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DanArt

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  1. So my edited response. The SONY A7 series have an "Always" mode in video. However the video will literally halt when that shot is being taken. I assume not every camera model supports this mode. Otherwise this feature is not presented because of the mode settings. Maybe it is a JPEG thing ( for which I would assume would be sharing the video output ( as with dual recording ). Meaning It would be processing in silent-shooting mode. About sponsers ( the video you shown us ) 1. There is a "hold harmless" statement in the start of the video holding B&H / Andorama not responsible for any misinformation shown in the video. Meaning somebody at B&H knows it is a sponsor marketing a product. Meaning they might be using an altered product or R&D model. if you buy a camera from B&H because of this video and it shows something not featured they will be held harmless for your loss of income/funds 2. Most sponsors are snake-oil and you should read between the lines of who they are selling to. What is occurring.in their presentation and they kind of person they are.targeting. A lot of times it is peoples retirement funds. When I am grey and not going to be investing in any photography equipment at all unless they could show me how I could market income. 3. That being said the mode "Photo while Video" is probably in the camera somewhere but was remove Sony Alpha Forum 4. That being the A7S there could be a chance the mode exist or previously existed being directed towards video
  2. I am checking out my A7RII and it appears to have slots for the White Balance to be changed so I do not know what they are talking about?
  3. About wireless remote via phone. Problem is usually you have to think where and when you are going to use this and literally keep an extra phone just to control the camera. Old or new. My Nvida tablet is unable to work with the official SONY remote App but my Microsoft phone can work with a 3rd party app SONY has remote options but I have yet to find one that runs smoothly ( To do serious video ). I recently brought a FOTGA RM-VS1 which works great. With an official SONY video lens depending on press can do a super fast Zoom or super smooth zoom. My only concern is focusing the lens itself ( without disturbing the wheel with my hand ) Physical Zoom ( SONY video lens with the electronic zoom button ) Clear view Zoom... 2-4X digital zoom with no loss??? Digital Zoom AKA the fake 10X Zoom that comes with most cameras. for my A7rii it is really low and too grainy. Good looking That being said the physical Zoom ......... Again FOTGA RM-VS1
  4. It is not a problem with the camera but the problem with the light source. I did video recording of an event and had it 1/100 when I should have had it at 1/80 ( phones automatically dail int 1/50 among other settings ). So that being said to solve this problem you have to the lower the aperture the bigger the ISO and the slower the shutter. I am thinking about focus infinity I have shot a dance performance and when certain lights pop up I get rolling band. Why? Because my shutter speed is too fast. The slower the shutter speed the less band because that light has to cross into your photo. This problem is seen with SILENT SHOOTING MODE with various kinds of light. You literally could take your low-light cheap lamp beside your kids bed and try SILENT SHOOTING v. SHUTTER SHOOTING MODE. Then turn on the MULTIPLE SHOOTING MODE ( instead of single shot ) and try dialing up the ISO ( 6400 is usually the max before artifacts ) dialing down the shutter speed to 1/80 or lower Opening the aperture to 1.0 or 4.3 does help but then you might create the problem of BOK. You would only open the aperture again to prevent grain/garbage. Not saying all grain is bad but we want avoid artifacts at all costs. That being said Now we would be getting into the art of low-light photography but for a lighted room or flash this would not matter at all. ......................................................................................................................................................................... It is not a problem with the camera it is a problem with the light source. The light source is all messed up and TOO SLOW
  5. Your problem is that your slack space ( unused space in between files ) still have something there. Being image data can be processed and read. Slack space could also hold text, sound, and other kinds of information as well. Slack space is unused space being written over but the contents while being marked deleted is still their. 1. delete everything off your card via computer. 2. Get an "eraser" zero filling program and let at it. 3. Reformat the card via the computer ( your poor baby your camera does too much ) 4. Then allow your camera to do it's thing and you should be set. ......................................................................................................................... This was a problem that happen to me when I was using my camera phone "Lumia 1020" and when converting from RAW to Jpeg Pro. Sometimes the Jpeg PRO would fail. Regular JPG would stick around but JPG pro failed. That is a 42mp compressed JPG v. Regular JPG. The RAWS would come out flawless. However when trying to recover regular 5MP JPG to the 42MP RAWS what you show me would occur. ......................................................................................................................... My advice to my experience would be to shoot only in RAW. Because while the JPEG could come out good it is taking time to compress it down to JPG Also if you are using cheap over the counter or somebody elses old card it might be the problem as well. Buy the best card you could buy even if it cost $200 a pop
  6. Noise happens because of lack of lighting, too fast shutter. Most if not all cameras stop at 6400iso when it comes to noise with the 100ISO being average to most. It is a hard concept to master. Another problem about post processing ( digital darkroom ) is that you might need to update your camera raw plugins. This is usually the culprit otherwise try something else is capture 1. Before when I was learning I was using GIMP to process my DNG files ( and it gave me great results ) but I was unable to do a bunch of images at the same time, and force me to use and move to Photoshop
  7. This is a mirror-less camera where only moving part is the shutter. There is no way it should be damaged because of shaking. I have dropped and physically injured my camera many times. Still functions. That is the part of paying so much for this camera. The magnesium casing is built to sustain a variable amount of damage. Yes you should respect the camera ( because they are fall fragile ) but shaking should not take it out so easy.
  8. On the camera itself the camera itself has that button on the back. I think there are like three to four different ways to shut off the auto focus or switch between AF/MF There is one big button on the back, an AF/MF switch nearby. The focusing method can shift between how you use the AF to even turning it off. Also in the menu their might be the same options mentioned. I get that problem only if it is not screwed in correctly
  9. maybe you was holding down the focus hold ( turns off the focus ) button. Some lens have extra buttons to halt focus while most SONY camera have one big button to stop AF. It is also an option in the menus
  10. Ideal settings so far at least for me Everything RAW ( or compressed RAW ) To hell with JPEGS RAW All the way. However for clients who only respond to JPG I prefer to give them JPG only ( because that is how they think ). ISO 100 ( note native is 800 ??? ) . Via night time shooting ISO 6400 is highest you can gain without loss. I have used higher ISO but it also affects the flash outcome alongside the shutte. Shutter Speed 100-250. Why 250? Because I have yet to find any official SONY flash that is able to sync above that range. I have flashes that can go at 1/8000 per second but they slow down miserably Aperture ( closed to get the starburst and focus infinity affect ) so I need tons of lighting. Only time I need the aperture open is if the scene is really dark, that being a fill flash can take care of that muddy mess in case I have to turn up the shutter speed. If you are in a dark room the subject needs to stay still or the ISO needs to be raised, but again if you open that shutter you will gain Bokan ( blurred background ) however if your in a venue or club with a small space that will not matter. To compare to a sports arena where the lighting is optimal or even a concert/perfomance where it is questionable.
  11. Keep this short and sweet. You need the most up to date and most powerful machine you could find in your price range. Mine is a W350 Thinkpad with i7. I think the T5 is the current flagship for Thinkpad????? but again I needed a workstation in mind. Something that can not fail and does work. I spent literally $200 more then what my sibling brought for our mother. That computer is terrible and sluggish. About Hard drives you need SSD ASAP no matter what. You can keep a 7200RPM ( I think the RPM nowdays are better? ) drive for long term storage but remember they all will start to fail one day. SSD are worst because they could stop writing or reading and is very hard to recover from if possible. I rarely edit from drive or network. I ( or you ) could network our project from a server ( the file ) and edit from file if the connection is fast enough. I network from my home network. I am still trying to boost the speed of the network and make it wireless. Again SSD for big work and memory usage but regular RPM drives for storage and short term edits. Otherwise the flagship of whatever brand you prefer to use. Even Apple flagships are the better option. More exotic brands are questionable but refurbish computers are better to save money.
  12. Okay I am using a W350 i7 labtop. The i9 is out right now and if I could update the processor and overclock it I would. I am using a labtop with external ( apple monitor ) for display. If you get a labtop it will save you when you have power outages or else you will have to buy something to prevent that for the PC, which could cost you work if you do not. 32GB is good enough. A new SSD is great and 2TB storage is low to be honest. I have one 10TB storage unit as a backup and my other 2TB storage works great but the RPM ( Revolutions per minute ) needs to be as fast as possible for extreme photo editing. Almost $500 dollars for something your about $200 dollars away from being a tad bit more powerful as a laptop. Unless your planning to max out the computer I would ensure everything is up to date
  13. The play memories app you should make all the necessary changes on the camera itself. Then use the phone app. Again there are many remote camera applications and virtual display applications. The phone app might be limited as well. I am able to shoot RAW ( compressed ) + JPG because all the settings are done in advance. This is the unofficial application. SONY has also made an official camera application but so far it does not run my device
  14. NOTE:: Did not turn on the memories app loophole. Nore did I check the setting at all. For anything mentioned in this paragraph. This is firmware 4.0 etc KEYWORDS: HOT SWAPPABLE, WITH DECODING IDENTIFICATION OF POWER SOURCE. So I am updating my quest findings for a power source to keep the camera going for at least 4hrs straight. At least that is the goal. FIRST TEST Case-relay = fail ( scam ). They have batches of this product going bad. I am not surprised at all. Tether tools claim their product needs that matching couple ( also from tether tools to function. However I have tried charging this thing over and over only to have it remained on red and this was from a new box. I do not feel safe with this garbage via my camera system. I thought it was a great idea. Theter tools is the most dumbest crap company I have seen forever. Their products looks like great ideas but they go bad. Reading more on the Case-relay horror show a dude literally took his apart to actually make the thing work. It uses a 7.4 1200mah ( note 7.5 is recommended ) but only has a 5 volt draw ( usb stick ). Also it is unable to use with power banks that auto off when doing jobs that requires you not to auto off. SECOND TEST So I ran into a new problem. The NP-F970 that I have going into the NP-FW50 does not ID the battery unit at all. What I did different was to see if the NP-F970 would stay alert and stay charged while plugged in. Here is what happen. The charger unit to the NP-F970 was actually feeding the juice to the camera. The charger unit also holds a charge even without a battery inserted. I put the batter in the unit and it showed green ( because the battery was charged ) but when I switched on the Camera A7rii the light became red. The camera recorded for about 1 hour long before tapping out ( over heat? ). So what I discover is while I can get the NP-F970 to function it was not reading the battery at all. It shut off ( after one hour ), and in fact it was reading the charge unit. It kept on recording beyond 30 minutes while being on %2. Turning the camera back on I discover the unit to display %100. So again it is not even reading the battery because it is unable to decode or identify the battery itself. The charge ( power source is accepted ) but the amount of juice being reported is incorrect including whether or not it is coming from the wire itself. So I need to get a solution that is able to decode and report the battery type and display the true amount of the battery to the A7rii. I have purchased a matching unit for the NP-F970 powerextra ( note this went up to 2 hours the last time I did a test ). Again without the ability to Identify the battery as with the VG-C2EM even if I have a power source I am unable to get the full amount in OTHER IDEAS Both Lanparte and Andoer have V-mount and Gold-mount solutions. Lanparte seems to have a more professional solution which I am looking for. A power source that does not stop..but what i need is the ability to hot swap the battery itself, or even to charge the battery while it is plugged into the camera. Again I am trying prep this camera for long term recording. Like an auditorium. Not film making but to be in an big room of performers and not making and shooting movies with surfer dudes and washed up movie stars. I need this camera to keep on running without any auto power offs. Some USB sticks auto power off and it is a feature being built into them too many too much. Using the official power cable is a huge no as it needs to be free for other devices and overheat is more evident with the battery in the body. While SONY has made the VG-C2EM which is decoded and is identified. I am not too certain about charging the thing via the power insert at all. I would need to see somebody test their A7rii in a non air conditioned environment with the VG-C2EM loaded. I am not against SONY but I wish we could charge via the add-on itself which would actually make it worth while. Other devices have remotes but I need a remote that could take advantage of the SONY Clear view or Zoom via TV lens. ( Another problem all together. ) The main idea is to get the battery away from the camera to prevent overheating. Overheating is the real issue here. Overheat has three to four causes. Battery Internal recording via SD slot which is why we have external recording devices after the update. In fact my SD card has literally melted during the two hour test, ( became soft feeling ). So even if I do find a %100 solution I might have to record externally ( which just sucks ). Charging bay. The USB port. As you know power means heat and we do not need more heat then what is being generated from the battery. sensor. Years back via the A7rii was released somebody did produce a heat sink for the back ( between the display and the sensor. That area gets super hot next to the battery and SD bay. This is for film in a auditorium, performance hall, or even a game not to be missed. No edits or cuttings. Shooting a 17 minute scene is no problem but I need to hit 4hours straight at least. I got it to 2 hours before If the VG-C2EM could charge from the VG-C2EM itself it would be the External Battery system I could use. However it charges from the camera itself??? NP-F970 series also have a dual V-mount solution but again I am to worry about the reporting of the power. As somebody has mentioned about self powering off. Again the goal is to Beat the heat Continues recording via A7rii. Maybe we get a fix that prevents powering off or even ignoring the temp monitor.
  15. About your quality of image. Between a 35mm film camera and your 35mm censor the film camera wins. Why? Because You can take that film and convert it to digital ( which is what people with film cameras are doing and why you see them being used still ). The censor size v. film is another theory in itself. Lets say you was recording in 4K it is not going to make a difference because 4K is way more smaller then any MP your camera is using. However in terms of detailed gained v. detail loss via the MP it is not going to make a difference. Maybe in print it will but again the extra MP is for Crop-factor and ignoring loss. In terms of Printing Viewing on a 300dpi display and machine that can handle it unlike my 72dpi labtop. ......................................................................................................................... Think this way. Within that 40MP or 60MP you have multiple 20MP images and only side by side ( resizing down the 40MP ) you would be able to spot the differences. Another factor is post production ( retouching ) via Capture 1, Lightroom, Camera RAW ( which is what I use ), and many other machines. In post you would be able to get the most out of that 160MP electronic back end with the giant medium frame lens sensor. In the case of over exposing. Your argument is correct when it comes to retouching and the "digital development room" ......................................................................................................................... Okay GM G OSS etc are only different in build quality and usability. For example I am using a 35mm Samyang and thus able to get close enough to a subject ( at eye point view ) even closer then I would with a normal GM, or non Official SONY model. However when recording I notice flickering of reds and blacks ( not noticeable too much but is a problem you see with video even on the news which uses a variety of lens and cameras LIVE tv ) but with the GM lens I have I do not spot those reds in the blacks via video. Again the Samyang 35mm is not weatherproof but again I used it for a job inside of a venue, which is why I purchased it. Another factor is the amount of "glass" lens the image passes through and other sciences. Your paying for those extra ( elements ??? ) to get a clearer image. So I might have the superior lens with the superior camera but does not mean I am able to walk by unnoticeable. I AM LITERALLY CRAWLING ON THE FLOOR with an G 70-400 trying to capture singers etc . While heavy is good even the sacrifice of FE lens might be too much You can take the same exact lens ( even older SEARS lens or legendary lens ) and still be able to make use of that 40MP sensor and get pin point beautiful shots. However in short what I have experienced so far is that yes the GM lens do make a differences with the official camera systems but the same shot and details could be achieved. Honest to gosh I am still looking at that Nikon 5D camera that is only 20MP. I really want to see if the ISO capabilities are spot on even the MP is only 20MP.
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