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thefsb last won the day on September 17

thefsb had the most liked content!

About thefsb

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  1. Rogue_odyssey is right that 4/24-105 is a good lens. But to give an alternative perspective, I'll tell a story. Very excited about the 4/24-105 announcement, I pre-ordered mine around this time last year and got it a bit later. I used it plenty over two or three weeks, and nearly every time I ended up frustrated and putting on a prime instead, or wishing I had brought a prime with me. So I returned it. It's a matter of personal preference. I guess I'm not big on standard zooms. I like my 1.8/55 and 1.8/85 very much and I like telezooms. I'd have all 4 telezooms if I could. But, your subject says "Best Image Quality" so, from your list, I suggest the 1.8/55.
  2. Do any shoe-mount flashguns provide a focus assist lamp that turns on with the camera AF when used on 7RM3? I'm especially interested in models cheaper than Sony's.
  3. DRO always. I see no downside. HRD never. If you want to develop HDR JPEGs in camera then by all means use it. I don't.
  4. Full frame will cost a lot more than APS once you've added lenses. Old camera models cost a lot less than the new ones. And good lenses range from $200 up. So without mentioning a budget, it's hard to know what to say. And your uses aren't very clear. "Mainly landscape"? People do landscapes at all focal lengths. Is the night photography on a tripod or hand-held? Spend some time looking at the photos you've taken with the Nikon, including metadata. What are you satisfied with, what do you want to improve, what new stuff do you want to explore, ..? That may help you decide your priorities. For example... couple of year ago, because I prioritized low-light, hand-held I chose FF even though I'm not big on shallow DoF. Then, because of my budget I got a used A7 ($850 at the time) and a used 1.8/55 (also $850). What Nikon model are you replacing and why?
  5. If you want a Sony APS E-Mount camera and that's what fits your budget then I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it. It takes great pictures and a skilled user can do really a lot with it. But since you are on a tight budget, I'd look for and/or wait for a better deal than that. They come around quite often. Only you can decide if saving $100 or $150 is worth waiting for. When I was looking for an A7 that I could afford, I'd check used inventory at Adorama and B&H a couple of times a day. That was a while back and the camera is now still in use by a friend.
  6. I would not imagine the 16-50 collapsible zoom as satisfying for cinematography. If you want a zoom, how about A6000 + PZ 4/18-105mm G OSS? Currently $1046 at B&H. Decent lens intended for video. Or for a fast prime Sigma 1.4/30mm DC DN is nice but has no stabilization. For stabilized fast prime, choose the Sony 1.8/35mm OSS. Either is in budget on an A6000 and over on a A6300. A6000 is a bit old but it is very capable in skilled hands and super value for money. I would not and did not hesitate to buy a used camera from a reputable dealer such as KEH, B&H or Adorama. When you're on a tight budget it can make sense.
  7. thefsb

    Eye-AF for Indoor Sports?

    Try it. Assign Eye AF to the button on your lens. I kinda doubt Eye AF will work well for tracking, which is what I'd be looking to use in your position. I also wonder if Eye AF is really critical for F4 at 105mm. DoF should be big enough for Face Priority to suffice. Shooting dogs that run around very fast and erratically is different but related. I use 7RM3 and 70-300. I usually use Lock-on Expand flexible spot AF Area Regist. to switch between Expand flexible spot and Wide with Custom key C3 AF Track Sens = 1 Priority Set in AF-C = AF And add Set Face Prty. in AF to that for your sport. See how it goes. When I started using these settings I was really pleased with the results. Mark Galen on YouTube has excellent tutorials on how to use the camera's AF.
  8. Are there any phone apps that connect to the camera and can access image files? Besides PlayMemories.
  9. thefsb

    Cannot see monitor

  10. Nice pictrue! I enjoy mine a lot too. Remember (and this is not a comment on the above shot, which I honestly like) that you don't have to use f/1.8 just because it's there. Don't become a yet another blur fetishist.
  11. thefsb

    Zoom for sports / BIF

    There was some good information in this thread that began before I got a 70-300 and ended after. The 70-300 is good. Some say that at 300mm f/5.6 it is not as sharp at the edges as other candidates but it seems fine to me. At f/8 it's nice at any focal. From a practical point of view, motor sport require fast shutter speed, probably also BIF. With either the 70-300 or 100-400 you will need good light or you'll end up with high ISO. You could get the 2.8/70-200 but, while it is a superbly versatile lens, it's a lot of money and you end up with extremely low DoF, which I find very hard to cope with. For motor sport I think you usually want more than a few mm DoF so f/5.6 and f/8 would be preferable. BIF is a specialty that's way beyond my ambition. Each option involves different compromises. What's best for you is hard to say. in any case, the 70-300 is worthy of your consideration.
  12. thefsb

    Sony A7rii blurry EVF

    So the diopter adjustment mechanism doesn't work at all. If it did, the blur of the EVF image would change. You'll have to get the camera repaired. What model is it?
  13. thefsb

    Apps for A7iii

    I think it's unlikely, for more reason than one. So whatever it is you want to accomplish, learn to do it another way. For example, that blurred could special effect can be had by layering multiple images shot over a period of time.
  14. thefsb

    Sony A7rii blurry EVF

    Yes, I understand. But you didn't answer the questions: Did it change? If the answer to 2 is that the image didn't change while adjusting the diopter through the entire range, then the mechanism isn't moving the EVF lens. If the answer to 3 is that the image changes while reorienting the camera then the EVF lens is loose. You're unlikely to be able to fix it but these say something about what might be broken.