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bbphoto last won the day on October 17 2015

bbphoto had the most liked content!

About bbphoto

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  1. I wish that was the case, but lens correction didn’t make a difference!
  2. Hey all, I've had this guy since it came out and am well past the new-purchase-overworried phase. I recently got the 100-400 GM though (which is great), and have noticed a strange bright spot (large--not sure if it could be sensor reflection) in photo center when exaggerating edits in LR. I know these edits are not realistic, but they well demonstrate something that I can't explain that I simply hope is not permanent sensor damage. Primarily showing up at 400MM shooting towards the ocean with sunlight elsewhere, but not close to the frame. The spot always appears right at center and of the same size--which leads me to believe its internal and camera-related. Any thoughts? Thanks!
  3. For what it's worth, and I've never used the Batis, but I've been loving the 24. Here's a few shots from my limited experience thus far...Incredible sharp wide open with lovely bokeh. You'll see a close-up of water on a watch face with the full shot as well for reference.
  4. That very well may be true. Or the combination of HSS with ECFS. Found this flickr group chat regarding another Godox product with HSS and an A7 camera: https://www.flickr.com/groups/71917374@N00/discuss/72157642684407174/ I'll have to use it without HSS or without EFCS next time and hopefully won't have the issue. I guess for most studio scenarios, I wouldnt need HSS anyway...
  5. I just tried editing the same shot in C1 and unfortunately it's giving me the same results. It's not the raw engine, so it must be either the sensor itself or the strobe/way i'm using the strobe. Hmm. I'm in the same boat!
  6. Thanks Jaf, appreciate it! I'll try normal sync first. Hopefully it's not artefacts...would definitely mess my workflow up a bit (using LR on compressed RAWs)
  7. Hey guys, I'm not a studio expert, and am struggling to figure out what is causing vertical stripes/banding on my paper backdrops when using strobes. Color or white, doesn't matter. I'm using the flashpoint/godox ad600 strobe with HSS turned on and shooting (in my attached example) at 1/1250th and ISO 100. This has happened to me numerous times now, and I haven't been able to detect a pattern yet. I haven't tried turning off Electronic Front Curtain yet, but will next time. It's only noticeable on paper backdrops (or maybe any plain surface), but not on my subjects. Any ideas? Thanks!
  8. So i've had the Riii since December 1st and am wondering why it seems to have worse shadow detail performance than my Rii had (or even my old Nikon FF 3 years ago?) I generally underexpose and bring out shadows, and shoot into the light. When doing so, such as in these two cases, I'm shooting at around ISO 100. See the attached crops below. One has some kind of weird banding lines that I've never seen before. The other simply looks horrible. Yes, the shadows were pushed a lot, but doing so comparably on my old rii did not cause quite the amount of visible artifacts. I'm shooting on the standard compressed RAW format, but that's all I ever shot with on my Rii. Anyone think this is a sensor issue or did they change something that altered its shadow performance in such a way?
  9. I've been debating whether to spend a million dollars on the Batis 85 and suffer moderate fringing and get decent bokeh or a bajillion dollars on the 85 GM and get great bokeh, little fringing and suffer only from some mediocre focusing. I ended up spending only $550 on a 135 f/2 manual focusing Rokinon. I've spent very little time with it so far, but I can say that the quality really is surprisingly good. It fringes (green/purple on contrast lines) noticeably less than my Zeiss 55 and Sony 28 wide open! The Bokeh is fantastic looking so far. A tad swirly like the Batis, but rather pleasurable and very smooth (coitus). Anyhow, there's definitely a learning curve and its not very forgiving even with the A7rii's internal stabilizer. I've also come to the realization that I have to shoot with EFCS turned off anytime I use the lens for over 1/200th of a second. Not ideal, but also not a big deal. Here is one single test shot for y'all. Pretty sure I shot it wide open at f/2 and at 1/800th. Full shot and a roughly 150% crop for sharpness reference. (:
  10. I would love to have been able to rent a Batis, but as they're also in low supply, my local provider didn't have any available. I've had a lot of issues with fringing with my A7Rii. It's actually the second copy I've had and has been sent to Sony Pro for an inspection (they simply cleaned the sensor and sent it back). I'm not sure why, but most people don't have this issue like I do. Everyone I've shown it to has agreed how severe the fringing is when used with any prime lens (Zeiss or not). Maybe my shop (Samy's of Southern California) does have a bad copy of the 35 Zeiss, as I believe it's the same copy I've always rented, but it's hard to say. I really wish I could use Sigma Arts, but have (with reason) always been hesitant to invest in an adapted setup. I also wonder how it might perform differently on the A7Rii compared to my old Nikon FX kit, where it performed flawlessly.
  11. I'll begin by stating that I'm not a wedding photography by trade. I shoot mostly commercial lifestyle and product professionally and landscape for fun. I've shot a good few event style jobs with Sony and back when I had Nikon, but this was the first wedding shoot on the Sony system. It was almost as if I was using a camera for the first time. I fumbled between the many prime lenses at my disposal (the sought after G Master 24-70 2.8 nowhere to be found) because I opted not to rent a second camera. I had a second shooter with two Canon bodies and delegated various things to him. What I brought with me for the A7Rii in my possession was as follows: - My 55 4/1.8 Zeiss (My favorite lens despite how long I have to spend de-fringing) - My 70 - 200 f/4 (which I didnt use as it's not fast enough...new 2.8 nowhere to be found!) - My 28 f/2 (which I used only during dancing and sparklers at the end of the night) - A rented 35 f/1.4 Zeiss (great bokeh, slow focus and horrible fringing on this body) - A rented Canon 85 f/1.2 with Metabones adaptor (insanely unreliable focus, softness, light leaks from adaptor, and notoriously horrible fringing) There you have it. I know I sound a little negative right now, but I'm only trying to emphasize the difficultly of said task in contrast to what I usually consider a fairly delightful shooting experience with Sony. I opted to stick mostly with the 85 and 35 rentals (silly perhaps) throughout the day and spend a great deal of time hunting for focus while my subjects bobbed about with the occasional calculated pose (thankfully). The camera encountered a deep internal error/freeze about 6-8 times while shooting with the adapted Canon and required about 15 seconds to turn off and back on. As you may or may know, turning the A7Rii on from a freeze often takes a great deal of time as it attempts to get itself back in order. I'm confident this was a Metabones issue. Not sure what version of its firmware I was operating, but it wasn't pretty. Sidenote: light leak from the adaptor could be solved by covering the sides of the adaptor with my hands (didn't have black tape available on short notice). The 35 Zeiss I've used before on several occasions. It's a pleasing lens with fairly slow focus as I mentioned above. My editing experience always proves to be a free-for-all of teals, blues, and purple variants--typically shades that Lightroom can't identify as fringing. Fun! Later in the evening this wouldn't be an issue, but midday and golden hour I spend a good amount of time shooting into the light with a plethora of lovely plants and trees scattered about my subjects. Once de-fringed, however, the lens delivers some great stuff. On par with the Sigma Art 35 roughly. Focus in general with the A7Rii (which is known to be lesser of mirrorless evils when it comes to this) is, of course, a bit of an Achilles heel. I depend on center focus to focus and re-compose as I've come not to rely on its otherwise abilities. With Sony lenses, the center focus bracket is rather large (is there a way to make this smaller and more precise I don't know about!?) when compared with Canon and Nikon DSLRs, so I'll often miss when trying to aim for a small subject at center frame. This leads to many mis-focuses in crowded environments with many subjects moving about. Another factor that made things difficult was how long the A7Rii took to buffer as I fired off large RAW files in burst (high speed of course because...well, I needed everything I could get). It would quickly fill the buffer attempting to write to my high speed cards, and when I went to chimp my shots I always had to wait a good bit until it was finished writing and could render a preview. I'm used to this (been shooting with the camera for 9 months now), but it was made painfully apparent during such a shoot. The large files rapidly filled up several cards (42 MP is certainly overkill for a wedding, but that's my choice). Exposure is another something I have trouble with at times. I find that the 35 Zeiss is a particular nuisance as it gives me unpredictable exposures when shooting on Aperture priority. I opted not to shoot manual very often as the lighting was constantly changing as we moved about the venue. I love the live-exposure preview feature of mirrorless EVF, but find that for me it seems inconsistent with the brightness displayed on the screen and a little too dark during daylight to get a feeling. In the EVF I could see details and the exposure looked nice, but when chimping on the screen (brightness turned up for day), highlights would appear very much blown out. I was shooting Ap-priority with my exposure compensation dial cranked to anywhere between (-0.75) and (-2.25) most of the day. Once back on my computer, I found that said underexposures did end up giving me typically slightly underexposed shots, but only by a small amount. I prefer this actually on the Sony, as I find that shadows recover more than its highlights in Lightroom. I think I have a good deal of great shots as I run through the catalogue, but there are likely a great deal less usables than if I had shot with a modern DSLR. Good thing i opted for that high-speed burst all day and had a second shooter! Overall, I love these cameras, I really do, but for professional use I really do think they should be giving those G-Master lenses away. Either that or these cameras ought to be sold for such a reasonable price that the G-Masters seem like a no-brainer. Really, I'm thankful to be able to use my Sony when shooting inanimate objects, landscapes, and slow-moving models. For scenarios such as this, I truly feel as if I entered a race and shot myself in the foot at the starting line.
  12. I find that my a7rii raw files have odd coloration in lightroom too. often times shadows come out very blue and warming the photo up will result in super warm areas that aren't shadows/blacks. i have to cut blue color out almost entirely at times. there are also many instances of purple and reds coming out in extreme amounts. I just downloaded and tried using raw digger and the resulting TIFF was so far different from the adobe file it's crazy. Way darker and warmer. I actually prefer abobe without a question. Not sure what to do at this point. May try CaptureOne..
  13. I find colors to be very peculiar on my a7rii. Sometimes accurate and often a bit wonky. I easily get the cartoonish, plastic look after a little manipulating in LR. All the presets that provided great results on my Nikon give me exaggerated and unrealistic looks on the A7rii. Even the A6000 remained more accurate. I'm trying Adobe profile now so will see if any difference can be seen!
  14. Awesome--hope you are enjoying (: That's some good gear you've got there!
  15. On a related note, with this camera I recently had an event where I was indoors and shooting in low(ish) light. I used my 70-200 at F4 and was able to get pretty sharp frames at 150-200mm on my monopod at 1/15 of a second. Not too shabby for just a monopod at that zoom. The IBIS works wonder with stabilized lenses.
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