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michelb

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  1. Sad
    michelb got a reaction from Dennisspeaks in Sony a6400 Lens Hood   
    There appears to be no lens shade available for this lens. 
    Think of the lens as entry-level
     
  2. Thanks
    michelb got a reaction from Michel R in Sony adapter for Sony A3000   
    Oui, mais il y en a d'autres moins dispendieux comme:
     
    https://www.ebay.ca/itm/MD-NEX-macro-Camera-Lens-Adapter-Ring-for-Minolta-MC-MD-Lens-to-for-Sony-NEX-5-7/223502463447?hash=item3409c8f1d7:g:V1oAAOSwl8Vcy7kK
     
    ou plus cher mais de qualité un peu supérieure comme les Novoflex
     
    Un guide relativement complet sur quoi regarder:
    https://phillipreeve.net/blog/adapters-manual-lenses-sony-a7-series-guide/https://phillipreeve.net/blog/adapters-manual-lenses-sony-a7-series-guide/
     
     
  3. Like
    michelb got a reaction from Makeev in Sony adapter for Sony A3000   
    None of the above, You need an independently made MD/SR to NEX E-Mount adapter
     
    All of the Sony adapters you mention were for use with Minolta or Sony's A-Mount ( Autofocus) lenses
  4. Thanks
    michelb got a reaction from Alexander Balin in Strange photos of A6000/Zeiss Touit 32mm f/1.8   
    EFCS  stands for Electronic front curtain shutter. This was introduced to accelerate and minimize noise of shutter.
    Normally on mirrorless cameras, the shutter is open so you can view and focus. Just as you press the shutter, the shutter would have to close to prevent the light from hitting your sensor then open to expose properly, close again to control your exposure time and then re-open immediately so you would hear 2 series clacks ( one when the shutter closes and one when the shutter re-opens after proper exposure).
     
    With this new invention the closing of the shutter is electronic so it does not actually close physically since the sensor starts recording the image and the shutter only has to close and re-open in the same movement making only a single clacking noise.
     
    This is a good thing most of the time but if you look at your advanced guide for your camera, there are warnings of some situations where you may want to disable it. The warnings from the Sony Guide on the A6000 are:
     
    When you shoot at high shutter speeds with a large diameter lens attached, the ghosting of a blurred area may occur,
    depending on the subject or shooting conditions. In such cases, set this function to [Off].
    When a lens made by another manufacturer (including a Minolta/Konica-Minolta lens) is used, set this item to [Off]. If
    you set this function to [On], the correct exposure will not be set or the image brightness will be uneven.
     
    There has also been issues with some flash pictures improperly exposed due to this feature being enabled.
  5. Like
    michelb got a reaction from Wally The Confused in Grossly overexposed images using Nex-6 inbuilt flash.   
    Are you certain your Red-Eye reduction is not actib=vated ? It would explain the numerous flash bursts you are describing
    Are you certain your flash exposure compensation is set at 0EV ? It would explain the overexposure
     
  6. Like
    michelb got a reaction from Matt Goodlife in Minolta lenses on Sony mirrorless bodies.   
    All Minolta AF lenses will work wether they are branded Maxxum AF or simply AF.
     
    Yes the 70-210 F4 beercan will work
  7. Like
    michelb got a reaction from Matt Goodlife in Minolta lenses on Sony mirrorless bodies.   
    The adapter mentioned is for use on a mirrorless camera like Sony A7
  8. Like
    michelb got a reaction from Thad E Ginathom in Survey "What Sony Alpha Do You Have?"   
    Started with this ( my father's )
    Yes, separate meter and the little box besides it is a rangefinder ( to measure subject distance )
    Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content. Then after a summer job, i was able to afford this in 1973

    Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content. Just could not afford a real SLR myself. My father purchased a Minolta SRT102 with a MC Macro Rokkor 50mm F3.5 in 1972 ( this kit actually cost about 5 months of mortgage payments at the time) and i was allowed to borrow it around the house. Stil have it.
     
    Next purchase was a Minolta Maxxum 7000i in 1988 with Minolta's AF 28-85, 70-210 and 50 Macro.
    Soon followed by a discontinued Maxxum 9000
    I found the AF system somewhat missing in Macro so i later got myself a full bellows kit along a couple of MF bodies ( X700, X-570, XD-11 )
    Then a Maxxum 700si in 1991 as it came out along with 5400HS flash ( first with HSS and my intro to WL TTL)
    With the kids arriving and all the house chores, could not really touch new stuff until 2005 when i got my first digital camera,a Minolta Dimage A200 ( nice but so much slower reacting than a true SLR that i consider it was a mistake since a Maxxum 7D would have cost not much more. Then as i learned Minolta was going out of the photo market, i rushed to get one of the last Maxxum 7D's i could find since at that point i had 13 AF lenses. Still have it.
    News that Sony was introducing new digital SLR still with A-Mount got me reassured and jumped on a A700 in 2008
    Since then added A900, A77, then NEX-7 (to re-use my old Minolta MC lenses and bellows ) 
    Jumped again on A7r just as it was introduced since i can now use all of these Rokkor lenses in native mode.

    Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content. I also have a very complete flash collection dating back late 50's so i must be getting old since in my lifetime as an amateur, i have seen appear:
    TTL metering
    Auto mode ( A-Mode and S-Mode and P-Modes)
    Auto wind of film
    Sensor auto flash
    TTL auto flash
    Wireless TTL autoflash
    HSS
    Autofocus
    When i need to relax, i try all sorts of old equipment to see how it compares with today's stuff

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  9. Like
    michelb got a reaction from jtberg01 in No option for focus assist illuminator?   
    Nice, first time i see AF illuminator visible on a picture.
    Now of course the illuminator was not from the camera/flash actually taking the picture but from someone else's set-up
  10. Like
    michelb got a reaction from jtberg01 in Focus assist light on camera mounted flash.   
    Flash based "AF illuminators" can only be used on Sony DSLR/SLT bodies because these bodies use PDAF sensors separately from the imaging sensor. This is actually a pattern of lines projected that lets these AF sensors know which way to go and by how much to move the focusing mechanism to reach proper focus. 

    On the mirrorless cameras, there are no separate AF sensors that can use this so they replaced the Illuminator by what is called "AF assist light" but these are only on the camera bodies, and is just that, a beam of red light that tries to help the AF system find something to focus on but in no way tells the AF system either which way to go or by how much.

    Confusion often arises because the 2 seem to be the same but really are not. 
     
    Something to notice is that the AF Illuminator from the flash ( and all Sony flash units that i know) were designed for the A-Mount cameras that require a pattern to be projected from the camera or flash to help the PDAF system in those cameras to achieve proper focus even on a totally uniform surface ( totally white wall for example).
    This was derived from the Minolta AF system and even then some generations of flash units would not allow use of this AF illuminator with previous generations of cameras because the pattern did change on occasion from one generation to the other making them incompatible with previous models
     
     
    In theory, this should work with LA-EA2 and  LA-EA4 lens adapters coupled to an A-Mount lens since they use a similar PDAF system from the A-mount cameras but Sony did not implement it in Firmware which is a pity. I mention this because the AF illuminator is a lot less intrusive in both time and intensity than the weird AF Assist Light of the E-Mount cameras.
     
    By the way Sony's latest flash ( and only one introduced since the advent of E-Mount cameras) HVL-F32M does not even have the AF illuminator anymore. The red window at the front is now only for WL Control/Reception.
  11. Like
    michelb reacted to VTC in Disadvantages of Silent shooting, and shutter lifespan in A6300?   
    You a photographer or a 2nd hand resale shop? I've never understood this thinking. What a goofy idea to cramp your photographic style to appease some theoretical buyer who knows how many years in the future. By your logic I'd take no pics at all or forgo wearing a seatbelt and risk death just so some future clown could have a pristine camera or driving experience. You bought it. Damn it, USE IT. I never buy anything worrying about the 2nd hand market. I use things to their potential because it will eventually get lost, stolen, break, or get supplanted by better technology.
  12. Like
    michelb got a reaction from Z√© De Boni in Sony a99mk2 third-party lenses AF issue   
    Don't count on that, Sony will only fix issues when it concerns its own lenses.
     
    This is the danger of buying off brand products
     
    You can contact Tamron but good luck
  13. Like
    michelb got a reaction from Omorali in Does The Sony 55-200mm f/4-5.6 SAM DT Telephoto Zoom Fit The Sony A7?   
    You will also need an adapter like LA-EA3 or LA-EA4 since the lens is A-Mount whereas your camera is E-Mount. 
  14. Like
    michelb got a reaction from EvilTed in Firmware update fails   
    And make sure you are using the original USB cable that came with the camera
  15. Like
    michelb got a reaction from VTC in Focus assist light on camera mounted flash.   
    AF on mirrorless cameras is limited to a certain extent by its initial technological developments. No in low light it may not focus just fine since light is the first requirement to get any AF system to work. 
     
    It does not work in flash because it is not a light but a pattern being sent toward the subject. Each camera brand has its own pattern and even each generation of flash of  a single brand has evolved and often  makes it incompatible with the previous generation since the invention of this in 1985.
     
    For example, the 1985 Minolta Maxxum 5000/7000/9000 AF cameras had a single AF sensor and for this, the flash units from that generation ( 1800AF, 2800AF and 4000AF) were designed to emit a certain pattern. When they brought about the following generation of AF cameras in 1988 with 3 AF sensors, the pattern from the previous generation of flash units could not be recognized by the newer cameras so the AF illuminator was already being disabled when used with that previous generation of flash units.
     
    If you look at the examples from the link VTC posted, notice the long lines at the bottom of the lady's belly as opposed to the vey short lines on the man's shirt. This difference in pattern CAN NOT be recognized and used to assist in AF by non compatible cameras.
     
    Every traditional DSLR out there from Nikon/Canon or later SLT cameras from Sony use the traditional PDAF sensors built into somewhere in the viewfinder or mirror box and these can use the illuminator from compatible flash units. Mirrorless cameras can not and you are for now limited to the built-in AF Assist light. Even the newer Sony A99II does not have the Assist Light on-body but can take advantage of on-flash AF Illuminator because it has the PDAF sensors in the mirror box. But then it has the more traditional AF system from earlier SLR generations
     
    E-Mount Cameras were designed with on-sensor AF sensors ( contrast detection at first that would have no use for a pattern) and much later what is called on-sensor PDAF,  but this is a different technology and size and can not use the patterns emitted by traditional flash unit  AF illuminators
    And so on and now cameras have up to 79 traditional AF sensors that are built-into the viewfinder. ( God knows how many). 
     
    You are trying to use a Windows 95 piece of software or accessory with a Windows 10 tablet
  16. Like
    michelb reacted to OldNoob in No sharp pictures with A6000! Need help :(   
    Im going to have to agree with mtigo's suggestion
    Also as others have suggested is adjusting the noise reduction in RAW and not relying on the camera jpeg at High ISO images.
    I personally rarely shoot over ISO800 and almost never shoot over f8.
    It's to be noted also that shooting any aperture over f11 will negatively impact the sharpness on almost all normal and normal zoom lenses due to lens diffraction, (Telephoto lenses differ)
    Also make sure your "[Creative Style]" settings such as contrast and sharpness are not set too high. Over setting those adjustments will actually hurt your image quality. Try setting your Image "creative style" settings to standard and give it a try again.
     
    Here's an a6000 image at ISO100 f2.2

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  17. Like
    michelb got a reaction from Buzzard in Thoughts from people who know the A7r and FE 90 2.8 Macro   
    This lens is outstanding. sometimes in low light, AF may hunt a bit in Macro but since the AF/MF is touch away (Push/Pull in the focusing ring) it is a very easy lens to work with.
     
    The fact that it adds OSS to the A7r makes the camera that much better. I found myself taking close-ups at 1/30 sec and got sharper results than i anticipated. With this body, going up to 800 ISO is not a problem for noise and it helps a lot on the handheld shots. For walk-around, the focus limiter helps to prevent loooooong lasting AF hunting.
     
    See more handheld samples here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/55173440@N08/albums/72157667425271366/with/27719265180/
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  18. Like
    michelb got a reaction from ShotGal in Best wireless system for remote flash trigger Sony A7R 2 & A7S   
    Look here for list of compatibilities ( note there is always 2 options for each control flash). You need to click on each selection you make to see what options are available  like 2  or 3 groups
    http://mhohner.de/sony-minolta/flashcomp_setups.php#wireless
     
    With your set-up, you could use the F43M on camera being a group 1 where you could specify a lighting ratio directly on the back panel, and use the F43AM and F56AM as group 2 with different lighting ration for the both of them combined also controlled from the back of your on-camera flash. Because you have a F56AM which is the older digital protocol, you can not add a 3rd group. To do this , you would need to keep the F56 out of the equation and replace it by one of the more modern models that have this capability like another F43M or AM, F60M or 58AM or F32M or F42AM ( but i think these last 2 could only be used in group no 2)
     
    For light modifiers, as long as the little red window on your remote flash has some sort of view from the control flash, things should work. If this window gets hidden behind a light modifier, it may not work. Thus the possibility of using your Odin's.
     
    Odins would also work. I tested with similar units as you have and as long as they are for Sony. they work the same way they did with your A850.
     
    To use your F43M on an Odin remote, you would need a Sony ADP-AMA to mount on your remote.
     
    To mount the Odin trigger on your bodies, you would need a Sony ADP-MAA adapter. This adapter would also let you mount your older F43AM on camera for emergency use both as an on-camera flash AND as a WL controller.
     
    I have tried off-brand adapters that are less expensive but they are somewhat unreliable ( sometimes losing contact if angled with a flash on top and they feel wobbly)
     
    I have all of this and it works great except with un-chipped adapted lenses in which case even manual mode does not operate properly. See the picture in my post on the first page of this topic to show how far i went to test some of these.
     
    So with all you already have you are about 100$ ( for the 2 adapters) away from avery complete and with both optical and radio controlled remote flash system
  19. Like
    michelb got a reaction from ShotGal in Best wireless system for remote flash trigger Sony A7R 2 & A7S   
    Using a modifier with a compact flash is going to have its limitations. What kind of modifier did you have in mind ?
     
    The simplest would be with No trigger using only Sony WL compatible flash units ( Sony/Metz are those that one to mind first) using the built-in WL capabilities.
     
    A trigger flash like the HVL-F20M or F32M for simple no nonsense WL flash that lets the remote ( HVL-F32M, F43M, F60M or older inexpensive AM flash units ( HVL-36AM, F42AM, F43AM, F56AM, F58AM) or older units going back as far as the 36000HS(D) and 5600HS(D) by Minolta can all be used as WL remotes in TTL  and even HSS but these 2 control flash units contribute very little to total exposure since the flash they emit during the exposure is only sending the stop signal to the WL remote(s).
     
    For more advanced operation like ratio control or multi group usage again controlling ratio between groups of flashes, the HVL-F43M ( or F60M ) as a controller can achieve these advanced operations but then the older flash units mentioned above may get some limitations like only 2 groups( 1 group being the on camera flash) .
     
    I have used some of these in broad daylight and the system that is supposed to be good up to 5 meters (16 ft) from control flash to remote flash did not let me down. The only time it did was when batteries got exhausted in the remote flashes !
     
    To answer your question for simple and inexpensive: keep your HVL-F43M as a WL controller and get an  older HVL-F36AM or Minolta 3600HS(D ) which are the same flash ( i see some selling for around 100$ regularly but this is only good for TTL since the Manual function on this flash is somewhat limited)  and you can now control the 36AM in WL mode (and HSS as long as the head is pointed forward) and specify a ratio of lighting between your camera mounted 43M and the remote 36AM. If you intend to go to manual Mode flash, the HVL-F56AM or Minolta 5600HS(D) which are also the same, have a little more power and offer more versatile manual power settings.
     
    Looking at your signature, this will work with all of your bodies provided you get an ADP-AMA adapter to use the 43M on your A850 or get a used HVL-F43AM that has similar capabilities as the 43M as a remote. This will also work with un-chipped adapted lenses which is something that often fails with WL systems by independent manufacturers.
     
    All attempts with other brand WL remotes has demonstrated weaknesses, incompatibilities, unreliability and this is why so many questions show up on that topic.
    How many of you absolutely need the range to be more than 5m /16.5 feet from camera to WL remote ? I know i have Odin/Mitros+ and these do not work at all with adapted lenses.
     
    Sony will be introducing a line or radio remotes soon but their price ( cost for 1 trigger and 2 remotes is about the price of 2 HVL-F43M units) and the fact they are listed as working only with the A7II series of bodies ( No A7, A7r or A7s) and only with the latest flashes ( HVL-F32M, F43M and F60M) makes these a lot less interesting.
  20. Like
    michelb got a reaction from ShotGal in Flash recommendations   
    The 43 will control the 56 in WL mode using the. Ctrl/Ctrl2 mode which is the old style WL protocol.
     
    Bonus with this set-up: you can even specify ratios between your on board 43 and the WL 56, therefore by spreading the power between the 2 units, you should be able to shoot a lot of pictures before changing batteries
    Another bonus is that as long as the 56 has its head pointed like it does in direct flash position, HSS will be available from both units but of course with reduced GN
     
    I tried it outside in direct sunlight ( 2 HVL-F43AM with A77) and the max 15 feet between on camera flash and remote was not a problem and the bright sunligth did not seem to affect the IR language between the 2 units.
     
    The fact that these are still compatible (the HVL-F56AM is actually the old Minolta 5600 HS(D) from about 2001) is quite an underestimated feature of these slightly more expensive units
     
    You could also use the 56 on camera using the Sony ADP-MAA adapter
     
    The 20 is only a very basic flash that does control in basic WL but no ratios are possible (same would apply to the HVL-F32M) and no HSS. This has a GN of only 14 when used in the normal position which is for a coverage of about 50mm only and in WL control, it does not really contribute to exposure (only the last control flash telling the remotes to stop lighting) is actually visible which is very very little light.
     
    Some will offer other solutions from other brands but compatibility may become an issue either immediately or later
     
    You should test your set-up before starting to shoot as the TTL system sometimes requires exposure adjustment in some conditions. My experience in daylight is about minus 1.5 EV for the flash control (this can be set in the camera using the flash exp compensation separately from the normal exposure correction). The 43 offers this direct on its rear dial but i am not certain it affects the remote flashes when this flash is used as a controller
  21. Like
    michelb reacted to Golem in Does Sony consider the A7RII camera to be pro? (rant)   
    Is a7R-II a "pro" camera ? The model number 7 clearly
    and unequivocally indicates that no it's not, and it's not
    being marketed as such.
      
    The a7 series bears the number 7. "7", in Minolta-speak,
    means mid-level hobby/enthusiast/amateur model. Over
    the years it's sometime upper mid-level, or not. The a7
    series seems to be "upper" which perhaps causes some
    folk to mislead themselves concerning the intended use  
    the a7 series. But Sony has been honest about it.
     
        
    ############################################ 
     
     
    Sony-Minolta, which now is called Sony, has been pretty
    consistent over the decades: 
     
    Number 3 or 5 is a casual-use or entry level model.
    Number 7 is the midrange, enthusiast amateur model. 
    Number 8 rarely applied, see below.
    Number 9 is the workhorse, possibly "pro" camera.  
        
    Sometimes there's a few zeros following the 3, 5, 7 or 9. 
      
    There has been the very occasional number 8. One was
    a hot-rodded "7", the other was a very slightly scaled back
    version of its corresponding "9". So "8" is ambiguous but
    the rest have been verrry consistent. IOW an a8 could be
    built either from the a7 platform or from the a9 platform.   
        
    ========================================= 
      
    Time will tell. The most recent precedent is the a850 and
    a900 nearly-identical twins. The older example was in the
    Maxxum era, the 8000-i being related to the 7000-i [there
    being no 9000-i in the "X000-i" lineup].
     
    The a7 series is a 7, not a 9, and Sony has therefor been  
    quite honest about what to expect from the a7 series.
  22. Like
    michelb got a reaction from Gilgenberg in Thinking of building a kit of MF lenses...thoughts?   
    I had issues with focus peaking also giving me unsharp results ( the varied from lens to lens since some were tack sharp and on others i just could not focus properly in spite of the focus peaking )
     
    Then i discovered the focusing loupe or magnifier ( this allows for fine focus at a specific area of the frame you can also pre-set ) and results are now 99% but it is still not for fast action shots. Practice makes perfect and i can now focus through the loupe pretty fast now using a custom button as the trigger.
     
    Then i got the FE24-70 F4 ZA and AF with this thing makes me rage . At a recent birthday taking candid shots, my out of focus results ended up over 50% in spite of seeing the focus peaking highligted. So i am beginning to enjoy my MF lenses with the focus magnifying loupe ( and single focusing zone too !)
  23. Like
    michelb got a reaction from molan in Can't Seem to MicroAdjust 24-70mm GM or the 85mm GM   
    Micro adjustment to my knowledge is for A-Mount lenses used on a LA-EA2 or 4 adapter only.
     
    There is a mirror in these that send the necessary image to the adapter's PDAF sensors which may diffract these portions of the image that are used by the sensors falsifying the AF position. The adapter in this case is the one to decide on AF position and lens movement.
    This was to correct for a design fault for all AF SLR cameras of the past.
     
    With on-sensor AF, this is not useful/necessary since there is no more possible wrong evaluation of the AF due to mirror/AF sensor position relative to where the image will be actually generated.
     
    The option to micro adjust is probably greyed out in your menu because of this
  24. Like
    michelb got a reaction from jucytec in Can't Seem to MicroAdjust 24-70mm GM or the 85mm GM   
    Micro adjustment to my knowledge is for A-Mount lenses used on a LA-EA2 or 4 adapter only.
     
    There is a mirror in these that send the necessary image to the adapter's PDAF sensors which may diffract these portions of the image that are used by the sensors falsifying the AF position. The adapter in this case is the one to decide on AF position and lens movement.
    This was to correct for a design fault for all AF SLR cameras of the past.
     
    With on-sensor AF, this is not useful/necessary since there is no more possible wrong evaluation of the AF due to mirror/AF sensor position relative to where the image will be actually generated.
     
    The option to micro adjust is probably greyed out in your menu because of this
  25. Like
    michelb got a reaction from addicted2light in Weird shadow on A7r with adapted long lenses   
    A7r does not have EFCS (Electronic First curtain Shutter) so you can't disable what is not there. I thought of that and this is why i asked about the body in use.
     
    Looking at the OP's website gear list, these 2 lenses are actually the longest in his arsenal ( longest after these 2 mentioned are MD Rokkor 135 and 100mm lenses.
     
    What is weird in this situation is that the shadow is actually the same from left to right in spite of the difference in brightness from side to side
     
    The only other thing that comes to my mind since the A7r has the pixels at an angle in the corners of the sensor ( to improve mostly wide angle lens performance since the light comes in at a pronounced angle ) is that it may do something clumsy like we see here with longer telephotos since these are projecting the light at an angle that is requiring more parallel pixels.
     
    Just tried my A7r with Minolta MD 200mm F 2.8 with cheap chinese MD/E-Mount adapter at F 2.8/5.6/11 and can not see any such "shadow"
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