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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/25/2021 in all areas

  1. quigsby

    River Otter surprise

    I was out birding in Indiana when I saw these two in a creek. I thought they were muskrats, but nope, Otters. My first.
    3 points
  2. A7R3a (I bought another one) and 100-400 FE
    2 points
  3. mishon82

    lightning

    #sonyalphagallery
    2 points
  4. Hi - welcome to the alpha adventure. I am UK, Eastbourne. Love my a7iii and a7riii. enjoy. @carlslezacekphotography if you want to connect.
    2 points
  5. isha1

    Stormy Sunrise

    Cabo San Lucas, Baja California Sur, Mexico. Sony A7, Tamron 28-300mm 1850 f8 1/30 sec iso 500
    2 points
  6. I think I found the answer for those who might be facing the same "issue"! Apparently there is a new version of the A7RIII out with product name ILCE-7RM3A vs. the older ILCE-7RM3 (note the A vs. no A at the end). I see the ILCE-7RM3A product code under my camera - I recently bought it. I never knew about this and kept landing on the ILCE-7RM3 firmware download page, little did I know there is a separate firmware download page for ILCE-7RM3A, but his page does not have any new firmware currently. Perhaps ILCE-7RM3A already has all updates from the previous ILCE-7RM3 camera firmware?? This is quite interesting. Apparently Sony made some minor improvements in ILCE-7RM3A over the older version, most notably a higher res back LCD screen and the Sony label removed at the bottom of the back screen. ILCE-7RM3A firmware download page: https://www.sony.com/electronics/support/e-mount-body-ilce-7-series/ilce-7rm3a/downloads ILCE-7RM3 firmware download page: https://www.sony.com/electronics/support/e-mount-body-ilce-7-series/ilce-7rm3/downloads The same seems to apply to the A7RIV too. An interesting read on the topic:https://www.dpreview.com/news/8756997638/sony-quietly-updates-the-a7r-iii-a7r-iv-with-improved-lcd-displays
    2 points
  7. XKAES

    Filter vs No Filter

    It's only "controversial" to people who want it to be controversial. To people like yourself, and myself -- who have test results -- it's not. That's like saying the COVID vaccine is controversial. It only is to the people who choose to put their lives at risk! I have UV filters on all of my lenses -- not just to reduce UV light (which is a bigger deal for film than digital sensors) but to protect my lens glass. Thanks for your test results, anyway!
    2 points
  8. Which nation? Japan? China?Iraq? U.S.A.? Russia?
    2 points
  9. This is a Blue Jay John
    2 points
  10. In the second section I would like to discuss the possibility of photographing deep sky objects. To achieve exposure times of a few seconds the earth's rotation has to be compensated, in my case by the equatorial mount CEM25P from iOptron. With the possibility of autoguiding, here by the MGEN3 from Lacerta in combination with a 50mm finder scope, exposure times of several minutes can be achieved. Seemingly small things are also important in my opinion, like a heating tape to avoid humidity condensation and the use of a dummy battery adapter to be able to run the camera constantly for several hours. Emission and reflection nebulae With the possibility to select the focal length almost arbitrarily between 200 and 1800mm, very many objects can be photographed with the SEL200600G. For emission nebulae with a primary emission at hydrogen-alpha and 656nm the use of an astromodified camera is recommended (replacement of the IR cut filter by clear glass). In my case I took a Sony A7R bought used at E-Bay and let it astromodify. Orion nebula M42 Composit 10x10s and 30x180s ISO-800 F6.3 600mm 7xDarks 15xFlats 15xBias Optolong L-Pro Filter Plejades M45 28x120s ISO-800 F6.3 600mm 5xDarks 26xFlats 20xBias Galaxies The same applies analogously to galaxies as to planetary photography. It is possible to photograph single galaxies. However, the optic is not fast and not long-wavelength enough for very detailed images. Markajan chain 102x240s ISO-800 600mm F6.3 6xDarks 15xFlats 15xBias M51 110x120s ISO-1600 1200mm F13 7xDarks 15xFlats 15xBias
    2 points
  11. Finally got to process one, My buddy THOR. Taken with a Canon 55MM f1.4 M39 screw mount. 1/60 f4 ISO 1600.
    2 points
  12. Hamburg Photography How i see the City https://www.instagram.com/94arts_/ https://www.instagram.com/94arts_2.0/
    2 points
  13. I am overjoyed to say that I LiveShots suggestion has paid off and I can now take a photo again without having to set the language I want the photo in first. I will give Sony another chance after all! Strangely it appears that 3rd party batteries may work just as the originals as far as taking pictures are concerned but that is not the case for charging the internal battery. I have so many batteries that I use interchangeably that I didn’t even consider it a factor, and why it shoudl make a difference is is still a complete mystery, but I am just happy that an overnight charge using the genuine sony battery seems to have done the trick after everything else failed. I think I may get a few more official batteries. So glad I found this out before I sent the camera in for repair. Thanks everyone for your help.
    2 points
  14. Golden eagle from Bulgaria...
    2 points
  15. I always laugh at these envy posts. I see them in every forum pertaining to every single subject under the sun. Are YOU using your camera to the fullest? Do you “deserve” your camera? The amazing and very successful Steven Soderbergh made a multi-million dollar feature film on an iPhone. So I guess if you haven’t done that, you don’t deserve ANY Sony Alpha camera. I don’t have the money to buy an A1, but if I did, I would. Know why? Because I want it! Why are you concerned with how other people spend their money?
    2 points
  16. Hi, many forums and the "pros" once were certain that the star eater issue makes the Sony A7 Series unusable for astrophotography but I always had good results with my Sony A7rII. So I recently went ahead and had it astromodified. The thick IR-Block Filterglas was replaced with a thin Baader substitute that lets IR Light down to the h-alpha line and the sII line through to the sensor with high transmission. The results can be seen in detail on my google drive link here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SrdJ7tJbEUwN5KcbXsfpKaesq8KltzmY/view?usp=sharing I could write a lot of things that make the A7rII not the perfect camera for astro but suffice to say, it is still bloody capable. Cheers and CS, Ben - Instagram - AstroBin Technical stuff: Acquisition: Imaging telescope or lens : Meade SN-8 Imaging camera : Sony a7rII astro modified Focal reducer : TeleVue ParaCorr PLU1106 Filter : STC Cyclops Optics STC Astro Duo-Narrowband Filter Dates : May 28, 2020 Frames : STC Cyclops Optics STC Astro Duo-Narrowband Filter : 39x300" ISO640 Integration : 3.2 hours Darks : ~50 Flats : ~50 Avg. Moon age : 5.67 days Avg. Moon phase : 32.16% Bortle Dark-Sky Scale : 8.00 Processing was done with Adobe Lightroom Classic CC, Aries Productions Astro Pixel Processor APP and Adobe Photoship CC 2018. Stacked with sigma kappa clipping 3/1. Light pollution could not be removed automatically in A.P.P. and had to be done manually in Lightroom with local adjustments and a lot of fiddling. Both images have reduced star sizes with a minimum filter applied to masked stars. The masked stars color’s were also tweaked in order to bring them close to the feel of a normal broadband rgb distribution with colors between either aqua and blue or yellow and orange. I did however not manage to create a mask that includes the faintest and smallest of stars. If you look closely you see how the star colors are a little off, the smaller the stars get
    2 points
  17. I'm not familiar with Windows computers. I just download my card to "photos" and click the button to delete after download. This keeps my memory cards clean. EXIF details including date and time are attached and thumbnails show as miniatures of the photo. Whenever I have encountered Windows computers I have always been struck by how complicated they make simple operations. As for software for stills, I don't have any Adobe stuff, but use Luminar Ai, which is simple to use and relatively cheap to buy.(very good for removing distortion and weird angles that Wide angle lenses often portray - not what you want for real estate photographs.) I can't telly about video software - as I don't shoot video.
    1 point
  18. What does a picture without white balance even look like?
    1 point
  19. Makelove

    Hello there

    Thanks a lot!
    1 point
  20. Point your mouse to your avatar and click on Find Content. You will see all of your post made thus far.
    1 point
  21. Did the camera hit the ground first or the lens? Was it in a case? How far did it drop? Do ALL functions appear to work correctly? Do you have a different lens to try? You haven't given us much to work on. Perhaps you should change your ID from Brokeh to Broken.
    1 point
  22. There seems to be an expectation that Chinese equipment is always either a "knock off" of Euro/Japanese/American designs or cheap quality. However, this is not always the case. Laowa Venus are producing some novel lenses of very good quality and I'm also impressed with my Leofoto tripod and monopod.
    1 point
  23. You are mostly correct. For all practical purposes and intents, a 35mm f/0.95 lens on an APS-C camera will give the same depth of field and field of view as a 50mm f/1.4 on a fullframe camera. The ISO-performance of a fullframe camera is also only about 1 stop better than an APS-C camera with the same amount of megapixels. So e.g. a FF-camera with a 50mm lens at f/1.4, 1/100 sec shutter speed and ISO800 produces roughly the same depth of field, field of view and noise performance as an APS-C camera with a 35mm lens at f/0.95, 1/100sec and ISO400. However: the cheap 35mm lens will likely produce absolutely crap quality images at f/0.95. So unless you're into that 'arty dreamy look' of blurry images that are a hazy mess, your money is best invested elsewhere. By the way, the new Laowa 33mm f/0.95 seems to be pretty good stopped down, but that wasn't your intent: https://www.lenstip.com/index.php?test=obiektywu&test_ob=615
    1 point
  24. I m facing the same issue, Help anyone
    1 point
  25. Welcome to our forum !
    1 point
  26. That is a convenience none of us DSLT/mirrorless-users can ever enjoy.
    1 point
  27. Telephoto lenses let in less light. In Aperture Priority mode the camera will adjust shutter speed and ISO to accommodate your chosen aperture. Make sure ISO is set to Auto and that it has a high maximum, the smaller the aperture that you are setting, the higher the maximum ISO needs to be. If it reaches the high ISO level then the camera will use a slower shutter speed. https://helpguide.sony.net/ilc/1950/v1/en/contents/TP0002670799.html?search=ISO auto
    1 point
  28. So, should this thread be taken down? Or if it is to be relevant, a new version posted?
    1 point
  29. It might be that the sensor itself is dirty? Initially try the sensor cleaning mode with no lens attached and pointing down. If this doesn't work, you can inspect the sensor by flipping the translucent mirror out of the way. To do this, have no lens fitted, at the bottom of the mirror, in the middle, there is a little metal tab. Press this down and the mirror flips up to reveal the sensor. If it looks dirty you have a choice of getting it cleaned professionally, or risking cleaning it yourself. Start with a blower before moving onto a sensor cleaning brush. (the mirror is very fragile, so try to avoid touching it.) To get brighter shots in-camera remember you have the +/- (EV) button next to your ISO button. I find my A68 still works really well and I use it a lot for wildlife as the cropped sensor gives me more "reach" than my A99.
    1 point
  30. The Meike 35mm F/1.7 is a fully manual 'dumb' lens, meaning it won't communicate with your camera. All settings have to be set manually and your camera won't know what aperture value or focus distance you set on the lens, and consequently won't show an aperture value on the screen. All your camera knows is the light exposure of the sensor, and it will set shutter speed and ISO accordingly for correct exposure. All in all, working as intended.
    1 point
  31. With most third party lenses the aperture and focus must be set at the lens. Compatible does not necessarily mean the camera can control the lens. If the lens supports autofocus the camera might be able to control the aperture, too.
    1 point
  32. SvH

    UAZ Hunter

    Sony 7RM4 + FE 24-105 1/60 сек f / 16 ISO 100
    1 point
  33. Goodmorning everyone, I recently buoght an sony alpha A6400 used to video streaming. I knew that the A5100 permitted to do video with soft skin effect turned ON. If I put the camera in video mode the effect isn't available, if I put it in photo mode the HDMI quality goes down. Do you know a way to use soft skin effect on video? Thank at all in advance.
    1 point
  34. LiveShots

    Α1 Problem

    Update: B&H have accepted my return and will be shipping me a new α1 once they receive the next shipment. I think the next batch arrives on 5th April so hopefully less than 2 weeks before I can start shooting photos again.
    1 point
  35. I used manual setting for aperture and shutter speed. And, auto ISO. John
    1 point
  36. After years of searching and spending many $, I finally found a camera case that works for older people with back problems who hike a lot with heavy equipment. This sling bag can be used on either shoulder. But, the really big advantage to it is the waist belt. It completely takes all of the weight off your shoulder and transfers it to your hips. Backpacks have waist belts, but they are inconvenient to get a camera in and out of quickly. With the this sling I can carry my A7C or A7RIV with a 70-300 mm lens, 24-70 mm lens, water bottle, and accessories. Think Tank Photo Urban Access 10 Sling Bag (Black) BH #THUAS10 • MFR #710469 https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1509729-REG/think_tank_photo_710469_urban_access_10_sling.html John
    1 point
  37. Its not camera specific. So search for the battery name not the camera. The zv1 only came out recently so they have not updated the descriptions on camera compatibility. I think when first connecting the camera to the main outlet, the camera should be OFF and make sure you have this setting correct. https://helpguide.sony.net/dc/1910/v1/en/contents/TP0002870033.html?search=Power
    1 point
  38. When an Osprey leaves the water it shakes like a dog to shed weight. Sony A7R IV with Sony FE 400 mm F2.8 GM +1.4 Teleconverter 1/3200 Second at ISO 1250
    1 point
  39. thebeardedgroundsman

    Isolation

    Anyone got photos capturing the feeling of Isolation? Here's my effort. Taken in Vesterålen Norway.
    1 point
  40. One of the most difficult birds I've ever photographed in flight. The Belted Kingfisher, shot on Pine Island in Florida using the a9ii and the FE G 200-600mm
    1 point
  41. 1 point
  42. ISO 6400 will indeed result in blotchy/grainy images with little sharpness. Since you were shooting in a controlled environment off a tripod, I kind off assumed you were at ISO 100 and let the shutter speed be as slow as needed for proper exposure.
    1 point
  43. Camera: Sony a7Riv with the 400mm 2.8 and a 1.4x Extender. Distance was probably 40 feet. ISO 8000 f/6.3 1/3200
    1 point
  44. The readout speed of the silent shutter of the A9 is about 3 times as fast as any of the other Sony Alpha cameras (and pretty much any other fullframe camera available at this moment, Canon and Nikon included). This helps a lot in reducing flicker/striping and makes it pretty much the only fullframe camera available that can be used reliably with silent shutter. With the A9, only very high frequency lighting (like some LED billboards) will cause significant banding. Not exactly sure how this affects video but for photography it should fix most of your issues.
    1 point
  45. Okay I figured it out. DRO was off but it seams gamma specifically in picture profiles messes up exposure. PP itself should have no impact on RAWs but only gamma inside PP plays a role so after switching PP off from PP8 (slog3 where gamma is different than PP off on default) I was able to get same exposed RAWs as when shot which is how it should be. So Picture profile was to blame. Thanks for all advices lads and hopefully this will serve someone with similar issue
    1 point
  46. I'm using filters on my lenses for the following reasons: - If you buy good quality filters, the impact on the optical quality of the lens in my opinion is negligible (like 0.3% light loss and almost zero additional ghosting/flare). - I clean my lenses quite often. Even when first blowing/brushing off dust before a wet wipe, you'll inadvertedly cause abrasion on the front element. In time, the degradation of the coating on this element will have adverse effects on image quality as well. Replacing a front filter is cheap, replacing a front lens element not so much. - Don't expect the filter glass to protect your front element from a direct impact with a solid object, but having some metal ring protruding beyond the front element certainly helps in keeping it from harm. A lot of impact energy can be dissipated by the deformation of the filter ring before wrecking the front of your lens. Always keeping the lens hood on also helps here. - Resale value: a minor scratch on the front element (e.g. by accidentally rubbing a grain of sand over the lens while cleaning it) won't affect image quality much, but it severely affects resale value. Have a read here, you might find it interesting: https://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2017/06/the-comprehensive-ranking-of-the-major-uv-filters-on-the-market/
    1 point
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