Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/12/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    siuma

    COLORFUL SKY

  2. 3 points
    Shebco

    Bush Fire 2020

    #sonyalphagallery
  3. 2 points
    This was one of the first shots of the day shooting near the Edenvale Winery. We didn't have a lot of time to prepare but Khalia was an amazing subject and had wonderful grace and movement. It wasn't easy wrangling that dress but she did a fantastic job. As the birthplace of the Oregon pear industry there were lot of great spots throughout the vineyard and orchard areas, but this one called out to us from the moment we got there. Photo by Raymond Craig ig: @raymondcraig Sony A7RIIITamron 28-75mm at f4Godox flash with Westcott modifier
  4. 2 points
    Was a fun climb down to the shore and an even more fun climb back up, but this is the wreck of the SS Speke just around from Kitty Miller Bay on Phillip Island.. Single shot, last night on my Sony A7m3/Tamron 17-28mm, 20 seconds, ISO4000, f2.8
  5. 2 points
    LiveShots

    Nesting baby bird

    I managed to get rather close to this nesting bird, Animal Eye AF was on. Zooming in on the eye, that reflection (arrowed) is me,
  6. 2 points
    Yes, shooting directly into the sun, especially with a wide aperture, may cause your sensor to be damaged. Actually, you don't even need to be shooting to damage the sensor. This is one of the reasons that the aperture of the lens closes when you turn off the camera: to protect the sensor from direct sunlight when you forget to put the lens cap on. Also, if you're reviewing your photos on camera, the aperture will stay open for some 20 seconds before closing down. During this period take care not to point you camera into the sun as it might cause damage without you even being aware that you're exposing your sensor to intense concentrated light.
  7. 1 point
    siuma

    Before Sunrise.

    ENJOY!
  8. 1 point
    Gicleemedia

    100-400 GM Sports & Wildlife

    The 1.4 TC works very well, especially on the A9. Avoid the cpol because the light loss is great. Ok on a tripod with a 100mm filter system like Nisi or Haida. The 100-400 with tc is the lens of choice for travel when a long zoom is needed, heaps smaller than 200-600 and 400 2.8.
  9. 1 point
    Roy

    100-400 GM Sports & Wildlife

    add the 1.4x works great
  10. 1 point
    Pieter

    A7III with 1635 F2.8 GM

    Your camera settings seem ok so no issue there. Be sure to disable stabilization when shooting from a tripod as your camera will try to compensate for shake that isn't there. This might result in a slight blur. It's quite difficult to assess your photos (am on phone atm). On the second photo it seems to be a depth of field / focus plane issue: the buildings in the back seem sharper than the trees/foliage. Same with the last image: focus seems to be more on the lightpost than on the buildings. Based on the perspective of the last image it seems to be a crop near the corner of the frame. In my opinion it is pretty sharp: corners always lack behind a bit in sharpness but I can still differentiate individual pixels along contrasty edges. When shooting a cityscape at such a distance, atmospheric haze or fog/smog will also deteriorate image sharpness.
  11. 1 point
    Pieter

    Eye AF, struggling with this camera

    I'm not exactly sure but it seems your help reference is outdated: initially it worked like that on the A7(R)III but with a certain firmware update these cameras got a feature called 'real-time Eye-AF', removing the need to press a button to engage Eye-AF.
  12. 1 point
    The are in the private folder on the sd card subfolder CLIP
  13. 1 point
    Pieter

    A7III with 1635 F2.8 GM

    No, it's the other way around: higher resolution will result in more blurry pixels if the initial image wasn't sharp to begin with. Without more details about camera settings like shutter speed and aperture and other conditions like tripod use and subject movement it's totally impossible to guess what might cause unsharp pictures in your case.
  14. 1 point
    Unlike Sony, Canon, Nikon or any of the other mainstream brands that went 100% electronic connections to control everything, Pentax retained the mechanical control over the aperture settings to this day. It never occurred to me to look for a DA to NEX adapter until I saw a picture of a DA to Fujifilm X-mount adapter at another forum. The Haoge adapter I bought from Amazon has a zebra ring around the adapter body which should move the lever inside the adapter side to side. Which in turn would push the aperture control linkage on the lens to open and close the diaphragm. I am wondering whether a DA lens aperture would click into place at every 1/3 or 1/2 stop or will it be like a cine lens without clicks - probably the latter.
  15. 1 point
    SwissRob

    Aperture dial not working

    Hey all just had the same issue and it’s a real easy fix. The click Aperture ring has a red ‘A’ after f/22. Turn it all the way so that this red ‘A’ aligns with the tick mark. all works then.
  16. 1 point
    Shebco

    Bush Fire 2020

    #sonyalphagallery Sorry, I see now that this is the better forum for this one!
  17. 1 point
    Pieter

    100-400 GM on A7III

    Valid argument if that's what you value. Bear in mind though that the DN (= Designed Native) Sigma lenses perform extremely well on Sony bodies, likely much better than they did on your old Canon. Be sure to check Dustin Abbotts thorough review: he compares it head-to-head to the GM on several aspects. Since you mention cost as an aspect in your trade-off it would be a waste to discard the Sigma purely based on a gut feeling. https://dustinabbott.net/2020/06/sigma-100-400mm-f5-6-3-dn-os-review/
  18. 1 point
    Chrissie

    100-400 GM on A7III

    Wildlife fotografy sounds like mostly low-light for me, for which the a7 iii is certainly better suited than my a9. That said, please see my earlier post on the 100400gm plus 2.0tc combo. I would expect kitesurfing to take place mostly in well-lit circumstances, so your odds at getting decent shots would improve. In both cases, I'd recommend the use of a sturdy tripod, to control the effect of hand shake at long focal reaches.
  19. 1 point
    Pieter

    100-400 GM on A7III

    Have you considered the Sigma 100-400 which is about to be released? It's less than half the price of the GM and based on the reviews it's optically quite similar. Afaik it hasn't been verified yet if it's compatible with Sonys 1.4× extender though.
  20. 1 point
    Olaf W.

    Switched from Canon, struggling though !

    Welcome to our forum!
  21. 1 point
    siuma

    After Rain

    Enjoy.
  22. 1 point
    Taher Abouraya

    sony lens adapter

    Some helpful links for example
  23. 1 point
    michelb

    Sony adapter for Sony A3000

    Oui, mais il y en a d'autres moins dispendieux comme: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/MD-NEX-macro-Camera-Lens-Adapter-Ring-for-Minolta-MC-MD-Lens-to-for-Sony-NEX-5-7/223502463447?hash=item3409c8f1d7:g:V1oAAOSwl8Vcy7kK ou plus cher mais de qualité un peu supérieure comme les Novoflex Un guide relativement complet sur quoi regarder: https://phillipreeve.net/blog/adapters-manual-lenses-sony-a7-series-guide/https://phillipreeve.net/blog/adapters-manual-lenses-sony-a7-series-guide/
  24. 1 point
    michelb

    Sony adapter for Sony A3000

    None of the above, You need an independently made MD/SR to NEX E-Mount adapter All of the Sony adapters you mention were for use with Minolta or Sony's A-Mount ( Autofocus) lenses
  25. 1 point
    ND: Depending on the blocking factor of the filter, an ND-filter blocks 50% up to virtually all light. This works similar to closing the aperture when determining the light intensity of the sun projected onto your sensor. CPL: A polarization filter blocks about 50% of the light from the sun, so your sensor will still be at (a slightly reduced) risk. UV: No effect: there already is a UV-filter on your sensor. Stacking these hardly affects light intensity on the sensor.
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
    Roy

    Megachile Bee

    From the album: Wildlife

  28. 1 point
    Roy

    A wet Bee

    From the album: Wildlife

  29. 1 point
    What bothers me with people like you is the following: you don't really want to _LEARN_ something. You are not interested in becoming smarter after an exchange. All you are looking for is a quick recipe to _consume_ , preferably without gaining any understanding whatsoever. Well, good luck with that. No more recipes from side. Over and out.
  30. 1 point
    What the bloody hell keeps you from contemplating the good answer you already got? Why don't you follow that train of thought laid out in my previous answer? It's people like you that keep me wondering if it's really worth while the effort I put into my answers to newbies.
  31. 1 point
    Bonjour, Si vous cherchez juste un adaptateur pour fixer l'optique ça marche bien sur mais ne compter pas utiliser l'AF c'est très aléatoire. Mais pourquoi mettre un adaptateur le tamron 150-600 existe en monture E
  32. 1 point
    Roy

    Whimbrel on the rocks

    From the album: Wildlife

  33. 1 point
    Roy

    Whimbrel on the shore

    From the album: Wildlife

  34. 1 point
    Roy

    Hoverfly 2

    From the album: Wildlife

  35. 1 point
    Roy

    Hoverfly

    From the album: Wildlife

  36. 1 point
    This is indeed the point I was trying to make. From what I gather (and looking at your photos) it seems like your current setup isn't holding you back but you're more interested in exploring new possibilities. If a new camera increases your interest in photography, your boosted enthusiasm will likely help produce more and nicer images. Looking at your photos though I'm pretty sure any (un)trained eye will have a very hard time telling if these were made with an APS-C camera or fullframe. Only in a side-by-side comparison of the same photo will experienced photographers be able to spot the slight difference.
  37. 1 point
    padam

    Sony IBIS construction problem

    https://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2020/06/the-great-flange-to-sensor-distance-article-part-ii-photo-cameras/ https://www.dpreview.com/news/0261142298/lensrental-discovers-cracked-sensor-mounts-inside-some-of-its-sony-a7-series-rental-fleet It will be interesting to see if Sony is going to give any kind of response to this. Since under light use, the cameras may not develop problems and it won't immediately affect the function of the camera (or the user might not detect anything), but the way it has been constructed is still worrying (and also weird, that the YT community hasn't picked it up yet)
  38. 1 point
    Benz3ne

    Should I upgrade to FF from APSC?

    Consider yourself followed (Benjour on there). The difference in results will be additional depth of field at a given aperture, higher ISO capabilities and, as you mentioned, dynamic range. The DR differences will probably not make a huge difference seeing as most of your shots are well exposed anyway, so having ability to boost shadows a little more or decrease highlights a little more won't be as valuable to you.The DR would be useful for your landscape shots, but you (again) manage absolutely fine without the need for it, plus you've always got bracketing in one form or another for reasonably static shots anyway. Being able to push ISO more is where I found the biggest difference going from APS-C to FF, albeit on Pentax before coming across to Sony. ISO 1600 on the K-70 was where I'd set my limit, with 3200 if I really needed it. On the K-1, and now the A7iii, I'd happily shoot at 2000 without much issue, 3200 is alright, 5000 is doable especially with noise reduction in post (through Topaz Denoise AI if Lightroom is struggling). For low light/B&W stuff I'll happily use 5000 if needs be. Yet to push it past that but have seen some reasonable results at higher ISOs (references unavailable sorry, not made a note of them)! Lastly, DoF. Again, it's nice for isolating subjects in the case of the odd flower photo you've taken but it's not something that can't be emulated to some degree through APS-C. i.e. shoot at a wider aperture on APS-C and you get more DoF, simple! For your longer shots it's probably not necessary to have it, because the DoF will be thin and you'd probably be shooting at a higher aperture for sharpness then anyway. Irrespective of all the above, you're VERY capable with what you've got - you could go for a FF and no doubt make the most of it, but you're nailing it with the A6400. The question above about 'where is your setup lacking' is the best question to ask yourself. Or wording it slightly differently, where is your current set up holding you back? If the answer is 'it's not' then no need to change unless, like me, you want new toys. The A7iv will give you huge detail given it's a 61mp sensor, but I think that's the only true benefit over the A9. I considered both but they weren't worth the additional outlay versus the A7iii which was a sweet spot for functions, cost and sensor size. 24mp is ample for internetting and medium-to-large prints so I don't need more.
  39. 1 point
    Taher Abouraya

    sony lens adapter

    It is true that you loose 1/3 of a stop which can be easily compensated. But, the AF on the EA3 is really very slow. I think you need to try both before you take a decision. I also have the LA-EA 1 and LA-EA2 for the crop sensor and the case is the same the EA1 is very slow when you use the SAM or SSM lenses or even manual focus in case you use the lenses that do not have an AF motor.
  40. 1 point
    Benz3ne

    Sony IBIS construction problem

    It'd be interesting to know what exactly has caused these fractures. If it's a case of a sudden shock, that will trigger people (such as myself*) to have their cameras checked out if they've dropped it at all... If it's stress over time, that's more concerning and wouldn't surprise me if there was push for a recall/repair scenario for affected cameras. *I managed to snag my camera strap on the drawer handle of a table which sent camera + lens to the ground. Damaged only the lens on the lens cap and outer rim at the front. Is an old Takumar 35mm to which a slight dent is the only obvious damage and the camera came away (very fortunately) unscathed. It's the first time I've ever put a strap on the camera, which I did 3 days prior to the tumble. Not fun.
  41. 1 point
    I am a hobbyist photographer and have been generally pleased with David Busch's (Insert Camera Model in title) Guide to Digital Photography series on each camera he tests for his manuals. They are easy to find information in especially after you learn his systematic approach with each camera model. I have the A77 manual on my Kindle (cost a small fortune for a digital file) and it just isn't the same thing from a convenience point of view.
  42. 1 point
    Ben

    The Crescent Nebula in Cygnus

    Hi, many forums and the "pros" once were certain that the star eater issue makes the Sony A7 Series unusable for astrophotography but I always had good results with my Sony A7rII. So I recently went ahead and had it astromodified. The thick IR-Block Filterglas was replaced with a thin Baader substitute that lets IR Light down to the h-alpha line and the sII line through to the sensor with high transmission. The results can be seen in detail on my google drive link here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SrdJ7tJbEUwN5KcbXsfpKaesq8KltzmY/view?usp=sharing I could write a lot of things that make the A7rII not the perfect camera for astro but suffice to say, it is still bloody capable. Cheers and CS, Ben - Instagram - AstroBin Technical stuff: Acquisition: Imaging telescope or lens : Meade SN-8 Imaging camera : Sony a7rII astro modified Focal reducer : TeleVue ParaCorr PLU1106 Filter : STC Cyclops Optics STC Astro Duo-Narrowband Filter Dates : May 28, 2020 Frames : STC Cyclops Optics STC Astro Duo-Narrowband Filter : 39x300" ISO640 Integration : 3.2 hours Darks : ~50 Flats : ~50 Avg. Moon age : 5.67 days Avg. Moon phase : 32.16% Bortle Dark-Sky Scale : 8.00 Processing was done with Adobe Lightroom Classic CC, Aries Productions Astro Pixel Processor APP and Adobe Photoship CC 2018. Stacked with sigma kappa clipping 3/1. Light pollution could not be removed automatically in A.P.P. and had to be done manually in Lightroom with local adjustments and a lot of fiddling. Both images have reduced star sizes with a minimum filter applied to masked stars. The masked stars color’s were also tweaked in order to bring them close to the feel of a normal broadband rgb distribution with colors between either aqua and blue or yellow and orange. I did however not manage to create a mask that includes the faintest and smallest of stars. If you look closely you see how the star colors are a little off, the smaller the stars get
  43. 1 point
    Alejandro Espeche

    Blue dress

    PPL With Sony A7R3 and Batis 85 CC
  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?

    Sign Up
×
×
  • Create New...