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jimmy986

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About jimmy986

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  1. jimmy986

    Flash modifiers

    I have read some of his stuff. But it isn’t so much about knowing what I want. It’s about finding something that will accomplish the same thing for a lower price. And by the same thing, I don’t just mean the lighting I also include ease of set up, packing, professionalism, etc in with that. The Mag Mod system looks like it will back easily and set up quickly. It doesn’t require that I use homemade pieces that look bad and are a pain to set up in comparison. Most of the things I have made in the past might break when packed in a backpack while traveling. They worked for a while and never perfectly. So it really is just thinking about if there are other comparable systems out there but priced lower. I just don’t want to over pay if it exists.
  2. I don’t use flash often but I recently picked up one for portraits and some light painting. I need to get some light modifiers. In the past I have messed with homemade options but I can afford to buy instead of rigging things up that work just ok. The MagMod system looks really nice. Speed and ease of set up is important. We’re htere any other options I should consider for price reasons that still work well?
  3. jimmy986

    Looking for a portrait lens

    The 55mm is a 1.8 not a 1.4. But in terms of the 85mm, is there much reason to go up to 85mm 1.4 GM over the 85mm 1.8? I know you are getting al title faster lens but in terms of results is it worth the price difference. I typically buy used lenses and since I am not on a time crunch I can wait and find it for a good deal. I can spend the money so if it is worth it I would get it. In terms of travel photography, would many people travel with an 85mm prime or do most people leave the primes at home and take the zooms for wi=eight and space restrictions?
  4. I switched form Fuji about 6 months ago and I’m building my lens kit. So far, I have a 16-35 GM, 55 1.8, Samyang 35mm, and the 100-400. I am looking to get into more portraiture work. Specifically, I also want to work on animal portraiture. There is a local animal group that is looking for someone to photograph their animals that need homes and I have supported these groups personally and thought this would be a good way to work on my animal skills and possible create a portfolio of animal portraiture as my area does not have many photographer that do that and there is definitely room for that work. The question is, based on what I have, what would be a good lens to add? I have been looking at the 24-70 as it would compliment my 16-35 for travel as well. But I know that would be on the short end for portraits. Would an 85mm be good for both human and animal portraiture? I obviously would need something relatively fast focusing for animals but it’s helpful for people as well. All opinions welcome.
  5. jimmy986

    Samyang 24mm F2.8 - my experiences

    Well I found it on Adorama used for $209 yesterday. Tried to buy it but they had already been sold.....lucky me I found it on B&H today for $198. I figured for under $200 I couldn't pass it up.
  6. jimmy986

    Samyang 24mm F2.8 - my experiences

    You like the 35 2.8? I am considering it for street photography. I have the 55 1.8 but it's a little longer than I want sometimes plus a lot bigger. The Samyang 35 is only $289 right now so if it works well at all it seems like a great deal. Even the af isn;t a deal breaker if it's a little slow because I can pre-focus if I want.
  7. jimmy986

    Looking to add to my kit of lenses

    The Samsung is AF. The Sony 28 f/2 would be a good option but I don’t like the size. The 55 is already bigger than I’d like so I don’t want another lens that big for street and the 28 is only slightly smaller. The 35 is almost half the size of the 28.
  8. I currently have an a7Rii with the 16-35 f/2.8, 55 f/1.8, and 100-400. Most of my work is landscape/cityscape, street, and wildlife. The 16-35 is working out well for landscapes so far. The 55 is good for streets. Sometimes I do find the 55 to be on the long end for street photography. Before I switched from Fuji, my go to lens was the 23mm f/2 so I'm thinking a 35mm would be great. The 1.4 would be too big for street IMO. So that would leave the 2.8. For street, I am shooting in low light a lot but with the genre, I don't always hate introducing noise. The gritty look can either be helped in post or utilized artistically. The Sony 35 2.8 is about $800 but I'm in no rush so I could wait and find a deal on a used one. However, the Samyang version is only $298. For a lens that would be used for street it would save weight in my bag while traveling over other focal lengths/zooms, it would save money for a lens that wouldn't be used as a money maker, etc. However, I don;t want to go cheap if the lens isn't any good. I have heard it's loud, which might be an issue for some street situations but if it isn't extremely loud it may not be a deal breaker. Does anyone have any experience with it or the IQ? The other lens I am considering down the road is the 24-70 2.8. It seems with the 16-35, I would have pretty good coverage on the mid-wide end. How are those two lenses for concert photography? Is the 2.8 wide enough? I am friends with local musicians have considered trying my hand. Mostly just for fun to mess around with something new but it might be something I want to do more of.
  9. I wasn't sure where to post this so hopefully this is the best place. I currently keep all of my photos on an 8 TB external drive. My Mac only has 1 TB of storage and my photos are just over 900GB. I need to get a back up for the external since I can't use my computer to store them on. What is a good way? I would love to have something that would automatically sync with my external but if need be it doesn't have to. Cloud storage would be nice because then I wouldn't be relying on two drives located together if anything should happen to my home. I know the easiest option would be to just buy a second drive and it may be what I do but I wanted to check and see if there were any better ideas.
  10. jimmy986

    looking for a macro lens

    I did just get a 100-400 for wildlife photography so I guess I should give it a try.
  11. I have never been big into macro photography but I have always been interested in getting into it. Not long before switching from Fuji to Sony I got a macro lens but didn't get a lot of use out of it before the switch. With macro, AF doesn't seem to be very important as you normally use MF, unless the lens was going to double as another purpose. I'm not sure I want to spend as much on the Sony 90mm macro, unless it is noticeable better than other options. For the most part, macro will not be a big money maker for me for the time being. I do have a local jewelry store that has asked if I would be interested in taking pictures for their website. I have never done jewelry before, and I know that macro won't be necessary for all of the shots but showing the handcrafter nature of the product would be good. It may not be something I decide to do since I am not proficient in product shots but they are a local business working on a budget so if they aren't expecting the results of an experienced product photographer and we can both grow it together then I may. But what lens would be good for macro, and this type of product shooting in general? Also, any advice on charging for this type of work that will likely be on going. The jewelry is made by a local gemologist so they will won't to keep the website up to date as they create new work. And keep in mind I am not an expert in this genre as of right now so I would not be charging the same as someone with a lot of experience.
  12. jimmy986

    Birding-adapt lenses or buy new

    I will receive the Sony 100-400 today.....so I'm very excited. On a related note, do I use IBIS and the lens IS together or do I need to turn steady shot off?
  13. jimmy986

    Considering moving to Sony

    I feel like I notice a difference in my Sony files. BUT, that is a difference of 21 MP to 42 MP. What you are talking about seems to be 21 MP to 24 MP, unless you mean 42 MP. But, I already like the Sony files better than my Canon or Fuji. But you are definitely right that MP count is not the only issue. Some sensors are simply better than others regardless of the count. But, I have always heard Sony has amazing sensors so coupled with the MP count it should be a pretty good combo.
  14. jimmy986

    IBIS

    I understand what you're saying. The times that I have accidentally left it on have not done anything noticeable. BUT, it takes me about 2 seconds to turn it off so why not just to be safe? Unless it's really windy or something and there could be tripod movement. Like I said, not worth arguing over since it takes such little time and effort to turn it off.
  15. jimmy986

    Get Rid of Lamp post?

    I think you're right about the bench and the building on the right. If I get in front of the bench, possibly shooting from on the bench, I can maybe get the lamp post to night be competing as much the main building and I can get the right side of the that building out from behind the tree. If I with a larger aperture I can probably let the buildings get peak focus and the lanp post to blur as you suggested. Sometimes landscape/cityscape type imagery doesn't need the large DOF we sometimes go to automatically.
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