VTC

Yes. Watch video in a player. Select frame. COPY. Paste into photo program. You need to have video displaying at full size lest you get smaller image than what was filmed at. The image discussed here was pulled from a 4K shoot. (Camera developed a group of bad pixels in 4K but not in 1080.)

Same thing happened to me. A7Sii. No problem at first but 25 days later a pixel wonked out in 4K video mode. Not there in photos. Not there in 1080. Only showed up on 4k video. And here's beauty of BUYING LOCAL. Walked to the camera shop and exchanged it. Return/exchange date was close because it took me 2 weeks before I bought a lens before I could try out the camera. The 1st vids in 4K showed no initial problem so exchange/return before it's too late. Sending in for warranty repair on a 2 week old unit was never a consideration. There's no way I'd accept that camera if I were you. Others may not notice it (look for defect in top photo first) but once YOU know where the problem is in the image you won't be able to 'unsee' it. (Mine might have actually been a group of 4 pixels.)

Does it really need to be 120fps? There’s going to be a bit of crop on the sensor at that frame rate when set to 4K. Must be for some pretty fast hands. A smaller f stop / higher ISO combo will give a larger depth of field and mask any less than exact focusing mishaps. I’d do manual focus through the EVF. Have same camera and lens as you and what I’ve discovered on 120 FPS in auto focus you can see jitters in the footage as the camera does its focusing trick. You may not notice it as you’re panning but if locked in on a stationary object my eyes can pick up focus jitters. A minute version of focus breathing as it were. I shoot high frame rates manual focus for this reason. Do a test shoot on AF and see. The subject doesn’t need to be in motion for you to pick it up. Others may not notice it but I do.. I can only get reliable focus through the EVF. At times l also run with a 4” or 5” external monitor for focusing or framing so l don’t have to rely on the limited tilting of the back display.

I never plug in ANYTHING without using that doo-dad. The USB & HDMI are the most delicate connections and constantly have a monitor and remote trigger using those ports. When running headphones & external mic I always use 90° right angle adapters. The cables themselves have weight to them and going straight into the ports stress them vertically. With the adapters hanging down if either cable gets stressed it pulls free of the adapter.

What are you trying to achieve here, not record to the SD card directly & not have to transfer the files? There may be an encode bottleneck somewhere with the Elgato. A 6:07 clip recorded to SD card on my A7Sii weighs in at 2.35GB. An external Blackmagic recorder captures it at 5.46GB and the 2.35GB native Sony file renders out to h264 at 203 MB. That encoding removal of 90% less data in the h264 file is taking a hit for some convoluted reason. If you get the quality you need recording to both computer and card simultaneously ONLY then maybe you have to accept that limitation instead of wrangling about the 'why not' for days. Formatting the card after each capture is excessive. Just erase the file. Any M1/M2 memory settings are stored to the card, not the camera itself, and they get wiped out on formatting.

Would you actively search out a camera 'drowned' in water, be it fresh or salt, and buy it? If so go ahead for the next 'year or two' and take it with you every shoot. Maybe it will work. Maybe it won't. Imagine the elation when it fires up. (Or the disappointment when it doesn't) You now have the Sony A6000 brick model and don't stick someone else with your problem if your plan to "...get rid of it as soon as it gets functional" means you plan to sell it off. New A6000s are cheap these days. Used ones (and that's what you were using) even more so. Electronics don't heal themselves on their own. If you're merely a pedestrian / casual photographer then nothing's lost if it's unreliable at times. But if using it is your paycheck, I'd toss it as quickly as I would a parachute that sometimes opened, sometimes not.

Formatting destroys all custom settings, at least it does on a Sony A7Sii. I delete based on the date taken so my custom settings don't get wiped out. I've duplicated the custom settings file on the card to all my other cards so I'm not stranded turning dials and navigating menus after a card change.

Bullet point #4 under NOTE seems to explain this behavior for me... Only a value between -3.0 EV and +3.0 EV with the equivalent image brightness appears on the screen when shooting. If you set an exposure compensation value outside this range, the image brightness on the screen will not be affected, but the value will be reflected in the recorded image.

Woah, pardner. Hold them horses . That's what I'm doing until the advent of the 7sIII. The 7III is tempting but until I'm waiting for to see what the 3 brings to the mix. I don't HAVE to buy a replacement for the 7SII just yet but l don't want to go off prematurely and buy a video pig , comparissonly speaking.

My slow mo always plays without switching anything. There have been time when I thought I was in HFR but really wasn't. Funkiness in the clipped highlight areas but this shows 5000 ISO, f4.0, 28-105 lens, manual focus. I suggest manual focus because, though you won't catch it on scenes with a lot of action, I've noticed on the CONTINUOUS FOCUS setting you can see the lens doing its focus dance be it ever so slight. Most wouldn't notice the minuscule shifting but I do and it bothers me. If you've shot 120fps on CF take a good look at the footage. Kodak 2393 LUT on this segment. https://player.vimeo.com/video/259804325

1 - It's suggested IBIS turned off when on tripod. 2 - 120fps Slow motion @ 5000 ISO (Ride frame grab.) 3 - I almost NEVER need to go above 5000 ISO on video. (Singer frame grab.) Everything this night shot 24fps, 1080, Sony S-Log 2, +2 stops, Fuji3513 LUT (Preliminary grading.)

Card reader. Definitely a card reader. Only time I ever hook the Sony to computer is for updating or tethering. File transfers are always via a reader but make certain you get one that allows WRITE access to file names. A Vivitar one I have won't let you alter the name or individually delete from card whereas a writeable version will. (You'll need to trash it then EMPTY the trash or else it still remains on the card. If you don't empty trash the next time card is inserted you'll discover it still in the trash.) The 'Yes' version comes in different manufacturer packaging but the guts are ALL identical. The $30 version is the same as the $7 one. I shoot to 128 & 256 GB cards and connecting the Sony having a full card would take forever.

Your films must be awfully boring if you're not imaginative enough to noodle this one through on your own if your only and ultimate solution is to throw the camera in the trash. Get a $10 phone holder. Attach to hot shoe. Set phone to selfie mode and the image on the phone is roughly the view the camera captures. Your rant suggests all your shots are locked down with you staring into the lens talking so once you get the initial framing established nothing will change and alleviates the need for a forward facing screen. Hit record, plant your butt on a rock, begin your static filibuster. (Glad I graduated the 4th grade. I'd hate to tackle this problem without an education.)

You're quite a pig there, fellah. (I'm NOT joking either.)

It's too much trouble to comprehend Sonys odd numbering system that seems to change on card swaps or image deletions and I can't imagine someone filling their drives with ambiguous and cryptic DSC0419 et al file designations. I'll place files in a folder named after the shoot (Pepsi) beginning with year then date (18-0106 - Pepsi) then batch rename files sorted by date/time created (001 - Pepsi). If I'm using multiple cameras I make certain their clocks are set correctly at onset and all files, even from disparate cameras, can be commingled without having to deal with different file range numbers each cam creates.