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  1. Like
    Alejandro reacted to tadwil in Sony 28-60mm f/4-5.6 vs FE 28-70mm f/3.5-5.6 and others   
    Perfectly understandable - American Greenback rules in most countries, not much different in Canada though without the 2 tier exchange rates.  Let us know when you have it and show us what it can do.
  2. Like
    Alejandro reacted to tadwil in Sony 28-60mm f/4-5.6 vs FE 28-70mm f/3.5-5.6 and others   
    I am not recommending either of the kit lens, the reviews on the web suggest 28-60 is a good lens how much better than 28-70 can't be seen without someone doing a head to head comparison.
    If you are buying your first native FE lens on a budget, the 28-60 seem like a good option and the price you have quoted for it, I am not seeing it in North America.  I have the 28-70, it was part of an A7II kit (very lightly used) with 3 oem batteries and an oem charger for basically the price of the body on consignment at a local camera store.  I don't use it much but it's always handy to have a native AF lens to grab for quick snapshots when needed.
  3. Thanks
    Alejandro reacted to michelb in Questions about the Sony HVL-F28RM speedlight.   
    I don't yet have the HVL-F28RM ( the only Sony/Minolta flash i don't yet own) and before you get into WL with this unit, you need to know the following:
    - After reviewing the online manual, it appears this unit will only work in the WL Radio protocol which is a totally different matter than the Optical WL that your HVL-F43AM and F58AM are designed for.
    - From what i can understand from that manual, only flash units that have their model number ending with RM will work in WL with this unit and as a WL remote will only work with either the HVL-F45RM or 60RM unis or M units mounted of the the Sony Radio controllers FA-WRC1M and receivers FA-WRR1 which is not the case with your present units.
    - As a controller on your body, the HVL-F32M would be just fine with your present units. Or HVL-F43M or HVL-F60M. HVL-F45RM and 60RM can also work but some fiddling in the custom menus of your actual units will be necessary.
    - Should you go out and buy this unit, i have one worry in that the size of this flash is very small and its flash head is much closer to the lens axis which could end-up generating a lot of red eyes in the pictures of people and this is why i did not rush to get it (awaiting to find a less expensive used one to try) a bit like the flash shown on the left of the following pic (Meike 320s) that was so close to the lens axis that anything with eyes would get weird color/artefacts in the eyes.

  4. Thanks
    Alejandro reacted to Pieter in Sony a7 ii or a7R ii?   
    There's no real need to downsample except to save storage space. Like I said: the 42MP image from the A7Rii will not look noisier than a 24MP image from an A7ii when viewed at the same size. So unless you're pixel peeping, there won't be any noticeable additional noise in the A7Rii images. The images from the A7Rii will look slightly more detailed tho when printed to the same size because it has more pixels to sample from.
  5. Like
    Alejandro reacted to Pieter in Sony a7 ii or a7R ii?   
    The A7Rii produces more noise per pixel than the A7ii. However, it has a lot more pixels. Because noise is more or less randomly distributed, it cancels out to some degree when downsampling a high MP image to a lower MP count. So yes, the images from an A7Rii will look noisier when viewed at 100% than those from an A7ii, but it is also zoomed in more. When viewed/printed at the same size (or downsampled to 24MP) the noise should be pretty equal between both cameras.
  6. Like
    Alejandro reacted to fatmarley in Sony A7C Green tint   
    Luminar has a slider that removes colour cast, and it works very well.
    When it's in focus and the shutter speed is high enough, the Sony 35mm lens is very sharp at f1.8. Here's one I took at f1.8

  7. Thanks
    Alejandro got a reaction from Kumar Nishit in Blurry pics in aperture priority mode.   
    Adding to what LiveShots mentioned, ......also, the longer the focal length being used (the narrower the angle of coverage), the faster the shutter speed for a shot ought to be in order to avoid a photo to end up being blurry because of camera movement.
    The minimum shutter speed value to avoid a photo ending up being blurry (because of shaking movement) will of course depend on if you are shooting hand holding the camera or using a tripod, on your pulse, and on the camera or lens having or not having some stabilization system, but also on the focal length being used.
    Say that under certain conditions, you needed a shutter speed of 50 or 60 to avoid a blurry photo because of camera movement if using a 50mm focal length, then, for a similar shot or conditions for a take, you will probably need at least a shutter speed of 200 if using a 200mm focal length instead.
    You probably knew all these, but I am mentioning it because what I am suggesting is that you could check the exif data of the photos that ended up being blurry to see if the resulting shutter speeds from shooting in Aperture Mode for those, were appropriate values in respect to the focal length used or on the contrary, not high enough to avoid the photos to end up looking blurry.
  8. Like
    Alejandro got a reaction from mirrorlessNY(youtuber) in Hi   
    Sorry mirrorlessNY(youtuber) for not answering before, I have just realized that you posted the question.
    For the time being since I bought my a7 (with which I have been doing some trial shoots but not that much relevant takes), I am loving it.
    I bought it (new) for about a fourth of what I would have needed to pay for a newer model. I paid 500 U$S for the body and the Sony 28-70mm f/3.5-5.6 OSS zoom lens (which for being a kit lens, performs quite well). Sony Store here in my country was offering them cheap and the money exchange at that moment helped as well.
    The sensor has no stabilization (the OSS lens has) and it may have fewer functions than the following models, but again, I bought it very cheap. And regarding functions, it has more than the cameras I already had (A230, A580 and Rx100) and a better sensor obviously, and I don’t mind not having the newest model of whatever I buy. Cameras will probably keep improving (as cell-phones do for example), and there is no way to keep up with the pace. If I would have bought an a7 III (paying four times more, which I wouldn’t have done anyway), then an a7 IV would probably be launched next. The a7 more than fulfills my expectations and needs (well...., not really needs) as it is.
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