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Benz3ne last won the day on June 17 2020

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  1. Agreed, they shouldn't have to. A camera isn't made to be thrown around. Fortunately, I've not seen/heard/smelled (lol) anything out of place since the tumble. The lens definitely took the impact and it is built like a brick sh*thouse so that was, relatively, fortunate. No error messages, no issues with AF, no issues with any buttons whatsoever, nor mount, nor registering lenses mounted, etc. etc. Again, agreed, it'd be costly but ultimately the lack of foresight/testing has the potential to result in issues like this. If, e.g., someone was to make a product, put it on the market and not consider that with repeated use a battery could explode (a la Samsung phones) it would be a costly recall/repair, but it'd be necessary. Yes, there's obviously a differential between people's health at stake and someone's toy at stake, but the financial burden is still there for the recipient in both cases. I think they need to issue some sort of response. Even if it's a "we'll check and if it's out of [insert specified] tolerance, we'll investigate further".
  2. Consider yourself followed (Benjour on there). The difference in results will be additional depth of field at a given aperture, higher ISO capabilities and, as you mentioned, dynamic range. The DR differences will probably not make a huge difference seeing as most of your shots are well exposed anyway, so having ability to boost shadows a little more or decrease highlights a little more won't be as valuable to you.The DR would be useful for your landscape shots, but you (again) manage absolutely fine without the need for it, plus you've always got bracketing in one form or another for reasonably static shots anyway. Being able to push ISO more is where I found the biggest difference going from APS-C to FF, albeit on Pentax before coming across to Sony. ISO 1600 on the K-70 was where I'd set my limit, with 3200 if I really needed it. On the K-1, and now the A7iii, I'd happily shoot at 2000 without much issue, 3200 is alright, 5000 is doable especially with noise reduction in post (through Topaz Denoise AI if Lightroom is struggling). For low light/B&W stuff I'll happily use 5000 if needs be. Yet to push it past that but have seen some reasonable results at higher ISOs (references unavailable sorry, not made a note of them)! Lastly, DoF. Again, it's nice for isolating subjects in the case of the odd flower photo you've taken but it's not something that can't be emulated to some degree through APS-C. i.e. shoot at a wider aperture on APS-C and you get more DoF, simple! For your longer shots it's probably not necessary to have it, because the DoF will be thin and you'd probably be shooting at a higher aperture for sharpness then anyway. Irrespective of all the above, you're VERY capable with what you've got - you could go for a FF and no doubt make the most of it, but you're nailing it with the A6400. The question above about 'where is your setup lacking' is the best question to ask yourself. Or wording it slightly differently, where is your current set up holding you back? If the answer is 'it's not' then no need to change unless, like me, you want new toys. The A7iv will give you huge detail given it's a 61mp sensor, but I think that's the only true benefit over the A9. I considered both but they weren't worth the additional outlay versus the A7iii which was a sweet spot for functions, cost and sensor size. 24mp is ample for internetting and medium-to-large prints so I don't need more.
  3. It'd be interesting to know what exactly has caused these fractures. If it's a case of a sudden shock, that will trigger people (such as myself*) to have their cameras checked out if they've dropped it at all... If it's stress over time, that's more concerning and wouldn't surprise me if there was push for a recall/repair scenario for affected cameras. *I managed to snag my camera strap on the drawer handle of a table which sent camera + lens to the ground. Damaged only the lens on the lens cap and outer rim at the front. Is an old Takumar 35mm to which a slight dent is the only obvious damage and the camera came away (very fortunately) unscathed. It's the first time I've ever put a strap on the camera, which I did 3 days prior to the tumble. Not fun.
  4. It depends. You'll probably miss the extra reach that a crop sensor provides. It's worth bearing in mind that on a crop sensor the 200-600mm is effectively, approximately, 300-900mm given the, again approximate, 1.5x crop factor. If you're happy with the quality of the shots you're producing at the moment, then I see no reason to change. The A9 would, however, bring the ISO capabilities of a 24mp FF sensor (as would an A7iii), some autofocus benefits and shooting speed benefits. Whether that's worth the £2k+ investment is really up to you. Perhaps see if you can rent/try one out and decide from there? (Disclaimer: Not a professional in by any means.)
  5. A great lens - I really enjoy mine... tempted now to get more. Perhaps the 35mm f/1.4? Or the new 75mm... hmm
  6. I was also going to mention the A7x's. 24mp is absolutely fine for me, image quality is great and it's more than big enough for any print I would ever want to do. Until then, I don't see a need for more. For what it's worth, I previously owned a Pentax K1 (36mp). It was nice to have that additional crop-ability but it was entirely unnecessary for every scenario I would use my photographs (currently).
  7. Yes, I agree that not knowing is what is frustrating but I've found basic internet searches to be helpful. It's worth bearing in mind that any camera can be amazing "but only if you know how to use it" to coin your phrase. I have always found that updating to the latest firmware can certainly iron out issues - I've always made sure that my cameras (previously Pentax K-S2, Pentax K-70, Pentax K-1), including my A7iii, have been kept up-to-date and have suffered with very little issues if any.
  8. Is it noise or general blur? If it's the latter, then it could be down to having steadyshot/OSS on while using the tripod. Perhaps try turning that off, if you haven't already done so, and see whether that makes a difference. Edit: I understand that blurry images wouldn't lead to a loss of contrast but it might still be a worthwhile avenue to explore. Otherwise, what JPEG/Raw settings have you set? Do you have it set to a single shot or timed mode for your photos, rather than Hi+ continuous shooting? Is it on compressed or uncompressed, or FF versus APS-C mode etc...
  9. I'm afraid I've not seen anything of that sort with my A7iii, though admittedly I'm yet to really try 4K on it.
  10. Lovely picture! I have followed you on Flickr.
  11. SHE'S ARRIVED! Can't wait to fire her up and try out some vintage lenses on it.
  12. Well, I shall when I receive my camera (today with some good fortune)! It should have arrived yesterday but the courier couldn't find my workplace, apparently... which is strange seeing as it's signposted, and all other buildings on site know where we're situated. I'll be sure to let you know how I get on, but it might be delayed. In short, I'm really looking forward to giving it a go!
  13. Could it be down to a lack of contrast shooting towards the sun or does it happen on occasions where you're facing away from the source of light also? If the camera is getting confused with how far the object is away (i.e. a lightly washed black versus a bright white) it might get confused as to where/how it focuses*. Do you think you'd get better results focusing on the interface between mountain and sea to have that contrast and allow a sharper 'line' between the two to be established? Otherwise, manual focus might suit better in this scenario. Only a hypothesis, no real experience with the issue you've highlighted, sorry. *I'm thinking along the lines of 'dazzle camouflage'. Contrasting white and black stripes can remove the distance aspect of an object to the eye. I know the same happens with Zebras and midges/flies. They try approaching, cannot gauge distance as the white/black/white aspect gives a lack of depth on approach, ergo land less often and bite less. I've heard of a study done on horses wearing zebra-stripe 'outfits' - the result was more biting flies landed on regular horses than those wearing the outfits.
  14. Is it an exposure issue or an embedded profile issue? Do you have any examples of how it might look on the rear LCD versus your computer screen? Also, how different is the brightness of your computer screen versus the rear LCD? When I was first starting off with post-process editing, I found that my photos were looking dark on my phone. The brightness of my computer screen was too high so I was inadvertently underexposing in post, so that is a potential to cause issues for you. Otherwise, do you edit photos in post much? If you're shooting in RAW the embedded preview is just that - you still have the freedom to edit, including altering exposures. That still doesn't explain the photos having the same profile as videos, but as a newbie here I'm afraid I can't advise on that aspect.
  15. Firstly, diolch! That's 'thank you' for having me on this forum. From Wales (next to England) and with an A7iii en route, which should arrive safely tomorrow. Have previously been involved with the Pentax community over the past two years, shooting most recently with the Pentax K1, and will continue to be involved there with my small selection of vintage Pentax/PK mount and M42 lenses. With that said, I thought it prudent to join in here so any questions/queries can be succinctly answered by you knowledgeable folk! I should also have a Samyang 45mm f/1.8 AF on its way to me before long too, following a trade with a UK stockist! Looking forward to seeing how much focus peaking/magnification aids me with the manual lenses, as well as trying my hand at video (I've managed to give a Kiron 28mm f/2 a clickless aperture so that'll be fun!). Lastly, is it just me or is it relatively quiet here? I've seen a huge amount of interaction in the Pentax forums but it seems a bit more sporadic here (just an observation, not a criticism)!
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