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chardinej

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chardinej last won the day on March 19

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  1. You CAN use it but I would strongly advise not to. I would not use ANY brush on a sensor, not specifically designed for the job. The Visible Dust brushes have hairs that are especially tapered at the ends so that they develop a static charge when air is blown over them before use. In this way, the dust on your sensor is pulled off by the brush. I would not use a gel stick either. I have heard horror stories of residue from the stick adhering to Sony sensors (in this forum). Considering the cost of a replacement sensor, using a cheap brush not designed for the job of cleaning a camera sensor is a false economy.
  2. What lens and what f-stop did you use to show the spots? I was testing my system yesterday for spots on the sensor and noticed that with the 100-400 mounted on the a9 and zoomed to 400mm, the minimum aperture I could set was f57! At that f-stop, I was seeing spots or in the lens, not on the sensor!
  3. Just picked up the teleconverter and have been trying out on my Sony 100-400. The results are amazing with super-sharp images being made wide-open. I am not detecting any difference in AF on the a9 either.
  4. I have to say, I would never in a million years use a gel stick on any camera sensor. This graduated approach has worked for me over the last 15 years. 1. Use the sensor clean routine in camera, check if worked. 2. If no use a hand blower bulb, check if worked. 3. If no use Visible Dust sensor brush (either Arctic Butterfly or another of their brushes, check if worked. 4. If no, wet clean following instructions to the letter and using Visible Dust swabs and their cleaning fluid. This is not rocket science. If you think about it, a gel stick is not going to remove a spot welded to the sensor.
  5. What is the resolution of the image (pixels wide x pixels high) you are sending to the print shop (you can get this after selecting the image with cmd-i on a Mac and Properties on a Windows machine).
  6. Agree that a special sensor brush should definitely be tried before swabbing. Cleaning the sensor is all about a graduated approach from less to more invasive. I would not hesitate to use Visible Dust swabs and their cleaning fluid if the need arose and as a last resort. Just follow their instructions and you will have a clean sensor. On the topic of brushes, I find the Visible Dust stand-alone brushes a bit firmer than the Arctic Butterfly and therefore more effective.
  7. I would rethink back-button focus on the Sonys. It was useful for the now rather primitive DSLRs with limited focussing spots and abilities. With the Sonys it really is not necessary. For the odd time I have to lock focus, I have assigned a button for that.
  8. Another problem with Capture One is that it cannot handle large catalogues. To get around this they suggest you separate your shoots into multiple catalogues, say by year. This solution is untenable for me. I have a 90,000 raw image catalogue and need to search the whole catalogue at once. Lr allows this, and in fact does it blazingly fast.
  9. But the two cameras are very close in this regard. I have not done any rigorous comparisons. DxO has, and they come out very close on ISO performance (Sports Low light metric) and the a7RIII beats the a9 in dynamic range. They are both amazing.
  10. This is really nice. Beautiful colour and sharp. I would give more room on the left in the direction the bird is facing.
  11. Also very much as to do with the exposure. If exposure was optimal, then this image does look noisy. If you had to bring up the exposure, then perhaps it is expected. I have a a6500 and it is a great APS-C performer when it comes to noise.
  12. Given that raw development results do not vary hugely across software platforms, for me the deal breaker with C1 at the moment is the catalogue component. I absolutely need to be able to search across my whole catalogue and splitting it up into years or some other way, just makes no sense. I would give C1 a real try if I could import my 90,000 image catalogue from Lr, and have the same functionality.
  13. When dealing with active subjects, the only way to stop their action is to use a fast shutter speed. Why not use the ISO to get you where you want to be? The a9 allows this. I have the a7RIII too and it does not perform as well as the a9 in this regard.
  14. Set the a9 to Auto-ISO today just to try it out. I was photographing active subjects (small birds) and the light-level was so-so. Set the exposure mode to M and dialled in 1/1000s at f9- I had the 1.4tc on the Sony 100-400. This is the result. A beautiful female Red-breasted Nuthatch at ISO 25,600! I performed a little NR on the background in Lightroom but nothing special with the processing. Hope you like it.
  15. Depends on what you intend to do with the image. At 100% side by side, you would see a difference of course. The one taken with the 200mm lens would have a lot more detail. Printed small, or put up on the web, you would probably not see much if any difference.
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