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  1. These work well. Keep the front glass dry or totally wet (underwater) or you will see water drops. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/937742-REG/dicapac_wp_s3_waterproof_case_for_mirrorless.html
  2. Shoot a photo. Is it sharp? If so, you are all set. Dropping or banging cameras tend to do more damage. Keep a lens shade on and even an UV filter to protect the front lens element. Lens shades can bend and absorb lots of damaging hits and save the lens.
  3. Are your set to Auto ISO? What exposure mode are you using? Looks like maybe the camera is seeing one of those bright round hanging lights and tricking the auto exposure to think there is more ambient light. Most likely adjusting the ISO rather than shutter or fstop.
  4. I noticed in your print setup screen, the portrait orientation size is checked. Your image is in landscape format. Also, try changing from your "Scaled Output" to "Fit to Page"
  5. The camera can write to both cards during capture. That is your backup. Carry a bunch of empty SD cards and shoot away. Editing and copying files as you describe is not a good way to backup your files.
  6. Here is just one way. Not recommending this product but showing the type of portable device. Other methods can use you phone /HDD in place of a laptop. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1381645-REG/seagate_stgu2000400_2tb_dji_copilot_drive.html Obviously, if your camera has 2 SD slots, you can automatically record each shot on each card. Btw, this is my preferred method when traveling. Carrying an extra memory device (HDD)can be a pain, as well as uploading to the cloud when abroad. Then take the backup memory card and simply mail it back to myself. Now, I you lose your stuff or get robbed, at least some of your files are safe.
  7. Do you get any proper exposures at any other settings? From the looks of this photo, its a hardware problem.
  8. Does this happen with a Sony lens? Might be the lens adapter. [AF Micro Adj.] >menu1>page 8 (FYI, doesn't allow any adjustment on Sony 24-70 GM) from r4 manual: The [AF Micro Adj.] supports Sony, Minolta, or Konica-Minolta lenses. If you perform [AF Micro Adj.] with lenses other than the supported lenses, the registered settings for the supported lenses may be affected. Do not perform [AF Micro Adj.] with an unsupported lens. You cannot set [AF Micro Adj.] individually for a Sony, Minolta, and Konica-Minolta lens of the same specification. ....On my d800 I had similar focusing problems as you described w your Canon. I also discovered the lens correction screen. Pain in the ... I'm still getting used to trusting focusing on a digital screen vs. a ground glass viewfinder.
  9. Elinchrome used to be finniky with other brands. Test your Yongnuo and verify that both strobes fire together. Take photo using both lights pointed at wall to easily see if one light didn't sync. If the Yong works, then you just saved about 1/3 cost of Elinchrome !
  10. Agree the first this to rule out would be to use a brand new camera formatted sd card. I bet either the card is too slow for the camera [ class 10 is good less is suspect ] or the jpeg gets written to card first and then while writing the larger raw --something interupts. Did you diddle with any other menu or buttons during the write? Did you shoot a burst and buffer is full??
  11. One more thing. The increased bit depth is very helpful when you are trying to pull out shadow detail or preserve highlight detail in a very contrasty scene. So if you have a fast enough computer and enough drive space, shoot big and you can always crop and downsample later. Upsampling or interpolation is not satisfactory.
  12. @ Chrissie - You are right in a continuous tone gradient is where you will really see the lack of bit depth. We used to see this as banding in the early days of digital images (8 bit 256 colors) . There just wasn't enough colors to accurately provide a smooth color transition as seen in a clear blue sky. Yes, each pixel has the ability to carry 16bits of color/density information. It is not allocated to a specific color. Splitting hairs though, remember the sensor has dedicated pixels for RGB ( Bayer pattern) but each will have a full 16 or 14 bit available. Also, in practice, keep mind your output device. Most color wet digital printers are 8 bit devices. So your huge files will be automatically downsampled by the printer. Some of the fine art guys using inkjet printers can use 16bit files. This higher color density will really lay down the ink. It may not actually be enough difference to see as those dots are very small and dependent on the paper used. So as mentioned, what you use depends on your intent. For example, a once in a lifetime landscape, shoot uncompressed raw. For fast zillions of images during a sports match, fast and jpeg probably is fine. @ Bernard0368 - Sony has a free software called Imaging Edge and Capture One has free Sony version to convert your files to Tiff or whatever.
  13. Answer: set [Live View Display] to [Setting Effect OFF]
  14. Unteathered in the studio with pc cord flash sync. Manual mode, fstop set determined by strobe light meter .... say f16 @ 1/160 iso 200. Viewfinder and live view is too dark to even see image. ( screen adjust brightness based on available light) I have to switch to aperture priority to compose shot, then switch back to manual to take photo. Any ideas? Many thanks.
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