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Chrissie last won the day on April 5

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About Chrissie

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  1. Caspar, my experience pertains to GoPro class gimbals only. What I can tell you though is, that it's not only weight to be concerned about. Obviously you'll need to be able to balance the gimbal about all three axes while idle. Usually, you'll be able to place the camera-lens combo's CG by means of some rail-like adapters in the suitable spot. And then, a "large" lens also has physical dimensions. So, depending on what you intend to do with the gimbal, you may want to watch out for sufficient mechanical clearance, to allow for full rotation of the camera-lens combo within the respective gimbal arms. As a combination of weight and "size" (length in particular), you'll have to deal with the "moment of inertia", which is the resistance against changes in rotational speed(s). So if you need ultra-quick reaction of the gimbal, you should give preference to _short_ lenses. If in doubt between two candidates, pick the stronger one. Good luck, and maybe you can post some of your future work once you have settled for a solution. Chris
  2. If you want to delete all contents of the memory card: this is called "format", and it's in the Setup section of the menu.
  3. This is a little bit confusing for me: Images are always stored on the SD card, even without any Camfi involved. Did you mean to say, that images taken by your camera via Camfi remote control are downloaded to your computer? (which would make much more sense ...)
  4. Thanks for reporting back. I'm glad you got it to work this far, and apparently without my help, too. I'm sorry I can't contribute any further as for my own a9 all the focus-related functions are not supported.
  5. Because you asked and got me curious, and because it's still mostly lockdown over here and I have spare time etc.: I re-activated my camfi which had been collecting dust in its package for a while now. This is what I can tell you to hopefully get you started. Follow the steps in sequence: Charge battery of Camfi until full. Connect Camfi to your camera via the USB cable which came with your Sony A7R4. The large plug goes into Camfi's USB socket, the small plug into the camera. You can slide Camfi into the hot shoe of your camera for convenience (hands-free operation), but there is no electricity/signal connection involved - it's purely mechanical at this point. Don't turn on Camfi just yet. Turn on the camera and set USB-mode to "PC Remote". Turn camera off and back on, to be sure the new USB-mode setting is active. Leave camera ON. Turn on Camfi via the slider/switch. Note the LED signals in front of Camfi: The ON/OFF indicator should turn blue instantly. The Battery indicator should not be lit. USB (cable connection between Camfi and A7R4) must turn blue shortly thereafter. If not: wrong cable! Maybe even later: 5G must also turn blue - may be flickering, but that's just an indication it's communicating. Camfi now provides a WLAN-access point functionality! On your Computer: Install the latest version of the Camfi App. Got to its network/wlan setting and select the Camfi-blahblah... access point. Start the Camfi app on your computer - it should connect to the camera, via the Camfi-WLAN. In the lower left of the Camfi App, click on the leftmost icon (live view). You should now see what the camera is viewing on your computer screen. From there, you're on your own ... 😉 Good luck!
  6. See my posts re. Camfi Pro on this forum. Please use the forum search function "camfi". My last post on that topic here. Note, that Camfi's most recent "detailed camera support list" does now list the a7r4 as being supported for focus stacking. My a9 is still listed as unsupported though.
  7. I'm not familiar with your particular use case, But abstracting this to the general requirements, I regularly have to deal with a similar situation when shooting spherical panoramas (360x180), which involves looking straight into the sun as well as looking the opposite direction. The individual shots end up being merged, or "blended" into a single spherical panorama. This requires some preparation: switch your camera to Manual mode, then observe , how the brightness conditions change while you do a full 360 round view. Adjust the exposure (shutter, aperture) to acceptable values for your main directional range of view and leave them fixed throughout your session. ISO will float. If you don't like that, set ISO to a fixed value, or a narrow ISO range, too. Be aware, that this may result in underexposed, as well as overexposed footage, depending on the variations in lighting throughout your session. You'll have to find a good compromise. Only thereafter start the actual shooting. https://www.flickr.com/photos/145899543@N02/42078994555/in/dateposted/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/145899543@N02/41170536440/in/dateposted/
  8. I was prepared for that question, too 😉 The reason for this obvious difference in appearance is twofold: Your left image has a high contrast between skin and background, making the pixelation more obvious than the right image, where dark skin is shot against a dark background (low contrast). The pixel zoom factor in the left image is about twice as high than in the right image, again visually amplifying the pixelation of the left image. (See my slightly redacted portion of your sample). You aren't trying to supply the forum with random workload, in times of lockdown, are you? 😉
  9. Any image from any camera using any lens will look "very pixelated", if you zoom in to more than 100%. What you really should do first is, do a Zoom to 100%, 1:1 or whatever this setting might be called. If your target doesn't cover enough pixels, because maybe you were too far away, there is no point in cranking up the pixel zoom factor. This is the digital world, and there is no additional information somehow "hidden" between pixels. Much unlike the analogue world, where using a magnifying glass might very well reveal information which was not visible to the naked eye.
  10. Have you tried the exposure compensation dial?
  11. Well, since you were asking how to reduce, and I didn't know where you had started out from, I could only give you this general hint. But your selection is in fact the lowest that's documented in the help guide. Good luck! Maybe you can let us know how it finally worked out.
  12. Any setting that gives you a smaller bitrate than what you've currently set. "Bitrate" are those funny Mbps values in the linked document. You will anyhow be limited by the smallest bandwidth of either WLAN, LAN, switches, routers and/or bandwidth as supplied by your internet connection, which may be part of the total transmission chain.
  13. Yes, that's possible. I'm confused by what you may have meant by the "18% grey" thing, though. I used the Sony/Zeiss 1.8/55 for this test. You need to set the Mode Dial to "M", (manual), select shutter speed and aperture to the desired settings. In addition, ISO needs to be set to "Auto" (Menu: Camera 1 / page 9 / ISO => select "Auto", then allow for a sufficiently large range where the Auto ISO can float within, as described in the "Hint" paragraph on the "ISO" help guide page (se last link):
  14. WARNING: I've wasted both money and many hours of time, trying to get a similar product, CAMFI II to work with my a9. Their software was buggy as hell across countless software releases, before I quit wasting my time. May have improved by now, but I doubt it. And many advertised features were not supported on Sony cameras. Including but not limited to - Taddah! - focus stacking! Before considering buying the Camranger II product, I strongly recommend reviewing the list of "Unsupported Features" on the camera of your choice. For the a6400, this list includes - Taddah! - focus stacking!
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