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BlueBomberTurbo

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BlueBomberTurbo last won the day on February 23 2019

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  1. Leeming LUT Pro. They just launched version 3 of their Sony LUTs a day or two ago, which has LUTs for both pre-and post-A7S III cameras, so they can all match. This includes settings for the cameras to work with the LUTs, and many different setups to use (not just S-Log).
  2. Event season is starting to pick up finally, so I have some extra $$$ to spend to expand my gear. My photo side is pretty well fleshed out for my needs at this point, so I've been looking to expand the video side. Already have wireless mics and off-camera LED panels from some on-tripod static videos I've been shooting (reviews/testimonials), but nothing for movement yet. Been looking at a DJI Mini 2 or an equivalently priced gimbal (wide selection I need to narrow down). Wondering which I should go for first. Real estate jobs seem pretty cut and dry: camera photos on the ground, drone photos in the air, and drone video everywhere else, so I was considering getting the drone first. I've already figured out hacks to substantially improve the DJI Mini 2's RAW images, so there's no issue on that end when lining up against my A7 III's IQ for real estate level IQ. Weddings pay more for video work, but in return, also take up much more time, and are mostly run and gun/spur of the moment for gimbal use. Both would require extra batteries and factoring in time to learn, both in handling and shooting. AFAIK, I'd have to pay for a drone operator license once I was ready to use the drone for pro work, but recreational/practice use doesn't require one. And in the end, I'll end up owning both in the future, as that will expand my usefulness to clients even more than just one. Just wondering how people who own one or both are doing pro-wise.
  3. 18-135 + 35/1.8 OSS for all around use. Throw in a Samyang 12/2 if you like UWA. And a bag with a waterproof cover, just in case. Which one depends on what type you prefer (shoulder/sling/backpack/etc.). I like lower end/midrange Think Tank bags (<$100) for bang for the buck. Great construction and features, and they have some mirrrorless specific bags that aren't huge like DSLR bags.
  4. Most likely an LCD cable issue, or a defective LCD, since it only affects the LCD. No setting adjustment can do something like that and not have it also affect the EVF or JPGs equally.
  5. Movie mode acts very differently from photo mode. It still renders the video while not recording, so it's ready to go at a moment's notice. You'll see the difference in the screen and color when starting a video recording in photo mode.
  6. The light means the card is being accessed. Keep it in, put a new battery in, and just let it run overnight and see if things fix themselves. If not, have you tried turning the camera on without the card inserted? Again, if the light stays on, just let it run. FW updates take time, and so does repairing/resetting the current FW. Though you won't get a progress indicator on that.
  7. Turn the camera off. Mash and hold the shutter button down with decent force. Not enough to shatter it into pieces, but much more than when you shoot. Move the pressure around the edges of the shutter button in circles. Try turning the camera on after 30 seconds of this and see if everything works properly If this works, get some of this: https://www.walmart.com/ip/CRC-5103-Quick-Dry-Electronic-Cleaner-11-Wt-Oz/16817418?wmlspartner=wlpa&amp;selectedSellerId=0&amp;wl13=2195&amp;adid=22222222227009475209&amp;wl0=&amp;wl1=g&amp;wl2=c&amp;wl3=42535874672&amp;wl4=aud-566049426705:pla-81197605832&amp;wl5=1022188&amp;wl6=&amp;wl7=&amp;wl8=&amp;wl9=pla&amp;wl10=8175035&amp;wl11=local&amp;wl12=16817418&amp;wl13=2195&amp;veh=sem&amp;gclid=CjwKCAiAkrTjBRAoEiwAXpf9CQDvxV8Qy1tI-wGGYGj5CfhOlpVAjpBCnrc2--UxK_iQttXQTVgHORoCpdwQAvD_BwE Remove the battery and SD card. Spray the cleaner into the gap between the shutter button and the on/off switch for 1-2 seconds. Let it soak in for another few seconds, then turn upside down to drain any excess cleaner. It's non-residue and will evaporate to nothing in a minute or two, but letting it pool up isn't a good thing, either (takes a longer to dry). Leave the camera to completely dry for an hour. Reinsert battery and card. If the issue is still present or comes back, repeat the spraying. Some people needed to do this twice for the issue to go away. I've read that this is caused from dirt or grease migration getting stuck under the shutter button, which causes it to push down very slightly on the half-press contact area (half-press and shutter have separate contacts). So the spray is used to displace/dissolve whatever's in the way.
  8. Set DRO to 5. Use Autumn Leaves or Deep Creative Style if available, and increase the saturation and contrast to your liking. I find that using the WB presets Daylight, Cloudy, and Shade, in the proper lighting, look fine for JPG. As it is now, WB looks OK. Might be a bit cool if you want to keep blue out of the shadows, but that's generally what it should look like in real life. Note that if you shot RAW, you'd have waaaaaaaaaaay more detail in the entire image, and you'd have a ton of flexibility to shape the image to however you want.
  9. Picture Profiles are set to meet certain video standards, but can be used for JPG photo, too. They're much more flexible than Creative Styles, as well, using Sony's pro video settings. If you want something similar to Canon color in Sony JPG, check this out: https://www.eoshd.com/pro-color/
  10. If you mean when recording video, change to Movie mode. It gives the preview in real time before and during recording.
  11. FF lenses won't be quite as sharp as lenses intended for APS-C. Wasn't as much of an issue back in the day with 8-12MP sensors, but 24MP is pretty quality hungry, being an equivalent of around 55MP FF.
  12. Check that electronic front curtain shutter is on. If not, the camera starts and finishes a photo with the actuation of the shutter.
  13. Even the A6000 was better. I had both, and the A6000 was cleaner with much more DR at low ISO, way better at mid ISO, and still usable at high ISO where the IV was mush. The A6300 is very similar to the A6000 up to 1600, then starts to pull away up to 6400, and is in a different league past that.
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