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BlueBomberTurbo last won the day on February 23

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  1. 18-135 + 35/1.8 OSS for all around use. Throw in a Samyang 12/2 if you like UWA. And a bag with a waterproof cover, just in case. Which one depends on what type you prefer (shoulder/sling/backpack/etc.). I like lower end/midrange Think Tank bags (<$100) for bang for the buck. Great construction and features, and they have some mirrrorless specific bags that aren't huge like DSLR bags.
  2. Most likely an LCD cable issue, or a defective LCD, since it only affects the LCD. No setting adjustment can do something like that and not have it also affect the EVF or JPGs equally.
  3. Movie mode acts very differently from photo mode. It still renders the video while not recording, so it's ready to go at a moment's notice. You'll see the difference in the screen and color when starting a video recording in photo mode.
  4. The light means the card is being accessed. Keep it in, put a new battery in, and just let it run overnight and see if things fix themselves. If not, have you tried turning the camera on without the card inserted? Again, if the light stays on, just let it run. FW updates take time, and so does repairing/resetting the current FW. Though you won't get a progress indicator on that.
  5. Turn the camera off. Mash and hold the shutter button down with decent force. Not enough to shatter it into pieces, but much more than when you shoot. Move the pressure around the edges of the shutter button in circles. Try turning the camera on after 30 seconds of this and see if everything works properly If this works, get some of this: https://www.walmart.com/ip/CRC-5103-Quick-Dry-Electronic-Cleaner-11-Wt-Oz/16817418?wmlspartner=wlpa&amp;selectedSellerId=0&amp;wl13=2195&amp;adid=22222222227009475209&amp;wl0=&amp;wl1=g&amp;wl2=c&amp;wl3=42535874672&amp;wl4=aud-566049426705:pla-81197605832&amp;wl5=1022188&amp;wl6=&amp;wl7=&amp;wl8=&amp;wl9=pla&amp;wl10=8175035&amp;wl11=local&amp;wl12=16817418&amp;wl13=2195&amp;veh=sem&amp;gclid=CjwKCAiAkrTjBRAoEiwAXpf9CQDvxV8Qy1tI-wGGYGj5CfhOlpVAjpBCnrc2--UxK_iQttXQTVgHORoCpdwQAvD_BwE Remove the battery and SD card. Spray the cleaner into the gap between the shutter button and the on/off switch for 1-2 seconds. Let it soak in for another few seconds, then turn upside down to drain any excess cleaner. It's non-residue and will evaporate to nothing in a minute or two, but letting it pool up isn't a good thing, either (takes a longer to dry). Leave the camera to completely dry for an hour. Reinsert battery and card. If the issue is still present or comes back, repeat the spraying. Some people needed to do this twice for the issue to go away. I've read that this is caused from dirt or grease migration getting stuck under the shutter button, which causes it to push down very slightly on the half-press contact area (half-press and shutter have separate contacts). So the spray is used to displace/dissolve whatever's in the way.
  6. Set DRO to 5. Use Autumn Leaves or Deep Creative Style if available, and increase the saturation and contrast to your liking. I find that using the WB presets Daylight, Cloudy, and Shade, in the proper lighting, look fine for JPG. As it is now, WB looks OK. Might be a bit cool if you want to keep blue out of the shadows, but that's generally what it should look like in real life. Note that if you shot RAW, you'd have waaaaaaaaaaay more detail in the entire image, and you'd have a ton of flexibility to shape the image to however you want.
  7. Picture Profiles are set to meet certain video standards, but can be used for JPG photo, too. They're much more flexible than Creative Styles, as well, using Sony's pro video settings. If you want something similar to Canon color in Sony JPG, check this out: https://www.eoshd.com/pro-color/
  8. If you mean when recording video, change to Movie mode. It gives the preview in real time before and during recording.
  9. FF lenses won't be quite as sharp as lenses intended for APS-C. Wasn't as much of an issue back in the day with 8-12MP sensors, but 24MP is pretty quality hungry, being an equivalent of around 55MP FF.
  10. Check that electronic front curtain shutter is on. If not, the camera starts and finishes a photo with the actuation of the shutter.
  11. Even the A6000 was better. I had both, and the A6000 was cleaner with much more DR at low ISO, way better at mid ISO, and still usable at high ISO where the IV was mush. The A6300 is very similar to the A6000 up to 1600, then starts to pull away up to 6400, and is in a different league past that.
  12. The camera would need to be taller and wider to fit IBIS. It adds a substantial amount of size around the sensor, so it's possible it may not ever enter APS-C territory unless it is sized down.
  13. One review did say the dial had changed. Hard to tell from the pics. Same with the "improved" shutter button.
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