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My wife and I just returned from a tour we led for 2 weeks in Patagonia (Argentina & Chile sides). Here is an early morning sunrise image taken on the Chilean side.

I took this photo during blue hour in Friesland (a province in the north of the Netherlands). Shot with: A7III + 16-35 F/4 2 photos - 10s - F/13 - ISO 100

We had the refurbished "Flying Scotsman" steam train through our county today and I took my Father-in-law who is 89yrs old to see it, he has only ever seen it in a museum not live on the railway. We were lucky as it remained dry even if a little dull after days of continuous rain. A fantastic sight and a real please to be able to grab some photos of it under steam!

Hi, many forums and the "pros" once were certain that the star eater issue makes the Sony A7 Series unusable for astrophotography but I always had good results with my Sony A7rII. So I recently went ahead and had it astromodified. The thick IR-Block Filterglas was replaced with a thin Baader substitute that lets IR Light down to the h-alpha line and the sII line through to the sensor with high transmission. The results can be seen in detail on my google drive link here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SrdJ7tJbEUwN5KcbXsfpKaesq8KltzmY/view?usp=sharing I could write a lot of things that make the A7rII not the perfect camera for astro but suffice to say, it is still bloody capable. Cheers and CS, Ben - Instagram - AstroBin Technical stuff: Acquisition: Imaging telescope or lens : Meade SN-8 Imaging camera : Sony a7rII astro modified Focal reducer : TeleVue ParaCorr PLU1106 Filter : STC Cyclops Optics STC Astro Duo-Narrowband Filter Dates : May 28, 2020 Frames : STC Cyclops Optics STC Astro Duo-Narrowband Filter : 39x300" ISO640 Integration : 3.2 hours Darks : ~50 Flats : ~50 Avg. Moon age : 5.67 days Avg. Moon phase : 32.16% Bortle Dark-Sky Scale : 8.00 Processing was done with Adobe Lightroom Classic CC, Aries Productions Astro Pixel Processor APP and Adobe Photoship CC 2018. Stacked with sigma kappa clipping 3/1. Light pollution could not be removed automatically in A.P.P. and had to be done manually in Lightroom with local adjustments and a lot of fiddling. Both images have reduced star sizes with a minimum filter applied to masked stars. The masked stars color’s were also tweaked in order to bring them close to the feel of a normal broadband rgb distribution with colors between either aqua and blue or yellow and orange. I did however not manage to create a mask that includes the faintest and smallest of stars. If you look closely you see how the star colors are a little off, the smaller the stars get

The photograph was take. In Pineland FL with a7Riv and a 16-35 2.8.

both photos: a7rIII, FE 600mm f/4 GM Sacramento County California

I had an extended stopover of 16 hours on my way from Seoul to the UK so utilised it by spending some time in the city. Scouted around a bit ready for twilight, was feeling poorly due to a heavy cold, so didn't see as much as I would have liked. Sony A7r4 FE 24 - 70 GM Twilight Across the Bay Doha by singingsnapper, on Flickr Doha Twilight by singingsnapper, on Flickr BW Islamic art gallery, Doha by singingsnapper, on Flickr

Chordeiles nacunda Sony A7R3 and Sony FE 100-400 GM

Sony A9 with Canon 400mm F4 DO II and Metabones V adapter. (www.larrywongphotography.com)

Sony A7R3 + Batis 85

Using sony a7r3 + sony fe 100-400

A6000 with kit 16-50 @44mm f6.3 30 sec 100 iso #sonyalphagallery

A beautiful morning reflection after sunrise of Fitz Roy. We did a 7 hour roundtrip hike up for sunrise and afternoon shots. This was shot on the way down the mountain. Sony A1, Sony 24-70mm F2.8 II. Geff

Watch your head when shooting at the moon with your Sony SEL200600G! Please don't bump your head when you go on a photographic dream trip to the moon with your Sony equipment... The crop shows all the wildness of the southern lunar hemisphere with the picturesquely illuminated crater rims of Clavius (center of image), Tycho (upper left) or Moretus and Newton (lower right). Taken with the Sony A7R iii, the SEL200600G 200-600nm telephoto zoom and a SEL20TC 2x teleconverter. To eliminate the air flicker 950 frames (each 1/200s exposure time, ISO-400 at 1.200mm focal length @ F13, taken using interval shots of the camera (1s interval)) were taken and teh best 10% processed in the free software packages PIPP and Autostakkert, finally sharpened in RegiStax and slight brightness adjustments in Photoshop.

On my local lake -Sony a9 + 200-600mmmlens

I'll go first.. shot with RX10 IV _DSC0396 by Dylan Nguyen, on Flickr

I was out birding in Indiana when I saw these two in a creek. I thought they were muskrats, but nope, Otters. My first.

Hello folks, I have further improved my approach to photographing bright celestial objects. Jupiter Sony A7R iii 525x1/60s ISO-400 1200mm F13 If you are interested, here is the description:

The plejades (M45), reflexion and no emission nebulae, but I like them (Sony SEL200600G on A6000 28x120s ISO-800 F6.3 @900mm 35mm equivalent 5xDarks 26xFlats 20x Bias):

In the meantime, I bought a Sony A7R camera used on E-Bay and then had it astromodified (IR blocking filter removed and replaced with clear glass). With it, I was able to shoot some reflection nebulae with my Sony SEL200600G zoom lens. The orion and running-man nebula (Composit 10x10s and 30x180s ISO-800 F6.3 @600mm 7xDarks 15xFlats 15xBias Optolong L-Pro Filter):

Sony α9 + fe 100-400mm GM

Crow just wouldnt let the Osprey go enjoy his lunch in peace! #sonyalphagallery

White Pelican, Colorado A9, 200-600mm ISO 125

Did not realize how hard it is to get these little guys in focus! Barn Swallow: A7rIV Sony 200-600 G

Aaron Duke Colorado Springs, CO, USA Sony a7R III Sony FE 16-35mm F2.8 GM 1/320 sec, f/7.1, ISO 100

Sony A9 2 with 200-600 lens.

In addition to the photographic merit, of course: as a biker, I like the way how this bird is doing a curved flight, yet keeping his head perfectly aligned with the horizon. Pretty much like motorcyclists do it, too. Image source: http://www.ridesmart.info/img/blogs/leaning diagram.jpg

all: a7rIII, 600mm f/4 GM

Here is a portrait of an Andean Condor (juvenile male), taken with a7R III, Sigma MC-11 and Sigma 150-600 Sport on the "camino de las altas cumbres", Cordoba province, Argentina And you can view it with more definition here: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49451148336_ea99a3577b_k.jpg

Sony ILCE-7RM3 Sigma 150-600mm F5-6.3 DG OS HSM | Contemporary 015

Buteogallus meridionalis Sony A7R3 + Sony FE 100-400

A7Riii 100-400GM@400mm F5.6 1/500th ISO1600

Pacific Black ducks enliven a cold dull morning. Australia. A9 & FE 200-600mm

Booted Racket-tail

Its not just the sunny days and clear water that's unbelievable in the Maldives! Clear, pollution free skies provide a canopy of stars every night! #sonyalphagallery

Samy, first I highly recommend that you view the excellent videos posted on Youtube by Mark Galer. He has a specific one on saving the camera settings to the memory locations that correspond with the 1, 2, and 3 on the Mode dial. But let me briefly point you in the right direction. First, the numbered positions (1, 2, 3) on the Mode dial refer to memory locations where you can save nearly all of this cameras abundance of settings. It is a huge number of settings, not just 1. So I won't list them all here. Note, though, that it includes the "Mode" that was in use when you saved the camera's settings. For example, if you were in "A" mode when you saved the camera's settings for "1" then when you turn the dial to "1" the camera will be in "A" mode. When you switch to 1 or 2 or 3 on the Mode dial, you are resetting all of the settings in the camera that were in place when you "saved" to "1". This "saving" operation is performed by going to the first Camera menu, the 3rd page and the look at the second option from the bottom. But before you go there you need to make ALL of the camera settings exactly as you want them to be when you turn the dial to "1". Once the camera settings are saved to "1" (or "2" or "3") the next time you turn the Mode dial to that number ALL of the camera settings will be restored to the state that they were when you saved them. You can of course change the settings while remaining in the Mode. But once you turn the dial to A or S or M or P and go back to, say 1, all the saved settings will again be restored. You do not save settings for the numbered Modes simply by changing the setting while in that Mode. It must be done with the menu item I pointed out. And it will apply to all settings on the camera. This is a very powerful capability and I'll explain how I use it in just a moment. But first, I suggest not using the terminology "C1 or C2". In the Sony world, that terminology applies to the 4 customer buttons you can setup in various ways. (Again, I suggest you go through Mark Galer's video tutorials.) How I use Modes 1, 2 and 3. Since each of these modes applies to nearly all of the settings on the camera, I have arranged them for specific and very different types of shooting. I use 1 for Landscape shooting with a tripod, I use 2 for Action shooting (sports, wildlife) and I use 3 for Portrait shooting which I do very rarely. When I am just walking around I typically have the mode set to A and a lot of other things different. Here is how it works. The first thing I did is set up the camera - all the settings that were required - to the setting I want for Landscape on a tripod. Mode is set to Manual, Aperture to 9, ISO to 100, Steady Shot is turned off, Focus is set to DMF and so on. (I used Mark Galer's suggestions as a starting point.) Once the camera was set up the way I like for this situation then I go to the the Menu, Camera 1, 2nd page and near the bottom click on MR blah blah Memory. I am then presented with a confirmation screen for all of the camera's settings that will be saved. Assuming I agree with those setting I select the memory location from the choices across the top (1, 2, 3, etc.). (Ignore the M1, M2, M3, M4 for now). Then hit Enter and all of those camera settings are saved. Now that I have setup (for me) Mode 1 for Landscape, every time I want to shoot a Landscape/tripod shot, I simply switch the Mode dial to 1. I can trust that all the settings are the way I want - this includes being in Manual mode. I can of course alter them while shooting. For example I can change the aperture. BUT, the changes I make while shooting in Mode 1 do not change what is saved for Mode 1. Should I leave Mode 1 and them come back, all of the settings will be back to what I saved for Mode 1. So I am always at the same starting point. If I want to change a saved setting in Mode 1, I must save it again. (This is actually quite easy. Go to Mode 1 which resets everything to what was most recently save in Mode 1, then change the setting you want to "semi-permanently" save, then go to the Menu Camera1 operation that you did to originally save those settings and do it again. All of your settings will be saved again but because you only changed one setting only that one will look different when you go back to Mode 1.) Also note that if you are in Mode A for example and you go to Mode 1. When you return to Mode A the camera's settings will be put back to the way they were when you were previously in Mode A. In other words, once you leave Mode 1 your camera settings are returned to what they were before you entered Mode 1. It can seem complicated but once you get it set up it is awesome.

I'm a regular Nikon shooter who recently had the opportunity to try out the Sony A9 and I must say, I fell in love with the camera within 24 hours of use. I have now added one to my kit. I like to make videos of my photography adventures and thought I would share my 1st Sony video here. If linking to videos is not allowed in the forum, I apologize in advance! https://youtu.be/QN3Ys-j4twg I've also attached my favorite image from the shoot!

Victoria by Ilya Artemiev, on Flickr Leica Summilux-M 50mm f/1.4 ASPH Sony a7rii

Out again today to take more photos with the 70-300 and I am very happy with the colours and the results.

Canon 7D ll w/400 5.6

This is a mixed media relaxing waterfall film featuring a blend of time lapse, 29.97 4K video, and 120fps slow motion video. It was shot with a Sony A7RII, and Sony A7SII.

Shoot with A7RIII + Sony 55

sixzeiss and Jaf, Thanks for your guidance. As mentioned earlier I had opened aperture to "max", but also made other changes as well, so not possible for me to attribute improvements to which change. Using AF-C Wide, while turning off: face recognition, Lock On, and "expand flexible spot" seemed to really improve the speed of focus capture, and these three items plus wide open aperture taken in total have made a big difference to the speed of acquisition, and sharpness of focus. I like the idea of manual focus for stationary birds, but do find the "flexible spot (s)" to allow me to isolate the bird to the extend that auto focus works very well. Manual is certainly a "back up" that will deal with problematic situations, and I have taken your advice to turn peaking down to low, and color red. I've also customized a button to magnify, and find that very useful. Great forum - very helpful. Thanks!