VTC

I find a trip to the color wheel keeps me from fretting too much about color. If I see a repeatable trend towards a certain direction I fashion a preset that takes care of it forever more with a click. (Ever consider using a color target?)

Can't help with the motherboard issue but maybe you can help me with my hot shoe problem. Mine's loose. How the hot shoe fastened to the top? Found pics of the camera disassembled but no clear view of how it's fastened or the minimal stuff I need to remove to get to it. I assume there's screws that poke up from the bottom or the nuts have loosened. Use a Blackmagic Video Assist 5 on it and I can tighten to the socket but socket wiggles on camera.

If you're adventuresome and like living on the photographic edge... Do a 6 second 'bulb' exposure and change lens when shutter is down. Ten seconds if age or coordination is a factor. But let an errant finger poke, dislodge, or deform that delicacy and there'll be whole world of fresh Hell you'll have to deal with. Even using 'proper' skill and technique I'm amazed how easy it is for the sensor to collect gremlins. I suspect with the shutter closed stuff will still get into the leaves or cavity irrespective how diligent one is in the process. I get things so stubborn air will not dislodge them and resort to a wet cleaning. Such is life.

Need more info. 4K? How long before interruption? Card originally formatted in camera? Card ever checked for bad blocks, capacity, or R/W speeds? Shoot video test with native lens / no adapter pointed at a clock having a second hand. (Sometimes it's simple things. Two days ago. Same camera, operating with a remote to trigger record & zoom. Remote stopped functioning. No longer records video or zoom. Unplug. Plug in. Unplug. Plug in. Shutter release button on remote functioned so I knew I had connectivity. The problem? Card had but 1GB remaining. Insert different card and all was good.)

My experience is with a 7Sii but what I've discovered is that connecting the camera to the mains will not charge the battery (battery must be in the camera as it cannot be operated solely off the charger alone) faster than battery power is diminished due to camera operation. This could be what you're experiencing. Something like camera operating 99% from the mains and 1% off the battery. Eventually that constant 1% battery usage add up to a depleted battery with camera shutting off. Dual batteries in a holder plus connected to a charger will give you longer run times if my unscientific theory is correct. On extended shoots I avoid USB charging / power operation entirely. I use a dummy battery setup.

Looks like rendering artifacts from data thrown away. What was the original shot in? Do these conditions exist when looking at a SINGLE frame of these two areas from the unmolested / pre-exported video?

Yes. Watch video in a player. Select frame. COPY. Paste into photo program. You need to have video displaying at full size lest you get smaller image than what was filmed at. The image discussed here was pulled from a 4K shoot. (Camera developed a group of bad pixels in 4K but not in 1080.)

Same thing happened to me. A7Sii. No problem at first but 25 days later a pixel wonked out in 4K video mode. Not there in photos. Not there in 1080. Only showed up on 4k video. And here's beauty of BUYING LOCAL. Walked to the camera shop and exchanged it. Return/exchange date was close because it took me 2 weeks before I bought a lens before I could try out the camera. The 1st vids in 4K showed no initial problem so exchange/return before it's too late. Sending in for warranty repair on a 2 week old unit was never a consideration. There's no way I'd accept that camera if I were you. Others may not notice it (look for defect in top photo first) but once YOU know where the problem is in the image you won't be able to 'unsee' it. (Mine might have actually been a group of 4 pixels.)

Does it really need to be 120fps? There’s going to be a bit of crop on the sensor at that frame rate when set to 4K. Must be for some pretty fast hands. A smaller f stop / higher ISO combo will give a larger depth of field and mask any less than exact focusing mishaps. I’d do manual focus through the EVF. Have same camera and lens as you and what I’ve discovered on 120 FPS in auto focus you can see jitters in the footage as the camera does its focusing trick. You may not notice it as you’re panning but if locked in on a stationary object my eyes can pick up focus jitters. A minute version of focus breathing as it were. I shoot high frame rates manual focus for this reason. Do a test shoot on AF and see. The subject doesn’t need to be in motion for you to pick it up. Others may not notice it but I do.. I can only get reliable focus through the EVF. At times l also run with a 4” or 5” external monitor for focusing or framing so l don’t have to rely on the limited tilting of the back display.

I never plug in ANYTHING without using that doo-dad. The USB & HDMI are the most delicate connections and constantly have a monitor and remote trigger using those ports. When running headphones & external mic I always use 90° right angle adapters. The cables themselves have weight to them and going straight into the ports stress them vertically. With the adapters hanging down if either cable gets stressed it pulls free of the adapter.

What are you trying to achieve here, not record to the SD card directly & not have to transfer the files? There may be an encode bottleneck somewhere with the Elgato. A 6:07 clip recorded to SD card on my A7Sii weighs in at 2.35GB. An external Blackmagic recorder captures it at 5.46GB and the 2.35GB native Sony file renders out to h264 at 203 MB. That encoding removal of 90% less data in the h264 file is taking a hit for some convoluted reason. If you get the quality you need recording to both computer and card simultaneously ONLY then maybe you have to accept that limitation instead of wrangling about the 'why not' for days. Formatting the card after each capture is excessive. Just erase the file. Any M1/M2 memory settings are stored to the card, not the camera itself, and they get wiped out on formatting.

Would you actively search out a camera 'drowned' in water, be it fresh or salt, and buy it? If so go ahead for the next 'year or two' and take it with you every shoot. Maybe it will work. Maybe it won't. Imagine the elation when it fires up. (Or the disappointment when it doesn't) You now have the Sony A6000 brick model and don't stick someone else with your problem if your plan to "...get rid of it as soon as it gets functional" means you plan to sell it off. New A6000s are cheap these days. Used ones (and that's what you were using) even more so. Electronics don't heal themselves on their own. If you're merely a pedestrian / casual photographer then nothing's lost if it's unreliable at times. But if using it is your paycheck, I'd toss it as quickly as I would a parachute that sometimes opened, sometimes not.

Formatting destroys all custom settings, at least it does on a Sony A7Sii. I delete based on the date taken so my custom settings don't get wiped out. I've duplicated the custom settings file on the card to all my other cards so I'm not stranded turning dials and navigating menus after a card change.

Bullet point #4 under NOTE seems to explain this behavior for me... Only a value between -3.0 EV and +3.0 EV with the equivalent image brightness appears on the screen when shooting. If you set an exposure compensation value outside this range, the image brightness on the screen will not be affected, but the value will be reflected in the recorded image.

Woah, pardner. Hold them horses . That's what I'm doing until the advent of the 7sIII. The 7III is tempting but until I'm waiting for to see what the 3 brings to the mix. I don't HAVE to buy a replacement for the 7SII just yet but l don't want to go off prematurely and buy a video pig , comparissonly speaking.