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Aldowski

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Everything posted by Aldowski

  1. There were a lots of discussions related to the Steadyshot IBIS and OSS at Sony cameras, but for sure; both IBIS and OSS are used to have complete 5-axis image stabilization. Unfortunately, there were issues at the firmware level at the start of implementation (now fixed). Some of those issues explained at Sony community pages. The real value of the stabilization is clearly visible at the viewscreen (and viewfinder), using both types of stabilization with OSS lenses and IBIS body cameras, compared to, for example, manual lenses with IBIS turned off. The IBIS + OSS is not "magical", but it is really helpful, especially when photographing at lower light environments.
  2. It is similar; however, the utility I mentioned was created by German company (at the main view it has URL with ".de"), the look of application is different. I used that app years ago and, it helped to recover few large video files. As visible at this application Help pages, both have similar requirement, a must is to provide sample of the (working) video recorded by the same camera. Honestly, it's clear that there is no big number of good video recovering applications. Yes, I saw that VLC, which is more than just a video viewer, can be used for video recovery, I did not try it for the purpose. In command line, ffmpeg may be used for this, but it is not a simple way, it requires lots of "environment" settings and good combination of parameters.
  3. Sometimes, when talking with colleagues, some of them are, for example (when viewing photos), immediately saying about (slight) vignetting as "issue", even I do not consider that as an issue at all. There are even some photos when the "issue" is helpful. But, I strongly agree that leveling (horizons) can be checked (at camera screen, during photographing) and easily fixed, especially when taking photos at water surface environments. In postprocessing, there are utilities for "lossless rotation" issue fixing as well.
  4. During the preparation of the photosession, there may be a need for spending some time, for better organizing those files and folders. I'll just try to suggest change of the way of creating folders inside Sony menu to date form based names, instead of standard ones. It may be helpful and it's easy. Also, when I am planning to take photos with different (especially manual, classic lenses), I am creating more folders (at SDCard, of course) and renaming them on laptop to names related to lenses which would be used. During photographing, it's easy to change target folder where photos will be saved, based on the lens used. And, finally, there are Sony utilities at one and many other viewing utilities at the other side for reviewing, checking photos later. Related to Canon, have to say that it has long time traditional approach (similar to Nikon), which is sometimes good but sometimes it's standing on the way of new technologies to be adopted (example: mirrorless).
  5. There is an utility for fixing broken video files; at the moment cannot recall the name, but it should be not too hard to find, based on the process for video files recovery. The utility requires broken file(s) and one correct, working video file, created by the same camera, so it may take the necessary adjustments in order to fix issues. The utility is not overwriting the broken file with recovered one, but it's creating folder for saving recovered files.
  6. Already had 2 no-motors; no-electronic camera stabilizers and 2 gimbals for smartphones. Decided recently to find not too expensive gimbal, with good enough specs (including more modes), as portable as gimbal can be and, most important, strong enough to stabilize Sony A7ii with it's lenses (will use it with A3000 as well). Found Zhiyun Weebill S; bought it (already mount A7ii to it and checked that working), will try to spend some time checking capabilities, comparing it with those ones for stabilizing smartphones. I put this to the Video section as it may be most appropriate one, as gimbals are mostly (by far) usable for videos creation.
  7. Having Canon FD 50mm 1.8 and FD 35-70 F4; using both in Manual mode, of course, there is no electronic connectivity between lenses and the camera body. When used at Full Frame A7ii, the FL is the same as named, but at the A3000 (APS-C), FL is same as well, but lens is covering different sensor surface, image, light, is being dispersed to the and around the APS-C sensor. In some cases it may provide some benefits, as lots of FF lenses do have best sharpness at the center at the widest aperture, so the APS-C will take that best part, central part. And, again, the manual aperture ring at the lens is to be used, anyway, the camera software will create the F number by some default (as it's not possible to get it electronically from the lens), it may be "1", which is not showing the correct value.
  8. Not using A7ii, neither A3000 for videos (or to say, using it rarely), but, there are significant differences between those two (photos compared to videos), in terms of noise. For videos, I am using JVC camcorders, which are constructed, prepared for videos. Results are, to say, great. Have to say one (other) example, about Fujifilm W3 3D (bought it years ago, for both 3D photos and videos). What is interesting, I returned few cameras, till I got one with the (close to) none, inactive and dead pixels. Very strange, there are lots of users complaining about it, as photos are having some near pixels fix for that, but videos are having visible white pixels at the videos ()for example, creating video at dark room, shows all of them easily . Camera has 2X 10MP sensors and it has many options, but still, one or both sensors may already have or "develop" pixels issues, of course, not at the same exact place at the matrix. That shows a need for video utilities to fix that, so I used many of those, including Virtualdub (probably not the fastest, not the best, but works). There are two main types of noise and noise removal. Time (frames) based, which works by blending few frames together (specifically at the most noisy places, which are to be marked), that is (mostly) for the noise on dark, night, low light videos. For Fujifilm W3 3D, obviously, that would not work as the problematical pixels are at all video frames, same position. So, there is other type, blending pixels around, based on space, not time, to make the bad pixel looking as it's neighboring pixels, having similar / same colors. That solved the issue. If the noise is the first mentioned type; there is significant number of plugins, utilities for different programs, most important is not only to fix the noise, but to avoid blurring, desharping, defocusing as well, so the plugin needs to have some AI to achieve the goal. Again, for camera (photography) companies, seems that it's still much more important to work on algorithms for dealing with photos than with videos, it is, of course, not exclusive, but still, it seems to be that way.
  9. Have to make some update related to those macro adapters. Tested on Full Frame lenses, works as expected. I just made some tests using APS-C 18-55 lens (kit lens for A3000), with both macro adapters together (10mm + 16mm) at Sony A7ii. I changed settings at A7ii, related to APS-C Size Capture to Off, so, camera is not changing the image size to 10MP instead of 24MP. Zooming, moving FL from 18mm to ~50mm (looks it works best when zooming more), then making manual focus to the specific place. Even the lens is APS-C, and the camera is Full Frame, those adapters and zooming are repositioning FL and PoC (mathematically correct, of course) to avoid vignetting. Better to say, seems that there's no vignetting at all, photos crisp clear, sharp. And the APS-C lens are represented as Full Frame lens (usually, the only option to use them is to allow Size Capture to "fix" the Photo; which degrades resolution from 24MP to 10MP, as mentioned already). All three options for Lens Comp are set to Auto. Hope this may be useful for users having APS-C lens and macro adapters, trying to use them at Full Frame camera.
  10. The lens has to be Sony FE C 16-35mm T3.1 G Cinema Lens. 5.5K$+ Anyway, almost sure you found that already.
  11. Must ask, please, are you using adapter transferring electronical data from lens to the the body (I believe, yes, that should be the one)? Which adapter is it? I would suggest trying completely manual focus MF testing, without any autofocus, then testing with autofocus AF and then with DMF direct manual focus as well. Next step would be testing the different settings with AF, there is number of those, best would be to test as much as possible. Some of those settings are really great, can position the focus at some exact place of the photo during photographing, regardless of the contrast and / or phase based focus. Cannot be sure if the camera has some lens correction for focusing (recalibrating), but it must be written and explained at manuals. There may be even possibility to fix it in some relatively simple procedure.
  12. Recently, bought those two, clearly, very different vintage lenses. I did not have enough time yet to use thos a lot, just made few test photos. First one, Canon 35-70mm F4, zoom one, must say is having very strange rings, filter thread placements and movement. Not just unusual but more, it's somehow making problem when using filters, or when attaching hood (filter thread one), to the lens. I will have to make some hundreds of photos related, having in mind the reviews, telling the sharpness of the lens is great. Not the fastest lens, but, if the sharpness is good, it really has it's value. And seems, it has. Jupiter 21M 200mm F4. Heavy one. I already have the Pentacon 200mm F4, which may be very, very similar optically. Of course, for this lens FL, Sony IBIS, even being properly set ate Steady shot menu, cannot make some great magic. Tripod is to be used. Okay, I made few photos, probably, I would need more light, bright day outside, the definition of colors is looking good (color contrast), sharpness looking good as well. If someone would say that those are old lenses, not perfect, with many minuses, I would say that some of those lenses imperfections are making the images unique and less artificial-like. Some other also may say, those imperfections are providing specific lens-character and I would strongly agree. Both of those are F4, means, not very fast, anyway, already having number of those "slow" lenses, technically not advanced but with very good image results. I already put some Helios 44M images at gallery here and that lens is great example.
  13. Bought the lens few days ago; ordered it as new. It's far from being newest generation of Sony lenses, but, I saw that, this lens can help to make some good IQ; even there are some minuses described at reviewer's sites. It may not be considered awfully bad to have wired manual focus instead of physical one, or missing optical stabilization in the lens to be most important, this lens had both "minuses", emphasized at some sites and, at the same time, it's marks went down drastically. I went outside to the winter forest and lake environment, a bit of snow, lots of clouds and about -4C ~ 25F of coldness, which may not provide the best known conditions for perfect photographing day. Anyway, I made some ~200 photos, later arranged some time to take a look the FE 28mm F2 results. I did not use GND, ND, CPL filters at all this time. Colors are mostly grey, as that day was as well, cannot be colorful. Flares not existing as there was no strong sunlight. Finally, the sharpness and bokeh. Have to say that sharpness is very good. I made many (almost all) of those photos with F4 or 5.6, with ISO64 or ISO100. Seems that sharpness is documented as best at that aperture, I must admit, it's very good. Bokeh, good as well. Do not have lots of those images of the type which may emphasize the bokeh itself, but on those few, it is working well. It's not a "bokeh monster", still it's good. 28mm? Some discussions were (even) created to show that 28mm is not wide enough and not standard enough as well. And? Must say that some limitations by numbers are everything but helpful. When something is working nice, it's working nice. Put the "best lens" in bad environment using bad settings, it will not be good at all. Sony itself made 2 "add ons" lenses for Wide(r) angles, Ultra Wide Conversion Lens, created especially for this 28mm, which are adding the angle, and the usability. Also, internal software lens distorsion fix (there are also some other fixes too), when turned on, works good. Not saying that the lens is "the best" or "spectacular". Will use it in different conditions to see the "response".
  14. The best (and not simple) solution is to create very specific layered cover, which would have spaces at all places where buttons and switches are, l saw few (handmade) made exactly for the purpose, not looking very nice (to say that politely), but - working. After buying A3000 I did not have that issue at all (I did not have some good camera bag as well), but when A7II was bought, I bought very handy Lowepro camera bag, capable to take inside a lot, and, more important, I may place camera at different positions, so even, there was no issue about switching on or button accidentally pressed, I am able to find the best position of the camera inside the bag, which may minimize that possibility.
  15. What may be tried is to take the battery out, then try to press and hold shutter button (fully down) for 30; 60 or more seconds with the camera turned "On" (without the battery). Even, to repeat that few times. There is some "electronical" logic behind this, capacitors are to be empty. I had some similar issue with A3000; that helped. My A7ii has no issues with batteries, I am using different ones now, without problems. The only battery (used with the A3000) which was unusable (after years of usage) was Patona; it cannot be fully charged in any charger (I am having 3 different chargers) above 92%; and later, when used, percentage severely drops in few minutes to 20% or 10% or even 0%.
  16. Few days ago, I got Macro adapter(s) for E-mount Full Frame; 10mm + 16mm. Easy to mount; tried 16mm adapter today, with some tech stuff, phone macro, SD card macro, it's really doing what described; as autofocusing is enabled by electronics being connected thru adapter; at the first look, it's working nicely. Will try to test more, outside, taking images in forest, nature. Must say that I had already 49mm filter magnifier. Did not use it a lot, as it's image results are not perfect, still for some basic needs (just magnifying and tolerating images being distorted), it works as well. For smartphones, there are lots of those "adapters", Wide, Telephoto and Macro, most of them with very bad vignetting, many with optics far from being good, but still working. With the Macro adapters 10mm + 16mm, must say that Sony autofocusing looks (sometimes) a bit "confused" for few milliseconds, then it "makes" proper distance decisions. Images, finally, look good.
  17. Just a small question. Is there any possibility to have some simple zooming capability when viewing photos at galleries and images in threads. for example, to have (existing) Fit to screen / window option and additionally, 100% view (would be great to have some scaling zoom, but it may not be simple)? It would be great improvement. Thank you.
  18. Tokina AF 35-70mm f/3.5-4.6 Macro, saw it yesterday when buying some stuff in tech shop; checked visually, rings, optics, bought it. It's Nikon mount and I already had one (this one not in use yet) adapter to the E-mount. Already tested it on the A3000; of course, as the A3000 is not having IBIS, and the lens widest aperture is not optimal for some low light, I made few photos with bigger ISO numbers and shutter speed higher than 1/100. I'll try it soon at the A7II as well. So far, details and colors are looking nice.
  19. Previous years, Sony made numbers of good or better sensors for smartphones, which is of course, huge market, great environment for R&D to implement science to end products, where the number of customers is (almost) unlimited. Bought one phone with the Sony IMX586, more than a year ago, phone has fast CPU as well, using it only as camera. The sensor itself is complex, it's visible that it is created for specific use, it can provide different resolutions (pixels are "teaming"), also , it has technology inside to create HDR in the box. Most impressive was the video, which (especially when the central processor is fast enough) looking really smooth, stabilized. But, the ability of creating RAW images, to have very precise manual focus, to see "live" ISO numbers adapting itself to the environment light all the time (all of that and much more, using specific applications), simply confirms that massive production of sensors for smartphones is not just interesting or / and profitable, but it is technologically going very fast (result) as well and; it is not just taking camera (less DSLR or more mirrorless) sensors experiences as it was - one direction, years ago, but now it is two directions exchange of the technical innovations. Some photo results are spectacular, as focusing is performed using laser tech, very, very fast and precise. Again, massive production of those smartphones makes the quantity which develops to quality and those advantages will be (and are) implemented, of course, to the mirrorless cameras (which are not in massive use, number of potential customers is limited). Again, amazing (and sometimes even scary) results, from the box.
  20. Aldowski

    A7II Historical Sites

    Few historical sites, Sony A7II with 28-70.
  21. Yes, there is exact option for the focusing to the detail not being in the center, not being closest to the camera, not being "contrasty" enough as well, Focus Area -> Flexible spot; it's ("spot's") dimension can be chosen, and, most important, it can be positioned anywhere at the visible area. Requires some time to be managed, but it works. Learned this many years ago using the Fujifilm S2950, which has no manual focus, and this option is just exactly what I did need many times. BTW, still have that old camera, it can act as a great telephoto 18X zoom (28 – 504 mm); and (super)macro one as well (less than an inch distance). Sensor based stabilization! Anyway, most of cameras have similar or same processes to achieve solutions, sometimes, or many times the biggest difference is the name of the task, words in manual.
  22. Today, I put 4 photos to gallery here, using Helios 44M. New ones, I went outside, very nice weather, sunny, inviting. Made a bit more than 100 photos total, saw the strengths of the Helios 44M (with power of Biotar optics math inside). Using Graduated ND 8, sometimes incredibly helpful, to avoid vertical light balance issues (yes, I know that many are against the GND use). F4, F5.6, F8 used. Yes, lenses might be similar or same FL, but the character, nature of those, it's different. I got same question few times recently, why to buy other ones, if already have the native, Sony, AF, FE 50mm 1.8? The Minolta 28mm 2.8 one is different, it is reasonably fast, angle of view visible to the sensor is good, as related to it's FL. And, the 44M is providing some difference (when compared to Canon FD 50mm 1.8 or Revuenon mentioned here). Adding some vividness, photos are nicely detailed as well. It's telling image stories different, own way. Of course, not saying any of those lenses is the best one ever, greatest of all time, or so. It's just good to make photos with them.
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