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elgopro

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  1. This is most like because of one of two things. First, you may be shooting in RAW, but there is Compressed and Uncompressed RAW. Uncompressed RAW is usually about twice as the file size of Compressed RAW on Sony cameras. To change this, go on the same settings page of your camera you would go to if you were to switch the image format from RAW to JPEG (should be the very first page in your settings) Secondly, you might be shooting in APS-C/Super 35mm mode also known as crop sensor mode. This means your camera is using only part of your sensor to capture photos resulting in smaller image files (hence "crop sensor"). Both of these settings can be found on the same page of the menu. Here's a photo of it https://www.instagram.com/elgopro/ https://elgopro.myportfolio.com/
  2. First off, I'd say relax. You're are going to do awesome on your first official photoshoot! Remember that the emotional state you are in will reflect on the model and the photos you take. Now for the technical aspect of things, I wouldn't depend on Eye-AF on the A7Rii but you can program it to one of the custom buttons if you want to try it during the shoot (I set it to the AEL button). Eye-AF does work on AF-S but again it may flake on the A7Rii depending on lighting conditions, frame etc. Face Detection and Focus Area would be my two main tools in a portrait photoshoot. Start off using Wide Focus Area and if there happens to be a situation where your camera doesn't detect the subject's face (like shooting through an object or if there are other distracting faces/people in the area), then switch the Focus Area to Zone or Flexible Spot (I program the Focus Area to button C1 or C2 for quick access to that setting). By programming the setting to a custom button, it will allow you to be quick when changing the settings and help you stay in control of your camera during the shoot. Don't forget to shoot in RAW to produce optimal image quality from your camera. Lastly, set the ISO MAX to no more than 1600 for minimal grain and try to keep your shutter speed to at least twice as much as your lens focal length (ex. 50mm lens; 1/100 Shutter speed). Shooting in AWB is fine, but make sure to check and adjust White Balance when editing after the photoshoot. You got this https://www.instagram.com/elgopro/ https://elgopro.myportfolio.com/
  3. which teleconverter did you get? Model number?
  4. what do you mean that stores reversed?
  5. Took this last summer in SOHO, New York. Sony A7III Tamron 28-75mm 75mm f2.8 1/320 ISO 200 https://www.instagram.com/elgopro/
  6. Paypal doesn't usually care about proof of previous purchase. Why are they asking you to do that?
  7. Spent a few days in Chicago and it is just beautiful! Sony A7III Tamron 28-75mm 28mm f3.2 1/60 ISO 640 https://www.instagram.com/elgopro/
  8. I was torn between the two when I was buying until I decided to buy the Tamron due to it being cheaper. If you can get the 24-105mm for the same price as the 28-75mm, I'd get the 24-105mm. It also depends on what type of photography you want to pursue and will you be doing video too. This is my opinion on both... I've noticed the 4mm between the two lenses on the wide end makes a huge difference. If you plan on getting wide shots in general (Travel, City, Landscapes, Establishing shots for video etc..), the 24-105mm wins. Distortion is also noticeably better on the Sony. The 28-75mm seems to be a little sharper and if you plan on achieving shallow depth with a shorter range of focal lengths (Mainly Portraits and Medium Close-Ups), the Tamron wins. I'm pleased with the portraits I've taken with the Tamron, but if you're seriously into portraits or plan on doing professional work (Weddings, Graduations, etc...), I wouldn't settle on the Tamron. This video linked below by Max Yuryev helped me in make the decision in choosing the Tamron over the Sony (with a $400 price difference at the time) I'd get 2 prime lenses; a wide portrait lens (24mm or 35mm; f1.4 or f1.8) and a medium telephoto (85mm f1.8) for focal length diversity, maximum sharpness, and better overall picture quality. You don't have to buy both off the bat. You can start with one of them and work your way up until you can afford another lens. I'm starting to get into Wedding Photography and I realized how tough it is shooting in low light or even slightly dimmed lighting. Check 2nd video linked below for more details I haven't personally used the Sony but after traveling to California, Chicago, Mexico, New York and Dallas with the Tamron, I noticed it was tough getting a variety of shots on the go. I'll link some photos below Hope this helps! 1st-2nd and 4th-8th photo sets in the link below were taken with the tamron https://elgopro.myportfolio.com/portraits All photos were taken with Tamron in the second link https://elgopro.myportfolio.com/places https://www.instagram.com/elgopro/ Videos that helped me https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L-MoxfXAbsc by Max Yuryev (Skip to 2:11) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EQookYtenLo&t=5s by Chris Turner
  9. I've bought lenses with little specs of dust in the glass element. I don't think it's necessary to clean out unless it's affecting the image quality of your photos. If you really want to clean it I'd recommend checking out precision cameras. I'll link it below http://www.precisioncamera.com/professional-camera-repair.html
  10. Sigma lenses are great for image quality and sharpness but the only downside is that Autofocus isn't reliable, especially for video. I've had the 35mm and the 50mm using the MC-11 adapter on my a7ii and it will hunt quite a bit sometimes. If you're willing to use Manual Focus most of the time I'd say go for it. Keep in mind I always kept my lens, camera and adapter updated with the latest firmware. Samyang and Rokinon are pretty much the same company with different names. They have the manufacturers so there would be no difference in choosing one brand over the other. I have the Rokinon 50mm F1.4 and the AutoFocus is barely usable especially in AF-C. My lens isn't update so that maybe the reason. I wouldn't buy it unless it's updated or if you are planning to get the Lens Station for future updates.The colors on the Rokinon were a little weird to me too. The photos come out slightly more yellowish/orange and sometimes acts up even with a color checker passport. All in all, if you're interested in third party lenses, I'd look at Sigma because image quality, detail, distortion, and colors are far better than Rokinon and Samyang. Hope this helps! https://elgopro.myportfolio.com/ https://www.instagram.com/elgopro/
  11. What do you shoot most? Landscapes? Portraits? Sports? How much are you willing to drop?
  12. So, if you get the IS version of the Canon 70-200mm F2.8 Series, the lens stabilization will work but not the same way it would on a Canon body. If you mounted that lens on a canon body that has IBIS (In Body Image Stabilization), the lens would be used as an additional axis of stabilization. On a sony body, that would not be the case. It would work less efficiently and minimal difference would be shown. The AF-C is pretty good so far but I have to test it a little bit more before making a judgement. According to DXOMark, The non-IS has better picture quality than the IS version. I have the non-IS and still need to use it more to analyze consistent picture quality. I think both Stabilization and Image Quality are barely distinguishable. If I were you, I'd get the Non-IS because it has slightly better picture quality, the IS makes little to no difference, and it is cheaper to get the Non-IS. Ill try sending a few images once I have them ready. Here are the ratings by DXOMark https://www.dxomark.com/Lenses/Canon/EF70-200mm-f-2.8L-IS-USM https://www.dxomark.com/Lenses/Canon/EF70-200mm-f-2.8L-USM Hope this helps! https://elgopro.myportfolio.com/ https://www.instagram.com/elgopro/
  13. From a little bit of research and personal experience, Focus Area: Flexible Spot (Large or Medium) Type of AF: Phase AF Points Focus Mode: Single Shot If Jason Lanier is getting decent focus with AF-C, it is most likely because he has well lit subjects. He also uses an A7III which shouldn't make that big of a difference, but it still can be the difference. He uses the 85mm F1.2 lens in most of the MC-11 reviews, so I assume he used it in the one you watched. Hope this helps! https://elgopro.myportfolio.com/ https://www.instagram.com/elgopro/
  14. Which focus mode is it on currently? Is there an AF to MF Switch on the lens? Did you update the adapter and the lenses?
  15. I have the tamron 28-75mm f2.8 and its been working great for me. Performance is almost identical to my native lenses.
  16. Samyang and Rokinon are pretty much the same company with different names. They have the manufacturers so there would be no difference in choosing one brand over the other. I have the Rokinon 50mm F1.4 and the AutoFocus is barely usable especially in AF-C. My lens isn't update so that maybe the reason. I wouldn't buy it unless it's updated or if you are planning to get the Lens Station for future updates. The colors on the Rokinon were a little weird to me too. The photos come out slightly more yellowish/orange and sometimes acts up even with a color checker passport. All in all, if you're interested in third party lenses, I'd look at Sigma because image quality, detail, distortion, and colors are far better than Rokinon and Samyang. Hope this helps! https://elgopro.myportfolio.com/ https://www.instagram.com/elgopro/
  17. Yes, 4k is its really bad. Lowering the shutter speed will not affect image quality, but it may cause unpleasant motion blur. That's why twice the FPS is the recommended shutter speed in video. A balance between motion blur and "robot-looking" motion.
  18. So here's the deal, Yes, Creative Styles are for stills (RAW and JPEG) and Picture Profiles (PP) apply to video and stills shot on JPEG. That means if you shoot JPEG with the PP settings turned on, you will get a JPEG photo with the PP applied. This does not happen when shooting RAW. Only Creative Style works with RAW shooting. Hope this helps! https://www.instagram.com/elgopro/
  19. Depends. If I want slo-mo and Im getting grain at 120fps, I'd go to 60fps. Then I'd first make sure the shutter speed isn't more than twice the frame rate, so 60fps at 1/125. Second, is turning up the ISO (Preferably no more than 4000-6400 max). If the picture quality is still bad shooting at; F1.8__60fps__1/125__ISO6400; Then I'll have to shoot at 24 or 30fps to turn down the shutter speed and retain Picture Quality. Weddings usually aren't that low in lighting conditions especially during the main ceremony. Either way, the best way to play it safe is to go to the location of the wedding before hand to get a glimpse of lighting before hand to adjust your settings accordingly. If all that doesn't work, the last result will be to get a flash.
  20. I shoot in HD, but I usually only switch between three Picture Profiles using HLOG, SLOG or the setting in the video. If this seems all too complicated, I would just shoot using a Creative Style that looks closest to real life on the spot. Then keep my histogram on the display to update exposure according to lighting conditions. In the case of a Wedding, I would most likely shoot in Hlog. If you plan to use no Slow Motion, I'd shoot in 4k.
  21. The A7ii is way better for landscapes, stills and portraits. Because of it's full frame sensor, it can capture more detail and retain sharper images after edits. But, the a6000 is better for capturing action because of its higher Auto-Focus (AF) points. it has 179 while the a7ii stands at 117 AF points. The a6000 also has a higher burst rate. It can take 11 photos per second and the a7ii can only do 5 photos per second. Spec sheet linked below... https://cameradecision.com/compare/Sony-Alpha-a6000-vs-Sony-Alpha-7-II Hope this Helps!
  22. First, I'd look at your Picture Profile (PP) or Creative Style and make sure its not on "Neutral". In every Creative Style there is sharpness, contrast and saturation levels. 1. Make sure the saturation levels are not too low and if it is at 0, you can up the saturation for more color straight out of camera. Lowering the contrast in the Creative Style can give it more Dynamic Range for a picture like this. 2. Exposure looks okay but I'd stop it down a bit more preserve detail in the sky. 3. Play arounD with the different Creative Styles to find one that suits your liking. There are a handful of them (Standard, Neutral, Vivid, Deep, etc...) If that doesn't change anything, it is most likely the difference in color science between Nikon and Sony. That just means different editing tactics in Lightroom then. Hope this helps!
  23. Hey Michael, I was having similar issues video low light capabilities. I linked a video below by Joshyeo that helped me achieve better results. He goes over settings and profiles to shoot with to get clean footage. To summarize what he said in a few sentences, here are the recommended low light settings. Custom Profile 1. Menu - Picture profiles 2. PP2 - Right on dial 3. Black Level -2 4. Gamma Still 5. Black Gamma -2 6. Color Mode - Pro 7. Saturation -4 8. Detail -7 (Make sure to sharpen in post) 9. PLAY WITH SETTINGS AN FIND WHAT WORKS FOR YOU! What if you want to shoot in 120fps? "120p is clean in the day, and noisy in low light. so use a very fast lens, try bringing in practicals or use ambient line. use the profile I made, but keep gamma and black gamma at 0. and last try breaking the 180 degree shutter rule. You may be able to get away with shooting 1/125 shutter speed instead of having to shoot 1/250 (this will vary from subject to subject, the slower moving subject the better) GOOD LUCK!" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hjyu2s0JawQ I hope this helps!
  24. Part #: X-2590-709-1 Sony referred me to this website. https://sony.encompass.com/item/10237844/Sony/X-2590-709-1/Lid_Assy_(786)_Bt
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