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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/20/2018 in Posts

  1. 3 points

    Blue hour in the Netherlands

    I took this photo during blue hour in Friesland (a province in the north of the Netherlands). Shot with: A7III + 16-35 F/4 2 photos - 10s - F/13 - ISO 100
  2. 1 point

    Why is there no 125fps in PAL?

    Hello everyone, I'm figuring out what settings I want to shoot with for my next video projects. I have the A7III and i'm in a PAL country and so I wish to use PAL, but NTSC just seems to give more frame rate options (24/30/60/120 NTSC vs 25/50/100 PAL). Now there is one thing I don't understand. For slowmotion, in NTSC you have a 5 times slowmotion (120fps at a 24fps timeline) versus 4 times slowmotion on PAL (100fps at a 25fps timeline). If the camera can shoot 120fps, it shouldn't be that hard to implant 125fps for PAL??? Does anyone know more about this? I would love to hear it! Best regards, Lars The Netherlands
  3. 1 point

    Boxing Day hunt meet

    I must prefix this by saying I am completely impartial in this and attended purely for the photographic opportunities the event offers. it is the Boxing Day meet held in Cirencester Park, and I wanted to try the A7iii + 70-300 f4.5 - 5.6 OSS lens for some action shots and it delivered perfectly, locking on and holding lock so I am very happy. The photos show the back of the Earl's and Countess Bathurst's house as well as the pouring of "The Port" and local views as well as some of the members of the drag hunt. Again please judge these from a photographic aspect not based on your views toward hunting. Thank you and enjoy.
  4. 1 point
    Preface by saying I rarely use flash. However I do have the Nissin i40 and i60 flashes and they work perfectly. You should start by going to the menu camera icon #1 page 11/14 "Flash". I use fill flash, flash comp 0 Exp Comp Ambient & Flash. Set my flash unit to TTL (left dial) and Exp to 0.0 (large right dial) Because these dials can inadvertantly be moved, I put a small white sticker on the dial for alignment at above settings. I like to use manual on the camera and experiment with different shutter speeds, aperture, exp. compensation to get a nice balance between ambient and flash lighting. This should get you started with some properly exposed images...after that you're on your own to explore the confusing number of adjustments you can make to your flash photography.
  5. 1 point

    Gymnetis tigrina

    Sony a6000 w/24 1.8
  6. 1 point
    Not an issue with your a7r3, but with the a7r2 the files drop from 14-bit to 12-bit in silent mode.
  7. 1 point


    Very nice shooting point, beautiful colors and trails of cars. Well done
  8. 1 point


    A blend of 7 exposures. Taken at pedestrian bridge crossing Federal Highway, at Subang LRT station, Malaysia. Took with A7iii with Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 lens. Headings by RICO Lee, on Flickr
  9. 1 point

    High-ISO and the a9

    Set the a9 to Auto-ISO today just to try it out. I was photographing active subjects (small birds) and the light-level was so-so. Set the exposure mode to M and dialled in 1/1000s at f9- I had the 1.4tc on the Sony 100-400. This is the result. A beautiful female Red-breasted Nuthatch at ISO 25,600! I performed a little NR on the background in Lightroom but nothing special with the processing. Hope you like it.
  10. 1 point
    I would call this a premature conclusion. There's a whole variety of different microphone types for different uses around. Unfortunately neither did you specify which microphone(s) you have tried, nor could I find any specification in the technical data ("audio" section) of your camera which type of microphone your camera requires. Note however, that Sony does offer several microphone adapters to connect external microphones to your camera, which are "sold seperately".: Just because a plug is mechanically compatible, i.e. 3.5mm minijack, doesn't guarantee that plug and socket are electronically compatible as well. For instance, 3.5mm jacks come in varieties of 2, 3, 4 or even 5 contact surfaces. See this for more details. How true. Maybe you can still go back to your dealer and ask for advice.
  11. 1 point
    An utterly cheap way to try, if this theory holds any water would be, to attach the camera directly to the gimbal, without the grip. You would very quickly find out, if this gimbal lives up to its touted performance. The external battery pack would then just add the additional operation time to the whole combination, if you find that the gimbal itself is worth the effort and extra expense. (I always try to keep financial risk low).
  12. 1 point
    I went from a6000 to a6300 then a6500 then a9. Fullframe image quality is much better. One thing missing from your list is battery performance. The new Z battery lasts considerably longer than the previous version., I’ve taken over 4000 photos on a single battery with my a9. I doubt you will get much resale value for the a6000, it may be better to keep it so you have a backup/second camera for your paid work.
  13. 1 point

    Considering switching from Fuji

    I own both Fuji and Sony systems. Not too long ago I invested more into the Sony and divested myself of a bunch of Fuji gear. At one point I had 3 Fuji bodies and 9 Fujinon lenses. Based on having used both Fuji and Sony on a daily basis, I wouldn't switch to Sony unless you really dislike using the Fuji system or have another compelling reason. As a full time professional my reasons for switching my emphasis to Sony were based on reliability and service. I wrote an article about it in PetaPixel. For the most peoples' purposes it would be a lateral move and can be expensive. I love the Fuji system and kept part of it but for most of my work I use the Sony system. The important differences for me are as follows: Battery life: Huge difference in favor of Sony. I've gone multiple days on one battery in my A7R III bodies versus an averag of 2-3 batteries per day on my X-Pro2 bodies Autofocus: I find the Sony more reliable and I love their eye-autofocus. Also I've programmed 2 buttons on the Sony so it's very easy to switch between AF methods without going through menus. BUT I understand that the X-T3 now also has good Eye-AF Ergonomics: This is personal but the Sony feels better in my average sized hands and I can shoot longer before my hands get tired. On the flip side of this I prefer the mechnical controls on the Fuji, especially having aperture rings. Pro Service: Fuji doesn't have one for their X-system which was problematic for me and Sony's is superb Custom setup: Sony has 2 positions on the mode dial for custom configurations that allow you to set a myriad of parameters. This is very convenient. On the Fuji it's a workaround at best and you're very limited on what you can put into their "custom" settings Other: Fuji's EVF is slightly better and I like their distance scale with DOF. Sony doesn't have that. The Sony menus are initially a bit of a pain but the camera is highly configurable. I think more so in practical ways, than Fuji. Lenses: Both systems have extensive and superb optics. I do thorough testing on every lens I buy. Overall Fujinon lenses are better but one has to look at that in context. In most real world situations they are essentially equal. I like the choice of zooms better for the Sony but Fuji has amazing primes and they are less expensive and more compact. Bear in mind if you want shallow DOF you have to get a faster lens in APS-C to equal one in FF. For example you would need Fuji's 56mm f1.2 to have about the same DOF wide open as a Sony or Zeiss Batis 85mm 1.8 on full frame...assuming this is of any consquence to you. The bottom line is all this stuff is personal preference and you need to chose a camera and lenses based on how you shoot and what you like to shoot. If you ask 2 photographers, you'll get 3 opinions so get what is right for you. I agree with others that you might want to try out Sony first by renting. Happy shooting, Joel
  14. 1 point

    Sony Customer Service and Repairs

    I've had nothing but great experiences with Sony service. I should point out that I am a full time pro and a member of Sony Imaging Pro Service so I can't speak to their service otherwise. I've had two items that needed service since I started using Sony a few years ago. The first was an A7 II body a couple years ago. They emailed me an overnight shipping label the day I called. I had the repaired body back two days after I shipped it- one day turnaround in-house at Sony and overnighted back to me. I didn't pay for shipping either direction. More recently I accidentally dropped a lens and the two rings on the front of the lens body broke off (glass and function/AF were fine). Again, overnight shipping label emailed to me within a few minutes of the phone call to them. They called me when it came in and said it would be 2 weeks for parts so they overnighted me a loaner lens until mine was repaired. In both these cases I wasn't without gear for more than a couple days. With the lens they tested everything before sending it back. I also tested it when it came back and compared it to my test shots from when I had bought it and the performance had actually improved. They must have made some adjustments. So very happy overall with Sony's service.
  15. 1 point
    I have quite the collection of Pentax lenses both film and APS-C as well as the K t0 E-mount adaptor. As Pieter said above, the only adaptor is the dumb one so really the only way they work with your APS-C lenses is wide open and manual focus. The adaptor works best with the older film lenses as even the A ones have the ability to change the aperture. Also none of the Pentax lenses have OSS as Pentax uses in body stabilization.
  16. 1 point
    There are some adapter for Pentax K to Sony E-mount (e.g. Fotodiox, Novoflex) but they are all 'dumb' adapters, meaning no electronic contacts between lens and camera. Focussing, aperture control, lens stabilization etc. will not work and your photo's will lack exif information about the lens used. If you don't mind all this then adapting your Pentax lenses is fine. In any other case better sell them and buy native e-mount lenses. You could probably keep a macro lens as macro focussing is usually done manually anyway, but that would mean you'll have to spend $ on an adapter which you could also invest in a new lens.
  17. 1 point

    Sunset at Santa Monica

    Handheld Pano from Santa Monica Pier this evening... Sony A7RIII FE 24 - 70 f/2.8GMSanata Monica Pano by singingsnapper, on Flickr
  18. 1 point

    Batis 40/2

    Hello, New to this forum as I just moved from Leica to Sony and loving it! I purchased the A7RIII with the 35 1.4. It is a awesome combo but the lens is a big to carry around. I saw Zeiss is coming out with the Batis 40/2 and looks promising. Anyone pre-ordering this lens?
  19. 1 point
    Problem Solved... After one month, Sony have got back to me and told me to quit drop box, Google drive sync, Lightroom CC, Capture 1... Basically I quit everything, from Adobe desktop manager to WD my cloud sync (got nothing starting with X, Y or Z) and it worked... Then spent an age turning everything back on, one at a time to find the culprit... Drum roll please... Drop box syncing was causing imaging edge to fail to see the camera, quit drop box it works, turn it on again it doesn't... Bit of an inconvenience, having to turn drop box off to allow imaging edge to play with camera, then turn it back on again when I've finished... But Hey Ho, Such is life...
  20. 1 point

    Good Adapter Plan?

    ` "Lens adapters cause misalignment, which can affect IQ. Even if the misaligment is microscopic, it can reduce sharpness in the image. Digilloyd and Lensrentals have tested it and written about it." Link to the article mentioned above: https://wordpress.lensrentals.com/blog/2013/09/there-is-no-free-lunch-episode-763-lens-adapters/ Too many members of the forum will read that Lensrentals has written about how ... .... adapters are hugely and totally useless .... without comprehending that it says they are totally useless for use on an optical bench, but failing to realize what that means. The adapters absolutely failed to be precise enuf to serve as an integral component of an optical bench. BTW they are also totally useless as hockey pucks. Both these facts are equally meaningless to photographers. Lensrentals does a disservice to the photo community by discussing optical bench use. Thaz like saying the drugs that save your life ... chemicals that are USP phama-pure, have absolutely and totally failed to be pure and precise enuf to be used as analytical reagents by research chemists. BTW that is generally the case. That is why chemicals come in three grades: Reagent, USP, and Industrial. Do not put industrial in your body. But USP is for USE in your Body. Reagent is waaaaay too pure and precise and costly to waste on human consumption. It is for research analysts, and must be ultra perfect so as to have no tiny trace element that will bring error into test reactions. Likewise an optical bench is a TESTING device, and so every element of it must be 99.999...99% error-free. True, adapters are not that pure. An Optical Bench is not for making actual photographs. It's for ultra accurate testing. IOW it needs "reagent" grade components, waaaaay closer to absolute perfection than the USP quality that you use on your body, IOW on your camera body. Adapters are not good for the devices that TEST lenses. They are quite suitable for devices that USE lenses to record images. This all spelled out in the linked story if you know how to objectively READ it.
  21. 1 point

    Chilly Foggy Bay Bridge

    I was hoping for a sunrise on a pre-dawn morning on a visit to the Bay Area. Instead I got a swarm of mosquitos and a foggy morning. I left disappointed, but back home I decided I liked the mood. Sony A7r2 - 8sec exposure, f/11, ISO-50 Sony 55mm f/1.8
  22. 1 point

    Moonrise at mountaineering camp

    a6000 Rokinon 12/2.0 ISO 1600 10 frames at 10 sec shutter speed
  23. 1 point

    Morning fog rolling in

    I went out to capture a sunrise. Instead I found this. Shot with A7RII, Sony 70-200 F4. Polariser and 0.9 softgrad filter. f11 1/1000 200m ISO100 Regards, Thomas Gesendet von meinem MHA-L29 mit Tapatalk
  24. 1 point

    Copenhagen - few pictures

    Nyhavn by Boris Krstić, on Flickr Colorful by Boris Krstić, on Flickr Nyhavn by Boris Krstić, on Flickr The View by Boris Krstić, on Flickr Copenhagen by Boris Krstić, on Flickr
  25. 1 point
    Hi, I have a Sony A900 and, more recently an A7R. I originally purchased the A900 soon after it was launched, as being the only affordable 24Mp full frame camera. Principally I use the 16-35 and 24-70 f2.8 Zeiss lenses and Sony 70-210 f2.8G lens. I also use wide aperture primes when they suit the application better. I mainly shoot weddings and events and use the A7R for landscapes with a Sony A mount adapter . Attached is a recent photo taken on the Isle of Skye with the A7R. John
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