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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/28/2020 in Posts

  1. 4 points
  2. 4 points
    all: a7rIII, 600mm f/4 GM
  3. 4 points


    Here is a portrait of an Andean Condor (juvenile male), taken with a7R III, Sigma MC-11 and Sigma 150-600 Sport on the "camino de las altas cumbres", Cordoba province, Argentina And you can view it with more definition here: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49451148336_ea99a3577b_k.jpg
  4. 3 points
    Sony A9 2 with 200-600 lens.
  5. 3 points

    Wasp At Work

    A6000 w/24 1.8
  6. 3 points
    Hi, what I mean is that the bird always has to be in the center behind the flight direction but taking advantage of the best of the lens to get focus.
  7. 3 points
    In addition to the photographic merit, of course: as a biker, I like the way how this bird is doing a curved flight, yet keeping his head perfectly aligned with the horizon. Pretty much like motorcyclists do it, too. Image source: http://www.ridesmart.info/img/blogs/leaning diagram.jpg
  8. 2 points
    Alejandro Espeche

    Red & Blue

    A7R3 + batis 85
  9. 2 points
  10. 2 points


    A6000 w/24 1.8
  11. 2 points

    Tierra roja

    Hola,salu2 de Felipe IMG_21881 by freme_3, en Flickr
  12. 2 points
    Alejandro Espeche

    King of vultures

    I could never approach this bird before, photo taken in the Yungas Oranenses, Salta, Argentina. A7R3+FE100-400
  13. 2 points

    Zoom for sports / BIF

    Agreed, distance is the killer, taking photos of motorbikes heading into a wide corner, they were impossible to follow as they got closer. I could not twist fast enough to keep them in the frame for the last 1-2 seconds.
  14. 2 points
    Dendrocygna viduata R3 + 100-400
  15. 2 points
    King of vultures!!! R3 + 100-400
  16. 2 points
    Have to agree with Wally. I started photography with an a6000 and the kit lenses (16-50 and 55-210) some 5 years ago, on a trip to South America as well (Patagonia in my case). I'm not much of a wildlife photographer (Google will generally get you much better pictures of the animal you just spotted) but for whatever wildlife I encountered there, the 55-210 served my needs. Anything up to about 20-30 m away will be close enough, unless you want full headshots. I've since bought a lot of lenses and sold the 16-50, but still have the 55-210. It's just too small and light to be replaced by something big and expensive for the very occasional wildlife I shoot. If you experiment a bit more with photography and find the 55-210 to be lacking for your needs, you can always upgrade and sell the 55-210 at hardly any loss. If you were going on an African safari I might have advised you to get the 70-350 instead as you really need the reach there, but in South America you'll likely have the 16-70 mounted 90% of the time and the 55-210 will be good enough when the occasion is there.
  17. 1 point

    Wind Turbines waiting for Dawn

    Interesting thought! 8-) The mind may be waiting, while the body goes on with its monotonous activity. Very much possible, not only among wind turbines I'd say. Thanks for pointing this out.
  18. 1 point


    Hola,salu2 de Felipe 😏 IMG_3050 by freme_3, en Flickr
  19. 1 point
    Explanation of xml or sidecar files is here: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sidecar_file They are small enough that you should probably copy them over in case some video editing software needs them later. I’m guessing that the THBNL files are thumbnail images of your photos, not sure what to do with them. I usually import photos using CaptureOne and I don’t shoot video so can’t provide any more details on that.
  20. 1 point

    Restrepia Contorta

  21. 1 point


    The a9 is a beast.... The auto-focus latched on so quick with the 70-200 that I think all my shots were in focus. The only ones that missed were those where I could not put the focus point on the bike, as they were moving so fast.
  22. 1 point
    Wally The Confused

    Which Lens?

    As far as I know, this is the only lens, Sony advocates for video ? I have no idea, since I only do stills ! https://www.sony.co.uk/electronics/camera-lenses/selp18110g That should sort you out ! Good Luck WTC
  23. 1 point

    SLOG on Sony a7riii? Help?

    Sad that you feel the need for me to introduce myself to you (some random fuck stick stranger from Switzville). I came here to ask a question. Period. Learn to keep scrolling if you dont have anything productive to offer, you switz stinky lonely piece of fuck.
  24. 1 point

    SLOG on Sony a7riii? Help?

    K, thanks for wasting 10 seconds of my life with your insanely useless response.
  25. 1 point
    I'll go first.. shot with RX10 IV _DSC0396 by Dylan Nguyen, on Flickr
  26. 1 point
    My much preferred walk-around lens with my a7rIII is the Sony 24-105 f4 G. Consistent sharpness throughout the range, decent bokeh particularly towards the longer range, and plays well with with the a7rIII's autofocus and IBIS. A lot of plastic and the zoom action is a stiff but still an excellent value. I use it regularly both in urban and rural settings without problems. Is it small enough? Is it affordable? Only you can answer that!
  27. 1 point


    A6000 w/24 1.8
  28. 1 point
    Yes, I know, most people think Lens Hoods, are some sort of extraeneous techno junk. Yes... I know...... I hate them too ! .........However, in certain situations........They are neccessary. However.... In this photo, a lens hood, would make no difference ! The stars from the street lights, are in the center of your photo, not some flare, on an outer edge. They occur, due to the placement of all the lens groups, inside your lens barrel. I do not think, that they detract from the image, but that is just my opinion. To try & avoid this again, you will have to move around & take the photo from different angles, or use a different lens. Good Luck WTC
  29. 1 point

    Vizelex ND Filter Adapter

    Sounds like you have "focus peaking" enabled. There is a color setting and an intensity setting for this in the menu.
  30. 1 point
    I apologize for my English, I use Google Traslate and I sincerely believe that they should take my Wacom or teach me how to draw.
  31. 1 point
    Alejandro Espeche

    A7Riii, 200-600, BIF Issues

    Hello Chrissie I'm sorry for my late reply, I don't enter the forum much. I come from the world Nikon and Canon for nature, always with prime lenses. It is the first time I use a zoom for photography. My experience with Nikon was very good with the duplex D800 + 300 f4 still with teleconverter (always talking about BIF) and absolutely disastrous with the D810. When I sold all my Nikon equipment, I switched to Sony but in nature I bought the 7D Mark II with the 400 f5.6. It gave me a very good result. When I left the A7R3 I bought it, at first I used the 400 canon with a beautiful adapter (Metabones V) for birds perched but impossible for BIF. The thing changed with the FE 100-400, I can focus BIF of birds that fly between trees, those that just take off, to track the ones that I already hooked flying, even with very low contrast. Always use AF-C with focus by zones (the second in the list) always at the center. Never shot less than 1/1600 because fast. The OSS is always on but I guess it will get better when it's off, I don't know and I'm not going to find out. For me the secret of the BIF is to always focus one step before, keeping the bird in the back of the direction where one moves.
  32. 1 point
    That 600mm f/4 is amazing.
  33. 1 point

    Barrow's Goldeneye

    all: a7rIII, 600mm f/4 GM using camo netting for a blind
  34. 1 point
    Well, you sort of answered your own question. Rain forrest is dense woodland, not open prairie ! So yes, in dense vegitation, there is no point in a 350 ! You will be within 5 - maybe 10 meters, of anything you might want to photograph Also.. one point you did not mention... Weather proofing ! In Rain Forrest... it never rains gently..... no, it hammers down , like god is emptying his bathtub, with a bucket , right on your head ! So, weatherproof lens, or a readily available waterproof cover, for the whole camera. Ok, some do come with a clear plastic snoot, so you can take pics, in the deluges. Good Luck Oh and take waterproof clothes, like Gore Tex etc !
  35. 1 point
    For me the computer issue has deterred me from reviewing photos. Everyone's setup must scale proportionally. There's no point in having a new lens if you don't have a reliable setup to output store and edit your work on. Next up Sony GM 16-35.
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point


    Sony ILCE-7RM3 Sigma 150-600mm F5-6.3 DG OS HSM | Contemporary 015
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point


    Sony ILCE-7RM3 FE 100mm F2.8 STF GM OSS
  40. 1 point

    Nature (PATAGONIA)

    Hola,salu2 de Felipe 😏 A819 by freme_3, en Flickr
  41. 1 point


  42. 1 point

    Invierno en los PICOS DE EUROPA

    Hola,salu2 de Felipe 😉 13b by freme_3, en Flickr
  43. 1 point
    Lilac-breasted Roller skims the freshly burnt patch in search for a freshly roasted insect :-)
  44. 1 point

    The Redhead

    A couple shots of model @kaitimackenzie. Sony A7III with Sony 85mm f/1.8
  45. 1 point

    lens for landscape

    You might want to think about the Loxia 21 too. I think it’s a stellar landscape lens and great for astro too. I’m only an occasional landscape shooter but here’s some of my pics with that lens.
  46. 1 point
    Sony A9 with Canon 400mm F4 DO II and Metabones V adapter. (www.larrywongphotography.com)
  47. 1 point

    Zoom for sports / BIF

    Definitely so. From an engineering point of view: it's the angular velocity with which you would have to turn your head/camera to track an object, which is significantly different between the two. The sparrow has a size (length) of maybe 0.15m, yet can attain a speed of up to 60km/h! If you want to shoot the sparrow such that it covers the full width of your sensor, it should propably fly by no further than 1 m from your lens. Let's take 5m, which is more realistic. The Boeing 777 has a length of 273m and has a landing speed of 272km/h. You could probably shoot the Boeing from 300m away and still fill the width of the sensor. The angular velocity with which to follow the sparrow is 60km/h (= 17m/s) at a distance of 5m. 17m/s divided by 5m = 3.5/s. The angular velocity with which to follow the Boeing 777 is 272km/h (= 76m/s) at a distance of 300m. 76m/s divided by 300m = 0.25/s. (Note, that this is not the true unit of measurement, yet the relation between the two is unaffected. Actually one would have to divide by 2*PI to arrive at the unit "rotations per second")). So the sparrow requires at least the 15-fold angular velocity while tracking the bird, compared to the plane. And that's a benevolent estimation. It's probably much worse. Plus, tracking a tiny bird (little coverage of the sensor) against a cluttered background is much harder than to track a plane (huge coverage of the sensor) against a "clean" background. In a further addition: the direction of movement of a landing plane is very predictable, compared to BIF in the wild.
  48. 1 point
    sixzeiss and Jaf, Thanks for your guidance. As mentioned earlier I had opened aperture to "max", but also made other changes as well, so not possible for me to attribute improvements to which change. Using AF-C Wide, while turning off: face recognition, Lock On, and "expand flexible spot" seemed to really improve the speed of focus capture, and these three items plus wide open aperture taken in total have made a big difference to the speed of acquisition, and sharpness of focus. I like the idea of manual focus for stationary birds, but do find the "flexible spot (s)" to allow me to isolate the bird to the extend that auto focus works very well. Manual is certainly a "back up" that will deal with problematic situations, and I have taken your advice to turn peaking down to low, and color red. I've also customized a button to magnify, and find that very useful. Great forum - very helpful. Thanks!
  49. 1 point
    another shot with RX10 IV _DSC0134 by Dylan Nguyen, on Flickr
  50. 1 point


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