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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/25/2019 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    Just picked up the teleconverter and have been trying out on my Sony 100-400. The results are amazing with super-sharp images being made wide-open. I am not detecting any difference in AF on the a9 either.
  2. 3 points
    The Eagle has landed... After some panic set in when the shipper switched from FedEx, where I was having the lens held, to UPS. A redirection to a UPS Store, was required, then finally the lens arrived! After a quick change of the tripod foot to the Wimberly and wrapping in a LensCoat, we were ready to go. Field reactions to follow...
  3. 3 points
    Aditya Kapoor

    Milky Way over the Maldives

    Its not just the sunny days and clear water that's unbelievable in the Maldives! Clear, pollution free skies provide a canopy of stars every night! #sonyalphagallery
  4. 2 points
    It is complicated. Sony is more complex than Canon (which I used for the past 20 years before recently switching to Sony.). Let me see if I can help. It appears that you are attempting to change the Shooting Mode, f-value or shutter speed while you are in Mode 1, 2 or 3 and thinking that this will remain. That is just a guess on my part. But I want to be clear, none of the changes you make to setting while in Mode 1, 2 or 3 will persist after you leave Mode 1, 2 or 3. That is not how you establish the "remembered" settings. I'll explain again how you establish the "remembered" setting values for Mode 1, 2 and 3 in a bit. But first let me make sure you understand what is going on when you are using these modes with an example. I use Mode 1 to setup my camera for Landscape. I have saved all of the setting values I want - INCLUDING shooting mode, f-stop, etc. in the Mode 1 memory. When I switch to Mode 1 all of those setting values are made to match what I had previously set using the Menu system as I explained before. THEN, while shooting I will often change the f-stop, sometimes the shooting mode, sometimes the ISO and sometimes I might switch to crop mode. These changes can be made with the appropriate dials or buttons or using the Fn menu. BUT, none of those changes I make while shooting are "remembered" or "saved" for Mode 1. If I want to save the current state of the camera for when using Mode 1, I need to again go to the Menu system and once again save the current settings for Mode 1. So once again, the ONLY way for the camera to remember the values of settings - including shooting mode, (and fstop and aperture and so on) is to have the camera in that mode, fstop and aperture or whatever other settings you want to be set before saving all the camera values to Mode 1 using the Menu system. See if that helps.
  5. 2 points
    Samy, first I highly recommend that you view the excellent videos posted on Youtube by Mark Galer. He has a specific one on saving the camera settings to the memory locations that correspond with the 1, 2, and 3 on the Mode dial. But let me briefly point you in the right direction. First, the numbered positions (1, 2, 3) on the Mode dial refer to memory locations where you can save nearly all of this cameras abundance of settings. It is a huge number of settings, not just 1. So I won't list them all here. Note, though, that it includes the "Mode" that was in use when you saved the camera's settings. For example, if you were in "A" mode when you saved the camera's settings for "1" then when you turn the dial to "1" the camera will be in "A" mode. When you switch to 1 or 2 or 3 on the Mode dial, you are resetting all of the settings in the camera that were in place when you "saved" to "1". This "saving" operation is performed by going to the first Camera menu, the 3rd page and the look at the second option from the bottom. But before you go there you need to make ALL of the camera settings exactly as you want them to be when you turn the dial to "1". Once the camera settings are saved to "1" (or "2" or "3") the next time you turn the Mode dial to that number ALL of the camera settings will be restored to the state that they were when you saved them. You can of course change the settings while remaining in the Mode. But once you turn the dial to A or S or M or P and go back to, say 1, all the saved settings will again be restored. You do not save settings for the numbered Modes simply by changing the setting while in that Mode. It must be done with the menu item I pointed out. And it will apply to all settings on the camera. This is a very powerful capability and I'll explain how I use it in just a moment. But first, I suggest not using the terminology "C1 or C2". In the Sony world, that terminology applies to the 4 customer buttons you can setup in various ways. (Again, I suggest you go through Mark Galer's video tutorials.) How I use Modes 1, 2 and 3. Since each of these modes applies to nearly all of the settings on the camera, I have arranged them for specific and very different types of shooting. I use 1 for Landscape shooting with a tripod, I use 2 for Action shooting (sports, wildlife) and I use 3 for Portrait shooting which I do very rarely. When I am just walking around I typically have the mode set to A and a lot of other things different. Here is how it works. The first thing I did is set up the camera - all the settings that were required - to the setting I want for Landscape on a tripod. Mode is set to Manual, Aperture to 9, ISO to 100, Steady Shot is turned off, Focus is set to DMF and so on. (I used Mark Galer's suggestions as a starting point.) Once the camera was set up the way I like for this situation then I go to the the Menu, Camera 1, 2nd page and near the bottom click on MR blah blah Memory. I am then presented with a confirmation screen for all of the camera's settings that will be saved. Assuming I agree with those setting I select the memory location from the choices across the top (1, 2, 3, etc.). (Ignore the M1, M2, M3, M4 for now). Then hit Enter and all of those camera settings are saved. Now that I have setup (for me) Mode 1 for Landscape, every time I want to shoot a Landscape/tripod shot, I simply switch the Mode dial to 1. I can trust that all the settings are the way I want - this includes being in Manual mode. I can of course alter them while shooting. For example I can change the aperture. BUT, the changes I make while shooting in Mode 1 do not change what is saved for Mode 1. Should I leave Mode 1 and them come back, all of the settings will be back to what I saved for Mode 1. So I am always at the same starting point. If I want to change a saved setting in Mode 1, I must save it again. (This is actually quite easy. Go to Mode 1 which resets everything to what was most recently save in Mode 1, then change the setting you want to "semi-permanently" save, then go to the Menu Camera1 operation that you did to originally save those settings and do it again. All of your settings will be saved again but because you only changed one setting only that one will look different when you go back to Mode 1.) Also note that if you are in Mode A for example and you go to Mode 1. When you return to Mode A the camera's settings will be put back to the way they were when you were previously in Mode A. In other words, once you leave Mode 1 your camera settings are returned to what they were before you entered Mode 1. It can seem complicated but once you get it set up it is awesome.
  6. 2 points
    Silverback

    Conspiracy theory?

    I am also a newbie on the forum and apologise for not introducing myself earlier. I have been using Sony Alpha Bodies for around two years and recently purchased a second hand A6000. I am thinking of going to full frame,so any assistance from the forum users would be greatly appreciated.
  7. 1 point
    This sounds pretty bogus. I don't think I'm sending my documents to someone else! And which store is Dizzy talking about. Something doesn't pass the sniff test here.
  8. 1 point
    UPDATE I went ahead and bought the cage anyway and low and behold it fit!
  9. 1 point
    FLHTC

    Unable to format an SDXC card

    Just an update, I finally updated the software on my Sony A7iii camera to the latest version and now the SanDisk cards that did not work in slot 1 before, now do work in slot 1. . Looks like the Sony software upgrade did the trick.
  10. 1 point
    bdrc

    Bright Sky

    Bright Sky by RICO Lee, on Flickr Single long exposure, whitebalance, colour tone and local brightness contrast adjustments done with Capture One; further processed in Photoshop for denoise and stacking up extra layer of same shot using colour dodge blend mode for emphasizing highlights. Tweak overall tone with LAB colour profile, and export. Sony A7m3 Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 FB: https://www.facebook.com/ASDgraphy/
  11. 1 point
    jrm

    a6400 video focus tracking question

    A follow-up to my own question, in the event someone else has the same issue. Touch track DOES work in 4k mode. Not sure why I couldn't get it to go. A Sony rep helped me out - ended up resetting the camera to default settings, enabled the necessary menu items and it now works. It may have been a related setting or just s glitch. Either way, it is working now.
  12. 1 point
    Strobotti

    Shot in the dark

    Couple of weeks ago I shot this photo with Sony A7III + Zeiss Batis 85mm 1.8 with the help of Godox TT685S: Also wrote a short blog-post about it, in case anyone is interested 👇 https://www.strobotti.com/article/2019-03-06/shot-in-the-dark
  13. 1 point
    Iansky

    The arrivals

    We recently had a number of B52's arrive at RAF Fairford in Gloucestershire, UK for a large NATO exercise. I managed to get some time over a couple of days to photograph some of the arrivals and it was windy on both days but still presented some good photos despite having to shot through the fence for some images.
  14. 1 point
    Phaethon

    Do you like snowfall?

    Sony A7 and Sony 28/2.0. Russia, Saint-Petersburg. Winter St. Petersburg by Ivan Pavlov, on Flickr Winter St. Petersburg by Ivan Pavlov, on Flickr Winter St. Petersburg by Ivan Pavlov, on Flickr Winter St. Petersburg by Ivan Pavlov, on Flickr Winter St. Petersburg by Ivan Pavlov, on Flickr Winter St. Petersburg by Ivan Pavlov, on Flickr
  15. 1 point
    414concrete

    Where is the new a9 firmware!!?

    This firmware is akin to getting a new camera for free. So, yes, possibly I’m acting like a child waiting for a present on Christmas.
  16. 1 point
    jakubik

    Saying hello from Chicago

    Hi all, I am a professional headshot photographer based in Chicago, IL. Recently switched to Sony a7iii from Nikon. Looking forward to chatting with some of you here.
  17. 1 point
    rtcary

    Problems with AF A6500

    I can understand your frustrations in gettingas new camera and not having the time to learn about it's many options. A few months ago, my wife and I were getting ready to leave for a trip in China, and I wanted something lighter than my Nikon D810 with it's heavy "glass" yet a little better than my Panasonic LX100 or Canon G1x. My daughter had a A6500 and wanted to sell it so she good get a A7iii -- I had very little time to learn the Sony's in's and out's. As I recall, there are around 100 settings -- took me a lot of time to learn the essential, however I set #1 on the selection dial to Aperture Prefered, ISO Auto and f/stop to 5.6. The #2 I set to Manual, ISO 400, f/stop to 8.0 and Shutter to 1/125 sec. The focus area I set to Expand Flexible focus. With those settings (if I used "M", I adjusted the settings to the conditions), I got over 2,000 images with hardly a miss. For many, I just held the camera at arms length over my head due to the crowds and got great travel pictures. Cameras been great so far... \rtc
  18. 1 point
    macpole

    PlayMemories App

    Thanks, it turned out I had to update this app
  19. 1 point
    Mikelian

    New Member in Manchester, England

    Hello all, new member to the forum but have been using Sony for the last 12 years or so. Started with 2 x a100 bodies with a 75-300 kit lens and a 70-400 G Mk 1. Moved onto 2 x a350 bodies about 4 years ago. Have had a couple of screens "go" on the a350's, so took the decision to upgrade. Have just been to collect 2 x a6300 bodies, along with a new 18-135 lens and a LA-EA4 e fitting to a lens converter. Mainly shoot wildlife in Kruger Safari Park, so looking forward to getting used to the new camera's and hopefully improving my results. Thanks for the time in reading. Mike '
  20. 1 point
    LiveShots

    PlayMemories App

    Is this what you are using? https://briansmith.com/sony-smart-remote-control-update-4-10-bulb-shooting/
  21. 1 point
    Pieter

    Sony A6000 high speed flash

    1/160 is the limit for normal flash, but high speed sync works with the Nissin i40. Make sure you set your flash settings in camera to high speed instead of front/rear curtain sync. I did have some trouble though with the i40 in high speed mode, as it would sometimes not perfectly sync with the camera. It would flash on exposure but the image sometimes came out totally dark or only the top/bottom half of the image exposed properly. Resetting camera and i40 usually solved this for the next couple of shots.
  22. 1 point
    LiveShots

    Sony A7 iii EVF AF-C mode shimmer

    I think there were issues introduced with v2 of the firmware that caused problems for IBIS on this camera, especially with 3rd party lens. IBIS moves the sensor, so if you see issues in EVF and the monitor then it is likely a sensor issue. My advice would be to reach out to the person with an a7iii that you mentioned and see if he has the same issue, or wait until the new firmware comes out and then test it out again.
  23. 1 point
    Cat99

    Conspiracy theory?

    Hello I can see that I’m one of those newbies you are referring to partly. I do apologise. I’m definitely real. I misinterpreted the the way in which the forum works. My questions were sincere but I should have introduced myself first. Thanks.
  24. 1 point
    Rogue_odyssey

    Spiritual moment in India

    Sony A7iii 24-105mm F/4
  25. 1 point
    DJ72

    f4 zoom vs 1.8 prime

    Hello All Just to let you know, last night I put an order in for the Sony A7Rii, together with the Tamron 28mm-75mm. Now I'm feeling guilty about all that money spent - but I had no choice! Thanks for the advice about the zoom/prime lens decision. DJ
  26. 1 point
    +++ BLACK AND WHITE SERIES WITH ALYSSANDRA +++ Just some black and white pictures with the lovely Alyssandra. I shot these pictures last sunday but i love it so much. Good Vibes and style everywhere. What do you think? [URL=https://www.digitalminds-photography.com/blog/265-black-and-white-series-with-alyssandra] [/URL] [URL=https://www.digitalminds-photography.com/blog/265-black-and-white-series-with-alyssandra] [/URL] [URL=https://www.digitalminds-photography.com/blog/265-black-and-white-series-with-alyssandra] [/URL]
  27. 1 point
    felipe

    Macizo del Gorbea desde Barazar

    Hola,salu2 de Felipe,... con la SONY A7III ƒ/11.0 70.0 mm 1/2000 800 1asoooi by freme_3, en Flickr
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
    Gjeest

    Blue hour in the Netherlands

    I took this photo during blue hour in Friesland (a province in the north of the Netherlands). Shot with: A7III + 16-35 F/4 2 photos - 10s - F/13 - ISO 100
  30. 1 point
    tinplater

    Sony alpha 3rd party lenses

    My experience with Sigma has been very positive. I would suggest you determine a list of focal length primes or zooms you wish to consider, then do some searching for reviews and opinions for individual lenses. There are many superb non Sony lenses available. Once you have arrived at a want list, then I personally would buy used on Ebay (where you can get a full refund, even if the seller won't accept returns) Remember that many of the non native lenses will be manual focus, that auto focus with non sony lenses can be problematic...so you have to do some research.
  31. 1 point
    alexphotos

    Sony RX 100 M5 (The blurred head)

    It's my new photo no self timer
  32. 1 point
    LiveShots

    Sony RX 100 M5 (The blurred head)

    I am guessing here, but I think the camera will focus on what it can see when you press the shutter button to activate the timer. But of course you are not in the frame at that moment. You can remotely trigger the timer using a iPhone or similar when you are in front of the camera so it will focus on you. This may be another option though I am not sure how this works : https://helpguide.sony.net/dsc/1630/v1/en/contents/TP0000818588.html?search=Timer
  33. 1 point
    Last post and I'm embarrassed to say this but deserve the shame. The lens was not on all the way. Needed some more twisting to click in. I noticed the auto focus was not working, twisted a bit more and now 10x better picture quality and everything works,
  34. 1 point
    felipe

    CASTRO URDIALES-CANTABRIA

    Hola,salu2 de Felipe 1AAAAAAAA by freme_3, en Flickr
  35. 1 point
    Hi. IMHO, the 85 f1.8 is one of the best lenses to own. It’s affordable, the AF is very fast, and the IQ is comparable with that of the GM (IMO). That’s the easy bit. Whether to offload the 50 and go for 35 purely depends on you. The only person to answer that is yourself because of your comfort in shooting at whichever focal length and how wide open you want it to be. For me, my go to length is 24. I find the 28 & 35 too tight for my comfort and only use the 50mm when I want to get close ups. It’s a personal preference. If it’s my decision, I’ll not sell the nifty because the resale value is really not great. I’d rather save up longer and get the 35 or the 28. Hope it helps.
  36. 1 point
    Many thanks - that instantly solved my problem too.
  37. 1 point
    SMO

    how do you manage many photos

    Hi, A7R3 is a good choice. Since you will be purchasing in a few days you need to ensure that the camera has the latest updates in both camera firmware and Lens software because new versions have been recently released. If you buy at a full service store, sweet talk them into doing it for you. If not, then you'll have to go to the Sony support site and get the instructions and download 2 pieces of software. If your MAC is 10.13 (High Sierra) or higher the first piece of software ("DriverLoader_1013") is required. If your Mac is 10.12 or earlier, then only the second piece of software is required. The instructions were hard for me to understand so I would suggest reading all the instructions with both pieces of software. I had to read them multiple times. On to your question about a filing system. I use Adobe Lightroom for basic file management and editing. I also back up my RAW (in my case I use DNG files) in an external portable 5GB drive. I also back up edited DNGs in the cloud. I would recommend probably one more place. Now, about workflow - in LIghtRoom you can import all the photos from your SD Card. Then you can use LightRoom to run thru them and pick the ones you want to keep. I then edit and update all the metadata and tags, in order for searching. LightRoom will offer A LOT of ways to organize your photos, so I'd recommend it as your main organizer. When I'm done selecting and editing, I then export jpgs of the DNG files for showing and upload them into my site. I back up everything including those I don't want to keep in my Google Drive (2TB for $10/mo). Due to your limited space, after you finish this workflow, you could remove your photos from LightRoom (and your computer). You'll have to find a workflow that you are comfortable with, so it will be a LOT of trial an error. I hope this helps a bit. There are certainly many, many people much more experienced and skilled than I to offer you advice. I would suggest searching these questions on youTube. You'll find many helpful videos. Good Luck
  38. 1 point
    This is a test shot using a Canon TS-E 17mm f4 tilt shift lens on my A7II body with the Sigma MC-11 adapter. I have to say I am very pleased with this combination. Having moved to Sony from a Canon 5DMk2 I think the Sony A7 series bodies are the dream combination with this lens. Focus peaking, focus magnification, in camera level indicator, tilt screen, grid line display....fantastically easy to use.
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