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About budboy65

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  1. I've had a chance to reproduce the issue. If this was video, you'd see the artifacts. Here you see noise. This is the worse I've seen shot at ISO 125 HLG3 settings.
  2. I’ll try to get some screen shots and post them. The noise is pretty noticeable especially when it a luxury home tour. To answer your question about ISO, since slog starts at 800 it starts showing up at the level. Gets worse at 1600, 3200 and really bad at around 5000. The issue more so is if I want sharp video on the Rokinon lens I have to set the it at T8 which means I have to bump the iso. Funny enough I tested Josh Yeo’s (YouTube - MakeArtNow) settings last night. These were specific settings he tested that made a lot of adjustment on a specific profile and I could actually pump the iso to over 25600 and 32000 and there was little noise, but it’s not good for daylight. So the issue really is that for run and gun style shooting that I do, I can’t take a chance when the sun comes out or the sun goes away and screws up the video due to a specific profile or settings within a specific profile. So just to be clear the a7rii shooting slog2 and the exact slog2 settings in the a7iii do not produce the same quality video. The a7rii is actually better and I thought the a7iii was supposed to be better.
  3. Hello All, Thanks in advance for your help on this. To start, I've been a sony user for a while now and up until recently thought I mastered my A7rii. I recently upgraded my system to the A7iii and having a great deal of buyer remorse. My primary reason for the upgrade is that the rii didn't perform as well in low light as everyone knows. Even the riii has the same issue and as I shoot a lot of interiors of homes, aircraft and luxury yachts, there are always very dark shadows. Having said that, between a Rokinon 12mm T2.2 lens. shooting slog2, premiere pro and neat video, I have been able to create some very nice video. With the A7iii, this is not the case. I am getting a lot of artifacts and color distortion in the footage. At first I thought maybe the lens, so I put on a Sony 16-35mm f2.8 lens (in Canada, plus$3000 lens) and I get the same issue. I've tried a Tamron 28-75mm f2.8 and again the exact same problem as the 12mm. If I set the scene, right now the test is in a newly renovated kitchen. White walls, and main cabinets are white. The island is a very dark almost black blue. In the corners of the white I get color variations and on the blue island you can actually see chunking almost really back banding with square blocks. The Stainless steel refrigerator is the same as on a bright day, you can actually see with the eye, almost a rainbow effect. And it's not just slog2. I've wanted to shorten my workflow, so I have tried Cine 4 and the new HLG specifically HLG2 and I get the exact same results. I've reset my camera twice and am on v3.0 of the firmware. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciate. Robert
  4. Hi LiveShots, Thanks for letting me know. I actually just updated my camera and new functionality, Face/Eye AF Set. I'm testing it on a 28-75mm Tamron F2.8 and a Sony 85mm F1.8. So at first, the way I interpret "Real Time Eye AF" is that it is constantly focused on the eye without actually pressing anything, so if the model turns away and back, it would automatically re-acquire the eye, but that only happens if you half press the shutter button or press the AF-ON button. So not how I thought it would work, it's still better than assigning a button. Maybe someone can explain why you only get face detection and not Eye-AF in video mode? If you're doing video interviews, wouldn't that be important? Thanks, Robert
  5. Hi Everyone, thanks in advance for your help. I have this amazing A7iii with eye af in photo mode but I’m missing something. Watching all the different videos showing all the amazing features that focus on eye af seem to show that there is eye af in video mode, but unless I’m in p, a, s, or m there isn’t a way to use eye af in video. The other question is do I have to continually have to hold whatever button is assigned (center) or is there a way to toggle eye af. Currently the only way to hold focus is using face detection unless I hold the center button or whatever the button is assigned to for eye af. Great abilities, but frustrated with this. I can’t see holding a button to focus on an eye while the camera is on a gimbal. Thanks again for all your help. Robert
  6. Not a problem, I was actually going to update my post. I've managed to work through noise removal and color grading. My settings are as follows: 24p -1/50th FF or S35 @ 21mm F9 Picture Profile 7 slog2 Autoiso 800-6400 Custom white balance Expose between shadows and highlights and use AEL Add 2 stops exposure compensation. Bring it into FCPX and adjust exposure. I bring the faintest peaks below 100 and if need be bring the shadows up slightly. Then I used Colorist III and adjust everything else. I bring the highlights, midtones and shadows up and adjust the curves to get contrast set. Then I look at color and enhance where needed. Once I preview it and it looks good and balanced I use neat video to remove noise and sharpen it. Comes out pretty good. Now the only problem is rendering and I'm on an older imac. I'm going to downscale to 1080p using sony catalyst and try the same thing. Hopefully I won't lose much detail if I stick to prores 422. Robert
  7. Hello pilsburypie, Thanks for your suggestions. I did some more tests and actually found a great article surrounding the A7S which explains a ton. I had been reading other expert comments and they all say to increase exposure, but correct me if I am wrong, I was assuming the entire time to increase the exposure with exposure compensation and not what you said, properly expose by increasing ISO. So I took your advice and increased my iso to 3200 and Voilà a much better image. I guess being a photographer I was thinking of ISO as a hinderence, but in video higher ISO is actually your friend. I also tried this in Full Frame and although not as good as S35 I was able to clean up my video very nicely. One other thing, I was able to shoot F8 which solves my issue when filming aircraft interiors. It's funny, but I spent 2 hours at the camera store where I buy my gear and no one could clue into what I was doing wrong., You did it with one simple sentence! Thank you for your help! Robert
  8. So I ran tests today and here are the results. All clips were shot at 4K, 1/50, ISO800, F8, +1 Exposure Compensation. The room had all pot lights on, and you can see the light coming in from the window so there is not a low light issue here. Tests 1-4 are at S35 at 16mm Tests 5-8 are FF at 24mm Please provide an honest opinion of what you think is happening. The PP1 Custom was setup based on recommendations by someone who has tested and says its the best setup and to me, it's up there with the worse like not even applying a PP. PP5 was also recommended if there is a lot of light in the room so that's why I used it. I did try PP6 low light and although it was colourful, it had as much noise as PP7. Also slog2 seemed to do the best at not blowing out the highlights like all the others. Also, I see no difference between S35 and FF
  9. MontanaVid, thanks for sharing your experience with the a7rii. I am having great results with photos and based on your comments regarding video wonder if I've got a bad unit. I'm saw so many great A7rii videos which reinforced my decision to buy the unit. I wish someone would come out with a testing procedure with exact settings so we can compare. To be honest, I vacationed in Brazil this past year and only took my $400.00 HX60V. As a point and shoot travel camera that only shoots 1080p I can honestly say it performed well. Low light video of Rio's Carnival was visible, but not as much as with this new $6000.00 camera with 16-35mm lens. Thanks, Robert
  10. Hi pilsburypie, I'm shooting at 24p. I can't really lower my shutter as shooting a home tour requires movement hence using a Ronin M. Check out this video https://vimeo.com/136749633. The videographer is in Toronto and I emailed him. Although he shoots in slog2 he told me not to as PP7 in the a7rii produces a lot of noise. Initially in his review, he dogs the A7rii, but then starts to love it when he shows his samples. I do know I'd have to get an even wider lens for interiors, but DOF is still an issue. Other recommendations to use PP5 for daylight and PP6 for night low noise, but when in Niagara Falls yesterday, I tried PP5 and everything was blown out. I'll perform some more tests, clip them and then post here. Thanks for everyones help! Robert
  11. I'm using the FE 16-35 F4 Lens. As I said, the obvious is to go to a faster lens, but for doing an home interior video, or the interior of an aircraft like I do, the shallow depth of field doesn't help, so I would have to go to at least F5.6. I then have to consider whether or not I shoot in FF or S35. If I shoot in S35, I am still getting noise, not as much, but now I am shooting at 24mm which I am losing much of the purpose of using a wider lens. A lot of the reviews I am seeing are with the lens that I have. The unfortunate part is unlike photos where the photographer actually shares their settings, videographers don't. Also spending over 2k Canadian for a Zeiss Loxiz 21mm f2.8 when only 25% or less of my business is video still doesn't help me. I'm more interested in potential setting issues, or potentially issues with the camera as to why I am having this issue. Thanks, Robert
  12. Hello Everyone, I'm hoping someone can solve my dilemma regarding a ton of noise in my video. I have tried to shoot in both FF and S35 mode. I'm moving a portion of my business into videography and looked at the A7Rii as being a great balance to continue 75% photography and 25% video capabilities. I typically shoot photography in full manual, but when required will shift into Shutter Priority mode or Aperture Priority mode when the situation requires. Yesterday, I tried to shoot a video of my home and to ensure I had enough light coming in throughout the home, I turned on every pot light I have. My camera settings, 1/50s shutter, aperture F4, ISO800, shutter priority, +1 exposure compensation PP7(Slog2) tried both FF and S35. Brought the video into Final Cut Pro X and could start seeing noise immediately. Reshot several times raising Exposure Compensation to +2 and tried ISO through to 3200. It just got worse. The amount of noise was crazy. I know that everyone will say to get faster glass, but when there are limited native options, and I'm not prepared to buy canon glass and an adapter as someone at my camera supplier recommended. I need to solve this before even looking at this option. If anyone can make some recommendations, I would be grateful. Thanks, Robert
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