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  1. Like
    Username got a reaction from Thad E Ginathom in A7ii v4.00 FINDER/MONITOR custom button?   
    Amused ? Nope .....
    INSPIRED ? Oh yaz ! 
       
    Many of my devices have added markings to 
    remind me, warn me, direct me, etc. I buy a
    lotta cheap primary color white, black, yellow
    and red nail polish toward that end ... altho I
    have yet to actually spell stuff out in text :-) 
  2. Like
    Username got a reaction from petrochemist in Good Adapter Plan?   
    `     
       
     
    "Lens adapters cause misalignment, which
    can affect IQ. Even if the misaligment is
    microscopic, it can reduce sharpness in the
    image. Digilloyd and Lensrentals have
    tested it and written about it."   
     
     
    Link to the article mentioned above:   
       
    https://wordpress.lensrentals.com/blog/2013/09/there-is-no-free-lunch-episode-763-lens-adapters/   
       
       
    Too many members of the forum will read
    that Lensrentals has written about how ...
      
    .... adapters are hugely
    and totally useless .... 
         
    without comprehending that it says they are 
    totally useless for use on an optical bench, 
    but failing to realize what that means.   
         
    The adapters absolutely failed to be precise 
    enuf to serve as an integral component of
    an optical bench. BTW they are also totally
    useless as hockey pucks. Both these facts  
    are equally meaningless to photographers. 
    Lensrentals does a disservice to the photo 
    community by discussing optical bench use. 
       
    Thaz like saying the drugs that save your 
    life ... chemicals that are USP phama-pure, 
    have absolutely and totally failed to be pure 
    and precise enuf to be used as analytical
    reagents by research chemists. BTW that is 
    generally the case. That is why chemicals 
    come in three grades: Reagent, USP, and 
    Industrial. Do not put industrial in your body. 
    But USP is for USE in your Body. Reagent 
    is waaaaay too pure and precise and costly 
    to waste on human consumption. It is for 
    research analysts, and must be ultra perfect
    so as to have no tiny trace element that will 
    bring error into test reactions. Likewise an 
    optical bench is a TESTING device, and so  
    every element of it must be 99.999...99% 
    error-free. True, adapters are not that pure.  
        
    An Optical Bench is not for making actual
    photographs. It's for ultra accurate testing.
    IOW it needs "reagent" grade components, 
    waaaaay closer to absolute perfection than 
    the USP quality that you use on your body, 
    IOW on your camera body. 
       
    Adapters are not good for the devices that 
    TEST lenses. They are quite suitable for 
    devices that USE lenses to record images.  
       
    This all spelled out in the linked story if you 
    know how to objectively READ it.
  3. Like
    Username got a reaction from mack100 in Considering moving to Sony   
    It's not an upgrade. It's just different. 
    Definitely worth a try if you can afford 
    to keep your current gear as well, for 
    an overlap of about 6 to 12 months, 
    in case you choose to stay with it. 
  4. Like
    Username got a reaction from Lescatalpas in 70-300 on 7RM3? Or 70-200 and crop?   
    `     
       
    Any user with "pixels to spare" ... basically, the "R" version bodies 
    ... might do well to experiment with Sony's Clear Image Zoom, not
    the other zoom, the Digital Zoom. Basically, it scales up the pixel 
    count while slightly cropping the image. Unlike Sony Digital Zoom, 
    CIZ is conservative, offering only 2X maximum. My use of it, never 
    exceeding 1.5X, often allows using a prime instead of a zoom.    
       
    P.S. I'm joining the chorus of compliments on your work !
  5. Like
    Username got a reaction from asandell in AF-C malfunction, hunting, with Sony A7s i, A7s ii, Rokinon 50mm AF   
    `     
       
    I have several examples of issues like that, 
    even including supposedly identical bodies 
    having different AF behaviors with certain 
    lenses. Note that word: "Supposedly". The 
    not-so-small difference is always firmware, 
    with the more desirable behaviors always 
    resulting from the later versions. 
        
    YMMV but that my dos pesos. 
  6. Like
    Username got a reaction from Dlee13 in Good Adapter Plan?   
    `   
       
       
    One of the rare instances of a sensible
    approach concerning adapters.
  7. Like
    Username got a reaction from infusion in good lens to shoot a rock concert   
    `    
      
        
    The 18-105/4 OSS can offer you the identical wide-to-tele
    range as your G-16. It's a full stop less transmission at the 
    long end but, compared to the tiny sensor in the G-16, you 
    now have a giant sensor that can more than compensate 
    for that by raising the ISO, while still producing less image 
    noise [due to it's far less crowded field of pixels]. 
       
    You can use the Clear Image Zoom to double the long end 
    of the zoom without compromising the AF ability. CIZ is a 
    function of the body and firmware, not the lens. It basically
    does in-camera cropping while interpolating the lost pixels
    so as to maintain the full 24MP despite the cropping. 
  8. Like
    Username got a reaction from Seagas in Sigma f2.8 primes or the Sony’s   
    `   
         
    "Tradition" on this forum is to always ignore 
    your budget and insist you must, somehow,  
    get the GM lenses ......  
      
    :-(     
         
    However I'll leave that to upholders of their
    tradition/religion and will confirm this much:  
     
    1. Both of your ideas are excellent ... and  
     
    2. The more you stick with Sony native 
    lenses the better off you'll be, especially 
    as the system evolves. IOW I favor your 
    second option [with the macro].  
  9. Like
    Username got a reaction from Pozos in Sony A9 viewfinder exposure meter--??   
    I have not got your exact model, but general 
    Sony experience hints to me that the grayed 
    out range is will prolly come alive when the
    scale represents the amount of AE biasing
    dialed in when using the AE modes. 
     
     
    Sony simply tends, across the model line, to 
    use only a +/- 2EV M-mode scale, all else 
    being just "high" or "low". IOW you have not 
    overlooked any info/readout settings.  
       
    OTOH you may have overlooked possible 
    workarounds. Depending on the reason you 
    might desire a longer scale, you might find 
    that an AE mode more versatile/controllable 
    than M-mode if you set your AEL to "toggle", 
    which creates a sort of hybrid manual-auto 
    mode that responds to the AE biasing dial. 
  10. Like
    Username got a reaction from WillyL in Trade - 16-35mm for 24-70   
    " ............ not what I wanted and don't want to
    go through the hassle of returning it, getting
    a refund  ........... " 
     
     
    SMELLS ROTTEN.  
     
        
    Just HOW is it LESS hassle to: 
         
    1. Advertise for a rather unlikely opportunity 
    2. Discuss trade with possible interested party
    3. Package, ship, and insure stuff in two directions 
         
         
    @ the one-post noob: 
          
    If you are honest, I still would not wanna deal with 
    someone so irrational ... someone who's foolish on 
    at least two counts: 
         
    1. Insisting on doing things assbackwards 
    2. Failing to realize that, structurally, his offer reeks
    of scam, stolen goods, etc, upon a casual reading.   
        
    Honest-but-naive OR criminal, either way, no one 
    should take up this offer. A critique such as this is 
    out of place ..... in the Swap-and-Sell section. But 
    this not that section. This is a discussion forum and 
    so I am discussing "Internet Literacy" and just plain
    common sense. 
      
    Am I being harsh ? Yes. Quite intentionally.
    `
      
    `
  11. Like
    Username got a reaction from CesareBrizio in Mirror Lockup in Sony Alpha 850   
    Did you check out the self timer sequence ? Because,  
    many SLR self timers raise the mirror at the beginning
    of the timer delay, so there is no mirror vibration at the 
    finish of the delay when the exposure finally happens.  
       
    This might be the reason the controls options are as 
    you have described them. IOW, a user does not need 
    to intentionally set both the mirror pre-lift AND the self 
    timer ... IF the mirror pre-lift is already incorporated in  
    the self timer sequence.  
       
    The wording in the user manual suggests that all the
    above may be just wishful thinking. The manual says 
    to raise mirror first, and then use the remove release. 
    Therefor you may need to buy the remote release. 
  12. Like
    Username got a reaction from Keith (M) in A6500 + FE 70-200mm f4 G - Overkill?   
    That shot is also a testament to the
    efficacy of the IBIS in the a6500, as 
    well as the ease of handling the f/4 
    version, since 1/320 is the marginal/ 
    minimal handheld shutter speed for
    200mm on APSC. Excellent choice, 
    congratulations ... enjoy !
  13. Like
    Username got a reaction from TrolleySwag in Sony A6500: Always need someone behind the camera!   
    Also, MF. 
       
    And really, a new girlfriend. 
  14. Like
    Username got a reaction from marcosdourados in Sony A6500: Always need someone behind the camera!   
    Also, MF. 
       
    And really, a new girlfriend. 
  15. Like
    Username got a reaction from Gdavison4 in A7Riii banding   
    At 1/250 the shutter gap that scans the format is about 50%
    the height of the format, and your blobs are about 50% the
    height of the format. The1/640 gap is about 20% the height 
    of the format. This more less agrees with your blob sizes. 
      
    The 10 or so dark stripes cannot be caused by mechanical 
    means at such shutter times, as they are too close together. 
    The lines are about 2.5mm apart and the shutter blades gap
    at 1/250 is about 12mm. 
      
    I fear you have an electronic problem with the readout from 
    the sensor ... something like the readout beginning while the 
    shutter is still traveling. At any rate, you need repair, or even
    a replacement. A further indication that this is an electronic 
    malady is that you see it even in the EVF ... which acoarst is 
    a readout from the sensor unrelated to the shutter. 
       
    A newly released camera should still be under warranty, and 
    if you bought an extended warranty that covers accidents, I'd 
    crush the camera and get a replacement, given Sony's sorry 
    reputation for service. Some vendors offer a 30 day window,
    an extended opportunity beyond the day of purchase, to buy
    into the extra coverage. 
  16. Like
    Username got a reaction from PeterMac in Feedback & Thoughts on Sony 20mm/f2.8 lens   
    That lag is the only [and partial] anti-shake function of 
    an a6000 body. It separates your finger action from the
    actual moment of exposure. It's somewhat useful. 
  17. Like
    Username got a reaction from christer in MTF discrepancy between Lens Rental and Photo Zone (FE 85 1.8)   
    This simply does not matter. Forget about it.
  18. Like
    Username got a reaction from Ilya in Some shots from the mall (Sony a7rII + Leica Summilux 50mm f/1.4 ASPH)   
    `   
       
    Clever use of the possibilities lurking in  
    an unusual environment. Worth at least
    a coupla more sessions for sure !  
       
    `
  19. Like
    Username got a reaction from bigal1000 in Why is my shutter count going up so fast?   
    Sounds like the camera has become aware of your personality. 
  20. Like
    Username got a reaction from mathand1 in Third party lenses   
    Old manual focus lenses are very affordable, even the really
    good ones. Nothing you've posted thus far precludes using
    MF lenses. You can turn that tired cliche on its head and get 
    MORE than you pay for. Don't let the remark about a Pentax 
    300 scare you away. There's definitely something abnormal 
    there. Or mebbe even something VERY normal: User Error !    
      
    BTW, if you do adapt an older lens, you'll be pleased to hear  
    that the a3000 is Sony's only tripod-friendly APS-C E-mount  
    body for users of older heavier lenses. The other models do 
    have a tripod threaded hole, but no one in their right mind is 
    gonna trust those skrawny little base plates to cantilever the 
    off-balance load of a typical heavier older lens. 
       
    200-300mm on your a3000 is definitely tripod territory. But if 
    you really expect to skip the tripod, then you better be ready 
    to pay Sony's price for a native lens with optical stabilization. 
        
    Adapting Canon EF lenses is hardly a budget-wise approach 
    unless you already own the Canon lenses, and even then it's
    a compatibility nightmare ... sometimes, everything EXCEPT
    optical stabilization works. Equally often, nothing at all works.  
      
    Simplest route is the $300 Sony's 55-210 OSS. It's not very
    compact, but it's not heavy at all, and is stabilized. It is also 
    actually sharp ... not a miracle, in that it's of modest aperture. 
    It's Sony's kit tele for buyers of their two-lens kit, so you can
    prolly find a very clean used one from someone who felt too 
    embarrassed to even be seen with it, and quickly upgraded. 
    His loss, your gain :-) 
     
     
       
      
    `
  21. Like
    Username got a reaction from izzikiorage in Vivatar SMS 75-300mm 4.5-5.6 - My latest toy, need tons of advise   
    `   
       
    The camera itself has a laffable [if it weren't so very sad]   
    tripod interface. The idea of an MD adapter with it's own 
    built-in tripod mount is your best bet ... about $90. Other 
    than that, there's always the bean bag method which for 
    many situations can be a most convenient and versatile 
    way to steady a one-touch lens. 
        
    If you're OK messing with odd miscellaneous hardware, 
    other solutions abound ... to wit: 
         

        
    Not YOUR exact solution, but an example of deploying 
    whatever odd bits are available. Altho this lens has its 
    own tripod collar, I also use the same rig to allow using 
    the feeble tripod socket on a Sony APSC body, cuz the 
    rig still provides that support under the lens even when 
    using the camera's tripod socket ... or the tripod socket 
    built into my lens adapter. A very major aspect of what
    you see above is its two-point support, cuz this is used 
    for high magnification and long shutter openings where 
    killing vibrations is the name of the game.  
  22. Like
    Username got a reaction from Chrissie in Vivatar SMS 75-300mm 4.5-5.6 - My latest toy, need tons of advise   
    `   
       
    The camera itself has a laffable [if it weren't so very sad]   
    tripod interface. The idea of an MD adapter with it's own 
    built-in tripod mount is your best bet ... about $90. Other 
    than that, there's always the bean bag method which for 
    many situations can be a most convenient and versatile 
    way to steady a one-touch lens. 
        
    If you're OK messing with odd miscellaneous hardware, 
    other solutions abound ... to wit: 
         

        
    Not YOUR exact solution, but an example of deploying 
    whatever odd bits are available. Altho this lens has its 
    own tripod collar, I also use the same rig to allow using 
    the feeble tripod socket on a Sony APSC body, cuz the 
    rig still provides that support under the lens even when 
    using the camera's tripod socket ... or the tripod socket 
    built into my lens adapter. A very major aspect of what
    you see above is its two-point support, cuz this is used 
    for high magnification and long shutter openings where 
    killing vibrations is the name of the game.  
  23. Like
    Username got a reaction from mathand1 in Manual settings Sony ILCE-3000   
    Sony always posts 2 pdf manuals per model, the short 
    and simple one, and the FULL one. Here's the links for 
    BOTH of them. I haven't read them yet, cuz to me the 
    a3000 is just self-evident in use ... but I know Sony's 
    ways about posting manuals online, so below I posted 
    both of the URLs. The book that fails to inform about
    manual usage is the short "quick start" book, aka the
    "PHD" version [Push here, Dummy.] 
     
    docs.sony.com/release//ILCE3000_Handbook.pdf        docs.sony.com/release//ILCE3000.pdf         Read page 59 of the HANDBOOK [longer book]. It's all  quite plain right there and is really easy. Enjoy !               `     `    `
  24. Like
    Username got a reaction from mathand1 in Manual settings Sony ILCE-3000   
    `
    Almost no one, other than both of us, has an a3000. 
    Your typical Sony fanboi has never even heard of it. 
      
    What with the fewer dials, and especially considering 
    that it cannot do back-button AF, I don't use any Sony 
    lenses on it. Using old Nikkors the aperture control is
    is by the ring on the lens where god himself intended 
    it to be, so the camera's sole dial controls the shutter.   
         
    My lenses are 50 yrs old and are great for MF. OTOH 
    it's not my only camera, so the limitations are not any 
    hardship. If I need a more high tech camera and lens 
    I do have those on hand. The a3000 is a spare body. 
       
    Due to its lack of features, the user manual is shorter 
    than the typical lengthy tomes, so you really ought to 
    get fully familiar with it. 
  25. Like
    Username got a reaction from mathand1 in Manual settings Sony ILCE-3000   
    To do that, select "Manual", aka "M-Mode". M-mode does not set 
    the exposure for the user. You'll hafta learn use of the light meter.   
       
    Perhaps the use of the meter is what you meant by saying that it 
    "seems a bit of a task!" ? That "task" comes with the territory. You 
    wanna set both exposure controls yourself ? How do you know to 
    choose a combination that results in a useful exposure ? You use 
    the meter as your guide. 
       
    Or mebbe you're referring to the 3000's scarcity of dials ? It does 
    have fewer control wheels than other models. That creates a less 
    than convenient situation. The a3000 is a good quality, affordable 
    camera, but more dials costs more money, if build quality is not to 
    be compromised instead. 
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