Jump to content

cws

Members
  • Content Count

    93
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

cws last won the day on October 16 2017

cws had the most liked content!

About cws

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling

Recent Profile Visitors

419 profile views
  1. Still loving my A7R2.... just finished a surfing trip to Maldives aboard a boat for 10 days... we were parked a fair distance from the surf break and longest lens I had was my FE 4/70-200 G OSS. While I got some OK shots I could crop into... nothing was close enough. I borrowed our surf guide's Tamron SP 150-600mm F/5-6.3 Di VC USD G2 A022 with Canon mount and used it on my Metabones EF-E mount....... even at 600mm there was still a lot of wasted real estate in the pixels, and although I used a monopod to carry the weight, it was very hard to stop even tiniest movements on a rocking boat... but still managed to get some magic for my mates when I wasn't surfing. Original frame reduced to 10% size, and then crop into 1:1 frame to 1800x1200px. 1/800th sec, f11, auto ISO 800, manual focus trying to lock into the distant area for faster shooting (although automatic focus still worked) Probably should have stayed at at least 1000th sec. Very happy I got some useable closer shots.... older blokes can still have a lot of fun!
  2. Been running open-memories hack on 2 x A7Rii's for the past 12 months... no problems whatsover. Great having >30min video recording.
  3. Are you on windows? Probably works the same in a mac...... see my post 2 above yours... no need to open a terminal window first. "Windows version: Just drag the file you want to know about from a browser onto this icon... it'll open a command window with the exif information all there for you! very nice indeed! Assume it would be the same for mac version...." 1. Open 2 x file browser windows, one showing the exiftool(-k).exe "camel" icon, the other the latest image file from your camera. 2. drag the image file onto the "camel" icon... at this point I get a popup window asking me to verify I want the tool to run (probably just work's security stuff)... hit RUN 3. WAIT.... WAIT.... WAIT..... eventually a terminal window opens with all the info you wanted in it....
  4. Never a problem with mine or my work's A7R2's.... also run with >30min hack.
  5. handles mp4's.... or so it says on the website. link is still good, at least for me... here it is again... http://grauonline.de/cms2/?page_id=5#download "Our repair utility can repair and fix broken or damaged video files (MOV, MP4, 3GP, M4V) that do not play in your media player. What exactly means REPAIR? Repair means that only video and audio portions can be repaired that are not lost: On some of your corrupt files, it MAY NOT repair anything at all, on some files it MAY repair some video portions, and on some other files it MAY repair both video and audio portions (It fully depends on the grade of corruption)." good luck, whatever you do...
  6. Just took a look at this tool.... actually no programming skills required at all... what a very useful little program! Birder52... just download the Windows program file exiftool-10.86.zip (5.9 MB) or MacOS Package: ExifTool-10.86.dmg (2.7 MB) and unzip it into same folder, or wherever you like to keep programs. You'll see a file with a little "camel" icon and filename exiftool(-k).exe Windows version: Just drag the file you want to know about from a browser onto this icon... it'll open a command window with the exif information all there for you! very nice indeed! Assume it would be the same for mac version....
  7. have a look at this thread.. might help? http://www.sonyalphaforum.com/topic/8073-corrupted-mts-files/
  8. On their website at says.. "*1 As of November 2017, Remote Shooting using Imaging Edge is not supported. Use Remote Camera Control instead." So I guess its not you.. but thanks for the heads-up it exists!
  9. no idea why, but I question... why are you changing shutter speed for a video shoot? Yes, there may be valid reasons to do it, but only if you know why you want to change it... normally just leave it 1/50th (PAL) or 1/60th (NTSC) modes. And never change it while the camera is running..... Are you trying to change shutter speed while it is shooting?
  10. Hi Kelly. Don't have an answer but just wanted to clarify..... as I've not heard of a camera changing it's setup previously, unless someone else has played with it. What are you expecting it to be when you turn on the camera? I assume you are in NTSC mode, rather than PAL mode. cheers....
  11. As Jeff above mentioned, it's not necessarily "normal" and probably is dependent on what NLE (non-linear editor) you are using as to whether it recognises it as high frame-rate footage and plays it back at the "project" rate (eg 30fps/25fps/24fps), or just plays it back as though it it is 120fps so you see the action in "normal" time, as if the project rate was 120fps. A simple video program might automatically slow down the action in playback, as Chrissie notes... whereas something likes Resolve doesn't. What editing program are you using for your footage?
  12. A downscale shouldn't alter colour in any way, unless you've changed the colour gamut and gamma somehow. Colour should be identical in both versions.
  13. that's probably normal for the camera. In your video editing software you usually have to set up a project frame rate (eg 25fps) so that when you import the 100 fps clip it knows how to play it back, then you get your slo-mo.
  14. Hi Lucas, What you are seeing is the combined images of the odd & even fields of an interlaced video frame (eg 1080-50i (PAL), 1080-60i (NTSC)) when you try to look at it as a still frame. Always much more noticeable on fast-moving images. If you want to pull stills from a video clip then you should shoot in a Progressive frame mode (eg 1080-25p (PAL), 1080-30p (NTSC), otherwise you will have to de-interlace your footage first. It's all pretty well explained here: https://www.videomaker.com/courses/699/how-to-deinterlace-footage ;D
×
×
  • Create New...