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Found 9 results

  1. I am researching the Canon TS-E 17mm f4 lens to use for architecture. I would be interested to get some feedback from anyone using this lens with either the Metabones or Sigma adapters on either an A7ii or A7Rii body. Are there any functional issues affecting manual focus particularly focus peaking and focus assist magnification? Is there any loss of sharpness? Does auto exposure work correctly? I would really appreciate hearing from people with first hand experience of using this lens with either of these adapters. Many thanks.
  2. Dear friends, I have now had the 70-400 and the LA-EA4 adapter for more than two months and have managed to cope with erratic focusing on garden birds somehow or other. One great thing using this adapter is that the spot focusing is much smaller than the standard one and let's you pinpoint be birds head more precisely and that I love. With the standard 70-200 f4 I could focus much quicker, but many times it either focused on a branch or the legs and body, leaving the head and eyes out of focus. Lately however I've seen many comments about how much better the simpler LA-EA3 works with the newish A7RII, since it used all the more than 300 focus points plus other benefits that the camera could use on these lenses. The thing is I purchased the EA3 and tried it as soon as I laid my hands on it. Shooting garden birds from a feeder and at 400 mm (which is what I mostly do), and at about 5 m (16 feet) distance, I immediately noticed that focusing was much harder, sluggish and the lens kept hunting backwards and forwards most of the time. I have the camera set for obvious reasons at spot focus small, so I guess the 300 or so remaining focus points do nothing to help me focus, so I asked myself what was the point.... I then tried all sorts of settings to see if I could improve the focusing, even trying phase and contrast detect (contrast being a NO-NO), so now I find myself at a crossroads where I' wondering if I should return the EA3 or try and follow your suggestions on how to improve the focus with it. One thing is VERY clear; if I reinstall the LA-EA4, in the case I'm explaining here, it seems almost instant focus compared to the EA3. What do you suggest I do? I only have this zoom lens that fits both my adapters, since all my other lenses are FE mount and right now I have run out of ideas.... Have read all that Brian Smith says about adapters and was one of the main reasons for making this purchase (http://briansmith.com/sony-a7-a7r-lens-mount-adapters/) Best regards, Spanish Flyer PS.: The camera already has the 3.2.0 firmware
  3. I am considering purchasing the Sigma 12-24mm f/4 and 35 1.4 DG HSM Art Lens for use on my Sony A7RII. Any thoughts on purchasing Canon version and using Metabones adapter vs Sigma version with Sigma MC-11 adapter? I have used the Metabones/Canon combination with my Canon L lenses. Any one with experience using the Sigma/Sigma MC-11? I am thinking of selling my set of Canon 16-35L 1.2II, 24-70L 2.8II, 50L 1.2, and 85L 1.2II lenses. Thanks.
  4. I have an A6000. For the past couple of days I have been searching the web for a Nikon F to E-mount full function adapter (AF, Exposure, etc.). I see one for the A6300. Is the A6000 so different that they cant make them compatible? Does anyone know if one exists?
  5. Just curious if anyone out there has ordered or plan to buy this thing. If it works, it will solve big problems for me. I have lots of Nikon F mount lenses I would love to put on my A7Rii and my wife uses an A7R. B and H is taking preorders. It's expensive ($400) but would save me buying a long telephoto lens. Any thoughts?
  6. In my latest Video i´m showing you that Face Detect AF is also working with Canon Mount lenses on the Sony A7II with affordable Adapters from Viltrox and Fotga and not just the Sigma MC-11 Adapter. This could be something that you probably didn´t know. Get some chips and beer and have a look! http://www.dsphotoblog.com/?p=1425
  7. Hi everyone, I just wanted to share my latest "discovery" in terms of lens adapters. I ordered a couple of these cheap (10$) "K&F Concept" Chinese adapters: http://www.ebay.it/itm/381090192977 There are other vendors that sell it, I just added the link to show you the picture, because many sellers don't put the brand name in the description so you'll have to check the pictures. They are extremely well made, quite heavy compared to the other cheap ones, and at least the ones I've got (Contax, Leica M and Minolta MD) have given me perfect infinity focus, a solid connection (no play whatsoever) and the focus scale on the lenses is reliable as well! Besides, they have a kind of uneven surface in their interior that's quite effective at cutting out reflections. I've directly compared it to another adapter that I modified with the same kind of flocking material used inside cameras, and the K&F stayed black while the flocking material showed some reflected light still. Hope this will help someone else that finds that asking 250€ for an empty metal tube is just plain insane. Yes I know, they have to be manufactured to tight specs, but so is a lens, and with a lens they usually give you the glass as well
  8. A lot of adapters out there, and according to many even the ones from big manufacturers, suffers from mild to severe light leaks if used under specific conditions: daylight, long shutter speeds (seconds), even more so if on a tripod (shooting handheld the hand often shades the lens a bit, and the shutter times will be faster anyway). Before rushing out to buy the latest overpriced Novoflex or Voigtlander model like I was this close to do (supposedly the only two brands that, IN THE LATEST MODELS ONLY, do not suffer from this) you could try my solution. The pictures* speak for themselves. The nice thing is that this solution doubles as a neck / wrist strap as well. If you intend to carry the camera with it, and not just eliminating the leaks, you will have to be careful how you tie the knots and be certain to use "paracord", a kind of rope that has a 200/250Kg breaking point and it is used, guess what?, to tie the parachutes. *sorry for the crappy pictures, I was in a hurry!
  9. NOTE: The above image was taken with the A7r, the Novoflex BALPRO T/S and the Schneider 100/5,6 APO Macro Digitar. I'm new here, so this is my first post. I'm a professional, shooting still life audio gear. As such, the image above is illustrative of the sort I take day in, day out. As such, AF, operational speed, body robustness, and a few other things that matter to most users, don't matter much at all to me. What does matter is LCD quality, Wifi image preview, linear lens resolution, lots of megapixels, and quick/repeatable magnification operation. The A7r nails most points. While I wrote part one and then part two for Fujirumors, the camera I used most for shoots was the Sony A7r. It provides great resolution and good functionality for a still-life studio. The shot above was taken with the A7r on the BALPRO with the Schneider lens. For macro, other than somewhat poor labelling, the BALPRO is stable and has excellent tilt fulcrums for enlargement and compact large format lenses and light medium format backs, or when used with a Sony or Fujifilm back. It vibrates quite a bit thanks to the A7r's shutter shock, but if you are using flash, it is rarely an issue. Slow shutter speeds can induce softness. I use it with three lenses: 1. Schneider 100/5.6 Apo macro Digitar (copal 0) 2. Fujifilm 90/5,6 EX Enlargement lens 3. Fujifilm 135/5,6 EBC in copal 0 As you may or may not know, I am an audiophile photographer that covers earphones and headphones and speakers and DACs and geeky audiophile events for major manufacturers. My clients are magazines, boutique shops, and both small and large makers of hi and low-end gear. I've yet to complete the 'fun' part of the review, showing the sort of image possible whilst hiking or on the street, the reviews quoted above do what I hope is a decent job of showing how the A7r and BALPRO handle. I have since purchased a Rollei X-ACT 2, which uses similar camera and lens adapters and from time to time use a medium format digital back with that combination of lens and bellows, or with a Fujifilm GX680. If you have any questions, please ask. Note: wide-angle large format lenses need medium format backs, or, if you are handy, a sub-20mm flange back adapter. My Rodenstock 47mm/4,5 lens will NOT achieve infinity focus with any mirrorless camera on any adapter I have used.
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