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ebouwens

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  1. The bracket shouldn't be active if the drive mode is not turned to Bracket. It should be single shot in the studio. In the A7iii you change what kind of bracket you want ( or don't want) in the drive selection rather than in a different bracket type menu item. Once the bracket is chosen, use the rear dial to dial in different degrees of bracketing. I've never thought of bracketing WB, but thinking of it now, it might come in handy with mixed lighting, say a bride by a window with incandescent and ambient light very different WB. I'd still rather just do it in raw on a single file. Less trouble.
  2. Sorry if I'm a little dense, but are you saying the strobe is flashing some sort of pre-flash assisting the focus, or somehow tricking the system and emitting no light? Very interesting observation!
  3. I could not make the firmware update work with OSX El Capitan, but worked fine on another computer with more recent OS.
  4. Wonderful use of window light.
  5. Andy, Some things that have tripped me up with this flash: 1. Cycle the double arrow botton on extreme right of flash until the screen reads only "Slave" and group letter. I have mistakenly had this set at "RMT"and there will be no response 2. I've had the X1 trigger not fully engage the connections because i did not have it advanced far enough on the hot shoe. Make sure it's fully engaged. 3. It seems to work for me in either "Fill"or "WL" mode. Good luck!
  6. addicted2light, I really appreciate your ongoing contributions regarding adapted lenses. Have you had any experience using the Techart Pro adapter to give autofocus to manual lenses? I'm considering using the TechArt Pro on C/Y glass or using a LA-EA4 adapter for Minolta glass at the 200mm focal length for ballet dancers on the street. . My suspicion is that neither one will be completely acceptable for high speed AF, but if I have the dancers jump into the scene a consistent distance I may be able to get away with it. Maybe even with manual focus. . I'd appreciate your thoughts or if you know someone who has tried this.
  7. Gert, I've had some success establishing pleasing and realistic custom color profiles using the x-rite Colorchecker Passport for my Sony cameras. http://xritephoto.com/colorchecker-passport-photo You take a picture of the color chips in the lighting conditons similar to what you will be shooting ( Flash or daylight) and then develop the RAW files using that profile. It's pretty quick, but does require using RAW. I agree that XT1 was pretty sweet though for color tones. Struggled with some of the foliage/ detail in Lightroom though. Eric
  8. Thanks so much for your jewel of a website and careful evaluation of so many lenses. It would be hard to know where to start in the vast ocean of legacy lenses without your advice.
  9. Well, the big switch is underway.... selling Fuji and Nikon and switching to Sony Alpha.

  10. Yes, that's the comparison I'm thinking of. And yes, I suspect the light levels will be similar. As I will be using the a7rii, I should be able to dial the ISO up a little more and get away with it. Thanks for posting the picture, too.
  11. I am in the middle of transitioning from Nikon to Sony a7rii. Does anyone have experience comparing the native f4 lens versus adapting the Sony A-mount lens? I have read that the f4 is certainly not small ( just as big as the 70-200 f2.8 Nikon that I'm "downsizing" from) and softer at the 200mm range. I am hoping to find a lens that is optimal for low light theatriccal performance. shots. I would also consider shooting a 135/2, crop mode if necessary for reach. Size, price, and image quality are main values here.
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