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About Langstrum

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  1. Yes I know it has limitation, but my point is demonstrating that the STF effect can be achieved. With the help of camera control, the apeture blades can be allowed to move while the sensor is being exposed and the technique can be applied under fast shooting speed condition. I want Sony to hear and put that to a camera, probably through firmware update. Minolta had Aperture bracketing to merge different exposures with 7 stops of aperture to achieve the same thing, but the application was removed. This method can be better since we need only one exposure, but it requires more advanced machine controls.
  2. Is that any keyword for me to start searching more details of this tool? I have no idea. I tested the effect at night, when I can shoot with longer shutter speed (5 sec) and the bokeh can be controlled more precisely. Here is the photo shot at f/1.2 (SLR Magic 35mm f/1.2 CINE) And here is the photo shot with "STF stimulating technique". At the start of the exposure I used f/11, and then rotated the aperture ring to f/1.2 slowly.
  3. I've just had an idea and I want to share with you. Since I'm interested in STF effect, I want to find a way to mimic it without using APD filter. Basically, to achieve the same effect, I have to block the light gradually from center to the edge of the iris. It can be done easily with APD filter, but what if I don't have that filter? Well, the aperture blades can do the same thing if they're allowed to close or open DURING the course of exposure (in normal way, the iris is closed or wide opened before the exposure). To demonstrate that, I used Helios 44 58mm f/2 with 13 aperture blades, so that the bokeh will be almost rounded at every apertures. I set the shutter speed to be quite slow, but not to slow to prevent shaking when I turned the aperture ring. I focused at f/2, and turned the aperture ring to around f/4 immediately after pressing the shooting button. I repeated that several times with the hope that some of the exposure can be synced with the movement of the blades. As the result, you can see that the two cases in between (f/2-4) show diffused bokeh balls, while the f/2 and f/4 images have more defined bokeh ball. The effect can be done much better if I can control the speed of the aperture blades. The best case is Sony or any other camera company can engineer the camera to control the aperture blades to let them open or close during the course of exposure. I want to suggest this idea with the hope that I can have STF mode on the camera in the future. For now, if you want to do the same thing in a more practical way, you can try slow flash sync and close down the aperture ring in the long exposure time after the flash is off. Do you think it's feasible to control in camera? PS: someone just told me that Minolta came up with the same approach long time ago but no one is currently using it.
  4. Hi, I'm trying to do continuous AF with Canon lenses using A6300 but I didn't success so far. I'm using Viltrox II and Yongnuo adapters for EF-S 24mm f/2.8 STM and 10-18mm f/4.5-5.6 IS STM. Even though for photography it's great, the AF works very well, but not with video. In video mode, they won't do AF if I don't half-press the shutter, and even when I do, it's very slow. Is this the problem of the camera or adapters? Thanks
  5. And it will work well with Techart Pro adapter that you can do AF with your Nikon lens. What you need is just Nikon F to Leica M adapter so that you can fit the lens on the Techart Pro adapter, and you need a tripod or monopod to support the lens from below. Even though Techart Pro officially said that their adapter can work with lens less than 700 g but I found that even heavier lens is fine as long as you can hold the lens and the body will move instead of the lens. I tried and successfully tracked actions using my FD 300mm f/2.8 L lens on my A7ii, with AF and IS, and it's an amazing experience.
  6. This one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Leicaist-Canon-FD-Lens-to-Leica-M-LM-Adapter-for-M9-M8-M7-M6-for-TECHART-LM-EA7-/162203345191 or get FD - Leica M adapter from TechartPro when you order the AF adapter. Or, you can get any FD - Leica M adapter (cheaper than the one they modified to fit TechartPro) and use a key file to modify it. I did that way and the adapter works well now.
  7. Canon EF 200mm f/2.8 L is a gem with excellent sharpness and it focus fast on A7ii/A7Rii/A6300 using common adapters like Commlite, Viltrox, etc.
  8. How about Voigtlander 12mm or 15mm, or even the new 10mm? They will be wide angle on both cameras and very compact for travelling.
  9. Be aware, this adapter quality depends on the copy, and some of them is very easy to be malfunctioned. Mine suddenly stopped working after 2 months and I can't do anything to restore it, even though I used the adapter carefully. I heard about 4-5 cases having the same problem.
  10. I got the same problem when I tried their method for changing the EXIF data on the focal length. Actually you just need to update the firmware (or again if you did already) it will work like normal. In case you don't know how to update the lens: turn the aperture to F90, shoot once, turn off the camera and use the Techart Update in your smartphone to update the firmware.
  11. I have most of FD glasses, only the best one, including FD 300mm f/2.8 L, 300mm f/2.8 SSC Fluorite, 85/1.2 L, 85/1.2 SSC Aspherical, 50/1.2 L, 24/2, 35/2 chrome nose, 100/2, 80-200mm f/4 L and my favorites are the 85/1.2 SSC Aspherical, and then the FD 300mm f/2.8 L, and 80-200 L, they're superb and can compete with modern lenses. But I suspect that the FD 200mm f/1.8 will take the first place, only if I can get it. I have EF 200/1.8 L and it lives up to the hype, the best lens Canon ever made.
  12. Yes, big improvement, now A7ii can work with most of my adapters, even the cheap ones. However some old lenses are still not fast and the accuracy is adapter-dependent.
  13. To me, the Saint Three lenses are, which I all have now: Canon EF 200mm f/1.8 L Canon FD 85mm f/1.2 SSC Aspherical Canon FD 24mm f/2 For travel, another set will be used: Samyang 135mm T2.2 Sigma Art 35mm f/1.4 Voigtlander 15mm f/4.5 or Samyang 14mm T3.2
  14. Sharpest? Just go with either FD 85/1.2 L or SSC Aspherical, even Contax 85/1.2 can't beat them. Jupiter 9 or Helios-40 are good choices too but you have to stop down a bit to be really sharp.
  15. You're welcome. Even though it's better to also including higher ISO test but it was in the daylight and normally I never go above ISO 1000, but this camera proved that I can go further!
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