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Everything posted by keepcoding

  1. Definitely not a settings issue. I would immediately return it.
  2. I'm not the only one who has noticed a decentering issue with this lens: https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/62123171 Also 2 out of 2 lenses decentered, left side less sharp.
  3. Since editing my post is no longer possible, here some corrections: the photo above was taken at F1.4, NOT F2.8 for the mentioned test procedure, it is better to use the max. available aperture of the lens The decentering is also visible at F2.8, but is less severe.
  4. Hi I've had 2 copies of the Sigma 56mm F1.4 and both showed a rather severe decentering issue. The left side of the frame is quite blurry compared to the right side, especially between F1.4 and F2.8. Here is an example at F2.8, focused at infinity: Note that it is not just the edge that is unsharp, it is approx. 50% of the left side of the frame. I wonder if this is an issue with all lenses or just a faulty batch. Is there anyone with a good copy? If you don't know how to test your lens, here is a simple recipe: choose a scene that fills the entire frame with distant objects (should be several hundred meters away) set the focus manually in the middle of the frame (should be around infinity) set the aperture to e.g. F2.8 and take a photo now rotate the camera 180° and take the same photo again (upside down) without changing the focus compare the two shots
  5. It is totally normal to get grainy photos in low-light situations, even at ISO 100. No matter how good the sensor: where light is scarse, noise will be visible in the final image. In your case I would open up the aperture to at least F4.
  6. The kit lens is junk. So-so build quality and pretty bad optical quality. I would recommend that you buy a decent lens instead of the 16-50. And no, this is not a repeatable trend in general, I've never had issues with Sony lenses.
  7. So yes, there is already a screen protector on the LCD. But it is still better to add an additional protector while the screen is still scratch free.
  8. Again, the guy in the video is looking at in-lens stabilization of old (!) lenses. No doubt those will cause issues on a tripod. What I suggested is that modern IBIS systems should be able to handle a steady base. I did another test, this time 20 seconds at 200mm, with and without SteadyShot. And again I don't see any difference (see 100% crops below). I'm confident that I can leave SteadyShot on at all times.
  9. The 100-400mm has OSS, maybe that's the reason why it doesn't perform so well in your tests on the tripod.
  10. I just did a quick test: 200mm @ 1 second exposure, took several shots with and without SteadyShot. There is absolutely no difference on my A7III.
  11. Peak Design states that only 7 out of a million anchors failed due to wear. Doesn't sound like a real issue to me 😉 They sure take QA/QC seriously. Anyway, I've now ordered the updated anchors.
  12. Where do you have this from? I think it is not necessary to disable SteadyShot on a tripod. Current stabilization systems are very accurate and should be able to handle a tripod. [edit] Just found a remark in the Sony helpguide that says it should be switched off... intersting. Is there a test that backs this claim?
  13. I would recommend the Peak Design Everyday 5l. Should be just the perfect fit for your combo. The bag is very well made, comfortable to carry and easy to open. And best of all: it doesn't look like a photo bag that screams 'expensive equipment inside' 😉
  14. Thanks for the info. If I understand this correctly, then the ankors only need to be replaced if the camera eyelets have sharp edges. I think I should be fine as long as I don't see any wear on the ankor cord. The problem with the latest V4 ankor is the thickness of the cord. It is impossible to fit those through the eyelets of a camera. I'm keeping my V3 ankors...
  15. I would recommend to have a look at the Tokina Firin 20mm F2 lens. Excellent sharpness even wide open and very little CA and coma. The manual focus version is actually quite cheap. I had the 16-35mm Zeiss, not a bad lens but ultimately not comparable to a prime lens such as the Tokina. If you are after perfect sun stars, then I would recommend the Zeiss Loxia 21mm F2.8.
  16. The A7III has a full frame sensor. Paired with an F1.8 lens, the depth of field is actually much shallower than on the A6500. Just stop down to F4 and your problems will be gone.
  17. I would go for the 70-200, more versatile than the 90 Macro, equally good for portraits but better for events. The Macro lens is (obviously) better for product photography. So it is up to you to pick what you need more.
  18. Thanks! I took the photo in the Swiss Alps near the Aletsch Glacier. It does take some planning. You need to get as far away from the light pollution as possible and choose a night without moonlight and with the center of the milkyway visible.
  19. manual mode, aperture F2, shutter speed 25s, ISO 6400
  20. Well, for star trails (>1min exposure time) you can use pretty much any wide-angle lens, you should be ok with the kit lens. A better lens for astrophotography or landscapes is the Samyang 12mm F2, manual focus only but otherwise excellent. Takes some time to get used to manual focus, but I think it is worth the effort. Here's a photo that I took with the Samyang:
  21. Every week the same question. Thanks to Sony's stupidity. If you want 60p, then you have to switch your camera from PAL to NTSC mode: http://helpguide.sony.net/ilc/1450/v1/en/contents/TP0000227261.html?search=NTSC
  22. That's because your camera is set to PAL mode (European version). Switch it to NTSC to allow 120fps. Note that this will format the SD card. Oh, and guess what, your camera will greet you every day with a "Running on NTSC" message. This PAL/NTSC nonsense is really annoying, don't unterstand why Sony sticks to these deprecated settings. Other manufacturers (e.g. Pana/Oly) allow the user to just select the frame rate.
  23. After some delivery issues and a warranty replacement, I finally got my copy of the Tokina Firin. For those who are interested, I've posted a short review here: https://blog.keepcoding.ch/?p=3413 In short: It's a great lens, almost as good as the Batis. I am going to keep it.
  24. I would be interested in this comparison. Any chance you could share some samples with us? According to Jannik Peters, the Tamron 28-75 does not perform very well at 35/2.8. Corners are pretty soft even at F11.
  25. What's the point? Just press the shutter after 30min and you're good to go for another 30 minutes. Also, the camera will shutdown anyway after about 70min. or so due to thermal issues.
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