Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by craig50

  1. 1. mf/af was secured and fully on af 2. It was 5.0 but I've updated it to 6.0 3. checked contacts and everything is fine 4. it was 5. subject (my daughter seated on stage) was about 40-50 feet away I shot this same concert a few months ago , same set up, same auditorium, same camera but used the 70-200/4. It performed perfectly. I've not had problems with any of my other lenses, so that's why I'm leaning towards thinking there may be an intermittent issue with the 70-200/2.8. I will be up in Indy Friday where I bought it, so I'll stop in the shop and talk to them about it.
  2. Troubleshooting time. I've had my new to me 70-200/2.8 for a few weeks but haven't played with it much. Used it at my daughter's concert. Several times, I would push the shutter to focus and it wouldn't do anything. No AF assist light, no beep, no nothing. Hit it again and it's fine. It would hunt a little here and there, but that's expected some (low light). Bought it from a shop used, so there's a warranty. Before I make that phone call I am going to do more testing and see how often I can replicate it. Never had this with any of my other lenses, so inclined to think it's the used lens. Any one run into this, specifically with the 70-200/2.8 GM?
  3. Was surprised my local shop has a Sony ZA 50/1.4 for reasonable. Seriously mulling it over. Guess what I meant b y the fact the Sig is a little dated is that it is a 7 year old lens designed for DSLRs and has been outfitted to work with mirrorless. There are newer designs out there, not necessarily better.
  4. Chill out dude, was just trying to help. No need to get snippy. I did look up A9 and while it's more immune to the effect, it's still susceptible to a degree
  5. I've got the Sony 20/1.8 and like it. Thought about getting the 24 but with my 24-70, it's a little redundant. I originally tried the Tamron 20/2.8 as it was attractive for the price. Noisy, slow to focus and alot of edge distortion. Dunno if that one was in consideration or not but thought I'd mention it.
  6. So, considering a 50mm. Unfortunately the Sony 50/1.2 is out of budget. Looking at the Sony Zeiss 50/1.4 and the Sig Art 50/1.4. Anyone have real world experience with either? Features and reviews of the Zeiss are appealing but it's a little on the high side. Like the reviews & cost of the Sig but it's a little dated. Thoughts?
  7. You have to play around with shutter speed as it's picking up the refresh of the lighting. Really E-shutter isn't good for sports as you can get distortion from panning or fast movement (look up e-shutter rolling). There's unfortunately no way around it as it has to do with the way the sensor reads the signal and sends it to the processor. It's not just a Sony thing, any camera with electronic shutter has this issue.
  8. Shot from the Indiana side of the Ohio river. Stack of 4 shots, 1/4-2 sec, f/5.6, ISO 100
  9. I have similar issues and a similar set up on my Sig 150-600 (native Sony, not adapted Canon). I can shoot at a distance in low light and nail focus on a color guard person twirling a flag or rifle and band member at a marching band comp but not get a clean shot on a sunny day playing hide and seek with a Great Blue Herron less than 100 feet away (and he's not moving very fast).
  10. I don't use UV filters. Yeah, they can offer some protection but chances are if it's enough to break the filter, it's gonna do some damage to the lens (I've had a lens tip over with a filter ad the lens was damaged anyway. UV filters introduce another element in the signal (light) path that can degrade the image. I had a once (twice) in a lifetime opportunity to travel 14 hours to shoot the northern lights a few years ago. Thank God I shot with two cameras. One was ruined due to the filter and introducing Newtonian Rings. That said, I do used filters on a regular basis when required, such as ND, polarizers, solar filters (I do solar photography), infrared filters, red filters for black & white work.
  11. There's also the Sigma 150-600. I have it and really like it. It's cheaper than the Sony and slightly faster.
  12. You wouldn't use the laser through the viewfinder. The laser would only damage the camera if you pointed it into the camera. I've used laser pointers in the past to help find deep space targets. Many observatories will use lasers also to help identify targets. Yeah, you don't want to shine a laser at a plane (it is illegal) but the chances of actually hitting a plane are pretty slim.
  13. I'm getting some strange behavior out of my a7r3. Menu options are changing by themselves. It went from single shot to WB bracketing. Also decided to stop writing raw to one card/jpeg to the second and just write jpeg to card one. Would using an OEM battery with an aftermarket together in the grip cause the camera to go bonkers? I've done that without issue with other brands. The camera is only a few weeks old and up to date on firmware. One would think it wouldn't need a factory reset, but that is on the table.
  14. I'm pretty much split 50/50 on that question. Crop or have the convenience of a stop faster. Wish it could be both. One other thing I'm considering is with the 24-105 and the availability of a longer zoom 100-400(ish), I could effectively eliminate the need for something in the 70-200 range (which is my least used lens in my non-Sony kit). I do alot of night photography but even then don't usually open wider than f/5.6.
  15. Question for the experts. I have an A7R3 and torn between a daily driver lens, Sony 24-105 or Sigma 24-70 (local shop is out of the Tam 24-70 so that's not really an option.) Both get similar reviews and are the same price. I'm used to shooting with a 28-75, but I've ran into times where I wish I had the extra reach. I've also ran into times where the faster f/stop comes in handy. Opinions?
  16. Up til how I've been a hard core Pentaxian, using a full frame K-1 & medium format 645z. The Sony A7Riii has perked my interest. 42mp full frame mirrorless, faster buffer & write speeds than the Pentax, much better focusing than the Pentax. Many features of the Sony A7Riii appeal to me I'm wondering how they do at night. I do a lot of night photography, long exposures, some astro (moon, milky way, auroras, not deep space stuff.) Also wondering about battery life as that seems to be a problem with many mirrorless systems. I've heard of the 'star eater' issues and wonder iwhat exactly that is and if there is a fix like turning off a noise reduction? Again, thinking and researching and hoping for answers. Please feel free to jump in.
  • Create New...