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Bokehbobo

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Everything posted by Bokehbobo

  1. I have an a7rIII but suspect the manual that comes with your camera is organized much the same way. Check the last section (page 77 for mine) and you should find 2 graphics of the rear screen display followed by several pages of icons with descriptions. A dizzying array it is. Hope this helps.
  2. Absolutely correct about the use of RAW, though I would add that a little underexposure is recommended to avoid blowing out the highlights! Hard won personal experience.
  3. I too was out shooting the super moon with my tripod mounted a7rIII (firmware v2.10), using a 24-105 f4. In roughly the following sequence I turned off lens OSS and AF, selected M mode, dialed in speed and aperture, selected a specific ISO and using the left side of the control wheel to select 2 second delay for shutter actuation. Worked as expected. I doubt that the sequence is important and don't immediately see why the 2 second delay selection was not available for you. Wish I could be of more help.
  4. I agree whole heartedly with PHDX. While I have no personal experience with the Zeiss 24-70 I am very pleased with the 24-105 on my a7rIII, both my first Sony products after years with Nikon. The 24-105 focuses quietly with a speed and accuracy that belies it being a zoom lens. Build quality is not quite as solid or smooth as my GM lenses but at 1/2 the price who would complain? My favorite walk-around and travel lens.
  5. I see your time line point; however, after 50 years of handling Nikon SLR's, with the release button on the left, last year with my new Sony a7rIII was the first time I experienced the issue. I will learn and retrain and it won't happen again but it doesn't absolve Sony.
  6. Of course operator error may occur. It is for this very reason that camera designers strive to locate controls in a manner that minimizes such occurrences. Sony should have anticipated the problem described.
  7. I agree. While I haven't had your lens drop experience, I recently had a 16-35 2.8 GM stop communicating with my a7rIII. Turns out I had inadvertantly pressed the lens release button and the lens had rotated just enough so the contacts were misaligned. I was lucky not have experienced your misfortune! My previous camera was a Nikon D300s and it had the lens release button on the left side... a much better location.
  8. oh, and environmental conditions such as temperature, wet, dry, etc.
  9. It would be helpful to know what camera, do you use Sony batteries or after-market and what device is used to charge the batteries out-of-camera.
  10. My first thought: IF you have "e-front curtain shutter" turned on [camera 1 menu 14/14], then "anti flicker shooting" [camera 2 menu 4/9] should also be turned on. I assume that your menu references are the same as my a7rIII. This is because the fluorescent light is pulsing at 60hz or 50hz (depending on where you are) and the e-front curtain shutter is picking up pulses. The anti-flicker setting is designed for this very problem. HTH.
  11. As I had suspected will verify with Capture One's support. Thanks LiveShots for the reply.
  12. Does anyone here use Capture One Pro with their Sony? In the past year I moved from a Nikon D300 to a Sony a7rIII (loving it!) and am using Capture One Pro 12 as my RAW converter (the general version, not the dedicated Capture One Pro 12 for Sony). The reason being the dedicated Sony version cannot import my old Nikon NEF files. Would there is any observed difference in the Sony ARW files between the 2 Capture One Pro 12 versions?
  13. This might give more information about what to do, or not do, until the new firmware upgrade is issued later this month... https://www.dpreview.com/news/6318187411/sony-removes-a7-r-iii-firmware-version-2-0-from-its-website
  14. I agree with SnappyMilt. With that I'm mind I suggest a simple physical check: - Is the lens securely locked in place? Moisture and dust resistant lenses such as the FE 28mm f2 have a small rubber gasket along the rear mating surface that requires higher effort to rotate and lock into place. Weird stuff happens otherwise... as has happened to me with my a7rIII and16-35 GM lens. - Are the electrical contacts on the camera body and lens clean and physically undamaged? It doesn't take visible smudges of finger oil or such to cause communication problems between the camera and lens. Again personal experience. Of course the lens could be faulty, which could be tested by mounting it on another similar camera to test. Wish I could be of more help.
  15. Thanks for the follow-up. I use the silent mode from time to time and hadn't considered such a limitation. Much appreciated .
  16. Glad to hear. It does however beg the question of what was the problem and how was it corrected? 🙄
  17. I use the peak Slide (wider one) with my a7rIII and find it comfortable and easy to use. I usually wear it sling style (diagonally) and when correctly oriented the smooth strap slides snag free. I have 2 caveats: The robust design uses metal slide locks that require care to avoid metal to metal contact when stowing the camera with strap attached. While the anchor ink system works well it also is metal and quite close to the camera body. I observed some minor camera body abrading from contact with the back side anchor link. I ended up applying a carefully trimmed strip of black Gorilla tape to eliminate further issues.
  18. I'll preface my remarks by saying that I'm new to Sony and its lens options. I started with my A7rIII a few months ago and in addition to 2 Sony lenses (4/24-105 and 2.8/16-35) I got the Samyang 2.8/35 for street photography. I am happy with it primarily for its light weight, small size, good sharpness, bokeh and low price. Focusing is reasonably quick if not a tad noisy. Walking around with the camera held low and then quickly raising it to capture a fleeting moment is effortless and natural. The absurd lens shade aside it is worth serious consideration.
  19. There is no firmware update for the f4 24-105G OSS (SEL24105G) at this time.
  20. Well said Chrissie. A more technical but still illuminating (pun intended) article on LED flicker... https://www.archlighting.com/technology/leds-fighting-flicker_o I ran into the banding problem while taking stills recently at a museum exhibit that employed a variety of light sources, including KED's. Using the anti-flicker mode eliminated the banding. Going forward I will pay more attention to the artificial light sources in my shooting environment.
  21. Today we find ourselves awash in an environment of low energy electronic signal (wi-fi, bluetooth, near field, cellular, etc.) to say nothing of the subsidiary effects of the circuits controlling and powering these devices. While manufacturers generally do their best, standards are not uniform across different industries (think global market) making it more than a bit like the wild west out there. I'm surprised that the effects brought up by Paul are not more commonly experienced. Perhaps it is happening but largely ignored due to the sporadic, variable nature of the effect. I agree in part that the lighting and allied industries need to pay more attention but imaging device manufacturers also have responsibility for the performance of their expensive equipment in the real world. My gut feeling points to the electronic dimmers, which to my experience, are notoriously sensitive to electronic mismatch. Though identifying and resolving a mismatch between controlling and controlled devices can be a challenge, particularly when using different manufacturers. I will now kick my soap box aside. Still, loving my a7rIII.
  22. I have not experienced the problems you describe on my A7rIII but... as architect and long time photographer, I am curious to learn more about the LED lighting in your house. For instance I have light fixtures that originally were equipped with incandescent lamps, then over the years changed to CFL fluorescent lamps and now with A-type LED retrofit lamps (variety of manufacturers). Are your fixtures manufactured LED units or retrofitted as are mine? The reason behind my inquiry is that after changing my LiftMaster garage door lamps from incandescent to LED I immediately had problems with my hand remote intermittently not working. On a guess I replaced them with another brand of LED lamp (from my local ACE Hardware) and the problem immediately disappeared. The industry standard behind these lamps is not well defined and some are prone to significant amounts of RF interference. Bob
  23. Might be worth looking into http://www.promediagear.com/A7R-III-and-A7-III_c_126.html as well. Their L bracket can also be extended be to work with battery grip equipped A9, A7r3 and A73's. I asked them about mounting plate options since I have 2 tripods, each with a different size Arca-Swiss mount. They suggested buying their plate that would then mount on top of the off-size one. Then mount the L bracket. Might be a solution for other mounts as well.
  24. SGWD, I feel your pain... sort of😉. The Sony design and execution does require some getting used to but truth be told each system has its good and bad. Coming from Nikon the Sony shutter is wonderfully muted to me and yes the silent shutter lacks feedback but that is kind of the point. For me it was a leap of faith at first. The lack of time lapse is a concern and to that end I have ordered an Arsenal https://witharsenal.com device that does this and much more (its just now starting to ship so I will have to report back on this sometime in the future). Yeah, I agree that Play Memories, apparently abandoned by Sony, is if no practical use, though I did get it work. I was hesitant at first about the Capture One learning curve but found it less difficult than feared. Loving it now after using it to file, alter and archive about 5k images to date. Does justice to my Sony's RAW dynamic range, allows tethered shooting, and plays nicely with my new Sony lenses (sold my Nikon lenses). I say this because from what I've read maximum focusing performance is best achieved using Sony lenses and frankly, while expensive, the 3 Sony lenses I now have perform very well on the camera and with Capture One Pro (f4/24-105G, f2.8/16-35GM and f2.8/90macroG).
  25. When I got my a7r3 (after countless years with Nikon) I reluctantly had to move from Aperture and decided on Capture One Pro (Sony version costs $70 vs. $300 for the general version) for the RAW conversion, built in DAM and the ability to import Aperture catalogues (Lightroom as well, though I have no experience with that). I am not a fan of Adobe's rental approach and never seriously considered them, and was not enthusiastic about using DNG as a compatibility workaround. I'm very happy with the results I am getting using Capture One. Furthermore, since I extensively used the original NIK suite with Aperture, I am now delving into DxO's reissue of the NIK suite and am now testing round-trips from Capture One. Works very well so far though there is a notable file size increases since the return file is a TIFF. I'm going from ~82mb to ~120mb processed files using the a7r3 uncompressed RAW settings.
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