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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/28/2020 in Posts

  1. 3 points

    The Crescent Nebula in Cygnus

    Hi, many forums and the "pros" once were certain that the star eater issue makes the Sony A7 Series unusable for astrophotography but I always had good results with my Sony A7rII. So I recently went ahead and had it astromodified. The thick IR-Block Filterglas was replaced with a thin Baader substitute that lets IR Light down to the h-alpha line and the sII line through to the sensor with high transmission. The results can be seen in detail on my google drive link here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SrdJ7tJbEUwN5KcbXsfpKaesq8KltzmY/view?usp=sharing I could write a lot of things that make the A7rII not the perfect camera for astro but suffice to say, it is still bloody capable. Cheers and CS, Ben - Instagram - AstroBin Technical stuff: Acquisition: Imaging telescope or lens : Meade SN-8 Imaging camera : Sony a7rII astro modified Focal reducer : TeleVue ParaCorr PLU1106 Filter : STC Cyclops Optics STC Astro Duo-Narrowband Filter Dates : May 28, 2020 Frames : STC Cyclops Optics STC Astro Duo-Narrowband Filter : 39x300" ISO640 Integration : 3.2 hours Darks : ~50 Flats : ~50 Avg. Moon age : 5.67 days Avg. Moon phase : 32.16% Bortle Dark-Sky Scale : 8.00 Processing was done with Adobe Lightroom Classic CC, Aries Productions Astro Pixel Processor APP and Adobe Photoship CC 2018. Stacked with sigma kappa clipping 3/1. Light pollution could not be removed automatically in A.P.P. and had to be done manually in Lightroom with local adjustments and a lot of fiddling. Both images have reduced star sizes with a minimum filter applied to masked stars. The masked stars color’s were also tweaked in order to bring them close to the feel of a normal broadband rgb distribution with colors between either aqua and blue or yellow and orange. I did however not manage to create a mask that includes the faintest and smallest of stars. If you look closely you see how the star colors are a little off, the smaller the stars get
  2. 1 point
    ISO-range of A7Riii and A7Riv are the same (100 - 32000), as is the dynamic range: https://www.sonyalpharumors.com/sony-a7riv-versus-a7riii-dynamic-range/ Even though I like the absolute sharpness and detail when I pixel-peep my photo's, it hardly serves a practical purpose. It's like the whole 4k - 6k - 8k discussion in video-world. Yes you'll see the difference if you're sitting at half a meter from your 65" TV, but who does that except the guy who just bought a new TV? What would be an interesting concept though is if there was a native 'low-res' mode incorporated in high-res cameras. If enabled, it would still read the full high-res sensor but downsample the RAW-file to a lower resolution. That way you'd still have the ISO-performance of a full-sensor readout but stored in a lower file size RAW if you don't need all this resolution. I might even consider buying such a camera.
  3. 1 point
    Honestly, why do you need more MP? 24 MP is plenty for any kind of print you may ever want to make if you factor in optimal viewing angle. All these bells and whistles you speak of result in a vastly better image than just boosting the MP-count would (better AF and subject tracking, better low light ISO-performance, etc). Higher MP is just marketing crap unless you plan to heavily crop or print billboard size and stand with your nose against the canvas. For good reason the A7x you refer to has actually stuck with 24 MP ever since the first version. It's the A7Rx line which has received MP boosts because this line is ment for just that purpose: absolute best image quality despite bigger file size and more noise on pixel level. It's ment for those people who plan to crop their images or print billboard-size. Here's one hoping Sony's future A6XXX-camera will still have 24 MP but even better AF and (dare I say) 1-2 stops better ISO-performance.
  4. 1 point
    hallo to everybody! i made this relaxing video of a magical place in the woods at north Greece. Place located at Palia Kavala village into the mountain. waterfall isnt the greatest but the trail is something else! enjoy !
  5. 1 point

    BIF wing movement aberration

    I have a problem with shooting birds where there is wing movement. Its difficult to explain what's happening so please have a look at the attached images. I have two Sony A7iii bodies and it is the same with both. I have had the same problem with both the 70-200 and 200-600. I've tried turning OSS off on the lens. These were both taken using a tripod. They were taken with shutter speeds in excess of 1/1000. I would expect motion blur in the wing tips but certainly not what I am getting. I contacted Sony who suggested I update the firmware but it is still happening. Has anyone come across this or got any suggestions on what else to try?
  6. 1 point
    No, it is not possible. The a6000 does not have that feature. And for the cameras that do... Please note that it is not quite as simple as powering the camera from the USB port. What happens is that the battery powers the camera, and the USB power charges the battery. This means that there must be power in the battery, and it will run down while the camera is being used, just... slower than without the USB power attached. For true external power you need the dummy-battery device for all these cameras.
  7. 1 point
    Depends on what camera. go here and put in your camera, https://www.sony.com/electronics/support There are online Manuals that can be searched
  8. 1 point

    BIF wing movement aberration

    Are you using mechanical or electronic shutter, if the latter this may be the rolling shutter issue that causes things to look weird as the sensor is scanned.
  9. 1 point
    Takes me back fifty years to student days. We got into this habit: one of us would start on some topic we knew little about, we'd flounder around for a few minutes, and end up chorusing, "Buy a book on it!" And hey, very often we did. Those days, there was no internet, no google and no youtube. That was great for the book trade! Have to say, though, that with a new, complex camera, my first instinct is still to get the book. An actual, printed book. I consider it a shame that they don't come with printed manuals any longer. Well, the manual is online, and it certainly should be one of our resources, but it is a dry thing indeed: a set of short technical descriptions with very little about how or why we might want to use (or not use) a setting or function. The books come with added personal experience and advice. Well worth having. Second to that (well, equal, in a way, just a different way) is the wonders of youtube. There will be reviews and tutorials for your camera. Watch several: get different viewpoints on the same stuff. Even watch elementary, beginners stuff about your new camera! Third, for personal contact and specific questions, online forums are hard to beat. But no-one can take you through the whole thing, like a book can, or go deeply into one aspect like a youtube video can.
  10. 1 point
    Any posting any time in this dead forum should be welcome...
  11. 1 point
    Move Exposure modes PASM I don't do video, but I remember seeing this, and dug out my a6000 to check that it is true for this model... In Video mode (video-film symbol on the mode dial) you can change P-A-S-M: Menu: Camera-symbol -> p6 -> item "Movie" Function Menu set: Assign one place to item "Shoot Mode." This would be the easiest regular-access method Either of these bring up an on-screen display from which you chose your desired exposure mode. It is not, as far as I could see, assignable to a customisable button. It isn't on my a6500 either.
  12. 1 point
    Visit my IG for behind-the-scenes and more info: https://www.instagram.com/reynantem/ We can wish, hope, and dream all we want. But unless we’re able to wake up and act, nothing will come true. I'd love to hear what you think about this.
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