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Favourite Focus Settings


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After a year of shooting various subjects, I have settled on a few favourite focus settings for my a6000. I'm both curious about how other a6000 users would focus differently, and how other model cameras introduce improved functions. For example, the a6300 will perform Eye AF in continuous shutter mode.

 

First, I decided to use the memory settings for focus setups, and ignore other settings which are more easily set (i.e. shutter/aperture external controls. Therefore, all exposure values manual, and use starting values of my version of Sunny 16, which I remember as for following.

 

"hang 10" -- f10, 1/100, ISO 100, and AWB.

 

MR1--Portraits & Head Shots

shutter/drive: single

focus mode: single

focus area: zone

button: AEL set for Eye AF

settings: face recognition on, Lock on AF off, center weighted exposure

rational: When faces are clearly visible, face recognition requires wide or zone, its easy to move a large zone, its less work for the camera, its easy to zero in on an eye.

 

MR2--Partial Faces, Slow Moving or Predictable Subjects

shutter/drive: single

focus mode: automatic

focus area: movable spot, medium

button: n/a

settings: face recognition off, Lock on AF off, center weighted exposure

rational: When face recognition isn't reliable because faces may be obscured, some movement may ruin focus, focus needs to be set in a field of faces, the subject isn't a face.

 

MR3--Fast Moving or Unpredictable Subjects, Children, Isolated Subjects

shutter/drive: continuous, medium

focus mode: continuous

focus area: wide

button: Center button set for Lock-On AF

settings: face recognition off, Lock on AF on (but not shutter), multi weighted exposure

rational: When face recognition just doesn't apply, movement is all over the frame, the camera doesn't need help deciding what the subject is, the photographer is busy worrying about a lot of other things, decisions need to happen more quickly

 

For all the above, I sometimes use C1 to jump to manual focus, which doesn't time out on the zoom in, and C2 to cycle through the levels of zoom. The latter is important for manual, un-chipped lenses like the Samyang/Rokinon 12 mm and 35 mm (love those lenses).

 

Often times I stray from these settings, but these are my most common. For example, I shot a decent whale picture with a large movable spot on high speed drive and singe focus and set the spot up for where I wanted a whale to be in the frame, once it appeared, but could sill pan without loosing focus on the whale (I managed to get an iceberg in the same shot by moving right).

 

I have only been shooting for a year, so take my advice with a grain of salt, and be sure to add your own suggestions!

 

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All situations, back button ... which means 

there's little to no difference between AF-S 

and AF-C cuz I let go of the button as soon 

as initial focus is acquired. Unless acoarst 

the lens in use has no AF anywho. Simple 

is its own reward. Your approach involves

way too much programming for me. I don't 

mean I can't program devices, I just use a 

simple reliable approach. One size fits all.  

Your system is too "gear conscious" for my

taste. I suspect you very much enjoy your

gear. I prefer to ignore mine. 

   

All my cameras are re-programmed to my 

preferences. Nearly every control is away 

from its default. I have no reticence about 

extreme degrees of programming, but all 

my gear is programmed alike and I never 

change it for circumstances. That way all 

controls behave consistently regardless of

the shooting conditions. That facilitates my 

ignoring my gear while I'm using it. It hasta 

behave the same all the time so I can work 

by habit almost unconsciously. 

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Guest Jaf-Photo

Obviously, if it works for you, then it doesn't matter what anyone says.

 

I try to encourage people to make adjustments on the fly. That means reading the scene, deciding which image to take and then making adjustments. Boxing oneself in with presets seems to be the opposite of that.

 

I really don't understand only using manual exposure. There are so many ways you can work a reflective light meter before you resort to manual exposure. Often it's better to use the metering to get a neutralised exposure and then tweak it in post.

 

So, no I wouldn't use your technique or recommend it to others.

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We seem to agree that you use what best works for yourself. I've found some focus settings require more than one change and that, together, they are time consuming. The purpose would be to make adjustments on-the-fly, as you said, but more efficiently.

 

A preference for manual exposure, or not depending on tweaks in post, is a whole other thread, but this one is solely about preferred focus settings... I'm not sure if you even mentioned focus.

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Guest Jaf-Photo

I responded to the contents of your post. If you have been photographing for a year, I would suggest not getting stuck in one way of shooting. Constant practice and, above all, learning to control the camera intuitively on the fly, is very important. Never be pleased with yourself, be your own harshest critic. It takes a lot longer than a year to become good at photography.

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 For a new shooter, there is no need talking about the shooting techs. Maybe some stable models are their best way to shoot a great picture. But it is important to show your picture to others, talking about the shortcomings, and find the way to improve. We should know where is wrong and how to adjust it.Then we can make adjustments on-the-fly.

as a junior shooting fun, I would learn more from you guys here. Of course, camera accessories are significant too.

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Some of the responses here make a few big assumptions about my ability to use a camera, that I need to focus on learning other things, or whatever the heck you're getting on with. The purpose of this thread was to discover what focusing methods have been found successful by others, and to share a method of using my camera that has been successful for me: sharing focus techniques for the benefit of everyone.

 

So far the only comment is from one person prefers to use to use center spot (my assumption) back button, and further to working consistently with a variety of cameras. Fair enough, sometimes I do as well (now I am hesitate to even mention under what conditions).

 

If you prefer not to use memory settings to enhance your usage it is not necessary to add disparaging remarks. Likewise, you should be dismissive towards another photographers abilities because their preferences differ from your own--most of your assumptions have been dead wrong. You have no idea what my skill level is.

 

This is very discouraging from continuing to use this forum.

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Guest Jaf-Photo

Sometimes you don't get the response you want, but it may be the response you need. That's part of engaging with other people rather than keeping things to yourself. In your post you described a shooting method which included manual settings of ISO, aperture and shutter plus presets for focus type, area and buttons. That pretty much covers the setting you do while on a shoot. All comments here are constructive and made within the context of your first post. If you only expect people to confirm your opinions, the internet may not be the best place for that.

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Sometimes you don't get the response you want, but it may be the response you need. That's part of engaging with other people rather than keeping things to yourself. In your post you described a shooting method which included manual settings of ISO, aperture and shutter plus presets for focus type, area and buttons. That pretty much covers the setting you do while on a shoot. All comments here are constructive and made within the context of your first post. If you only expect people to confirm your opinions, the internet may not be the best place for that.

 

"I'm both curious about how other a6000 users would focus differently, and how other model cameras introduce improved functions." <-- That is not asking the Internet to confirm anything.

 

Memory settings are a starting point: they can be changed. I don't know why you're feel it so necessary to be ignorant about your P mode hang ups--this is a discussion on... wait for it...  f o c u s!

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I use the MR settings a lot. I have three setup, one for Sports/Action, one for Landscape and one for Portrait, I use them as a 'baseline' rather than a fixed setting; I switch to whatever Memory is more applicable, and then adjust from that baseline to suit the situation.

 

Hey, same here, and also as a starting baseline. Someone else suggested they boxed you in, or whatever. Maybe they don't realize the PASM is stored along with the other memory settings.

 

I used to include exposure settings in my M1-3, but found I was too forgetful to remember, so I left them all the same and just change focus/drive.

 

Ever use Eye AF much?

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Guest Jaf-Photo

The point is that the first post revealead some really convoluted shooting habits. So without an openness to discuss basics, there's no use to discuss focus within some narrowly defined comfort zone.

 

don't know why you're feel it so necessary to be ignorant about your P mode hang ups--this is a discussion on... wait for it...  f o c u s!

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Guest Jaf-Photo

Sunny 16 is a rough method for calculating exposure on unmetered film cameras. It's based on the fact that films had one or two stops of exposure latitude. So you could print from the film even if you got it wrong. On a digital camera, exposure is calculated far more accurately from several parameters such as the actual sensitivity of the sensor (rarely the nominal ISO) and the actual light transmitted by the lens (varies a lot by focal length etc).

 

Anyway, I'll leave you to your search for someone who will read from your cue card.

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I responded to the contents of your post. If you have been photographing for a year, I would suggest not getting stuck in one way of shooting. Constant practice and, above all, learning to control the camera intuitively on the fly, is very important. Never be pleased with yourself, be your own harshest critic. It takes a lot longer than a year to become good at photography.

Hey Jaf - you seem like a good guy trying to help. But, I understand the poster's frustration.  He asked for specific recommendations re his focus settings and you gave him a rather smug critique ending with telling him it takes a lot more than a year to become good at photography.  I've been a professional photographer for over 35 years (and am always learning). I know people who shoot amazing images right from the get go and others who shoot for decades and never improve.  I know you mean well but it seems to me that direct responses to questions which are respectful of a posters intelligence are more meaningful and encouraging.

 

After a year of shooting various subjects, I have settled on a few favourite focus settings for my a6000. I'm both curious about how other a6000 users would focus differently, and how other model cameras introduce improved functions. For example, the a6300 will perform Eye AF in continuous shutter mode.

 

First, I decided to use the memory settings for focus setups, and ignore other settings which are more easily set (i.e. shutter/aperture external controls. Therefore, all exposure values manual, and use starting values of my version of Sunny 16, which I remember as for following.

 

"hang 10" -- f10, 1/100, ISO 100, and AWB.

 

MR1--Portraits & Head Shots

shutter/drive: single

focus mode: single

focus area: zone

button: AEL set for Eye AF

settings: face recognition on, Lock on AF off, center weighted exposure

rational: When faces are clearly visible, face recognition requires wide or zone, its easy to move a large zone, its less work for the camera, its easy to zero in on an eye.

 

MR2--Partial Faces, Slow Moving or Predictable Subjects

shutter/drive: single

focus mode: automatic

focus area: movable spot, medium

button: n/a

settings: face recognition off, Lock on AF off, center weighted exposure

rational: When face recognition isn't reliable because faces may be obscured, some movement may ruin focus, focus needs to be set in a field of faces, the subject isn't a face.

 

MR3--Fast Moving or Unpredictable Subjects, Children, Isolated Subjects

shutter/drive: continuous, medium

focus mode: continuous

focus area: wide

button: Center button set for Lock-On AF

settings: face recognition off, Lock on AF on (but not shutter), multi weighted exposure

rational: When face recognition just doesn't apply, movement is all over the frame, the camera doesn't need help deciding what the subject is, the photographer is busy worrying about a lot of other things, decisions need to happen more quickly

 

For all the above, I sometimes use C1 to jump to manual focus, which doesn't time out on the zoom in, and C2 to cycle through the levels of zoom. The latter is important for manual, un-chipped lenses like the Samyang/Rokinon 12 mm and 35 mm (love those lenses).

 

Often times I stray from these settings, but these are my most common. For example, I shot a decent whale picture with a large movable spot on high speed drive and singe focus and set the spot up for where I wanted a whale to be in the frame, once it appeared, but could sill pan without loosing focus on the whale (I managed to get an iceberg in the same shot by moving right).

 

I have only been shooting for a year, so take my advice with a grain of salt, and be sure to add your own suggestions!

I agree with the poster who suggested back button af.  That does mean you can shoot continuous and release the button to hold focus at any point.  It takes some getting used to but really worth it. I never turn off face detection and wonder whether turning it off speeds up focus acquisition when faces aren't an issue.  Is that your experience?

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Some of the responses here make a few big

assumptions about my ability to use a camera, .........

 

DEAD WRONG.  

   

You announce in post #1 that you've only been 

shooting for a year. No one is assuming your 

shortcomings. You stated them ... not precisely 

but globally. Yearlings vary, but a yearling is a 

yearling. BTW, I read ALL 17 of your posts. All 

that you accused us of "assuming" about your

"ability" just happens to be accurate. So, chill

out and listen up. 

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... I've been a professional photographer for over 35 years (and am always learning). I know people who shoot amazing images right from the get go and others who shoot for decades and never improve.  I know you mean well but it seems to me that direct responses to questions which are respectful of a posters intelligence are more meaningful and encouraging.

 

I agree with the poster who suggested back button af.  That does mean you can shoot continuous and release the button to hold focus at any point.  It takes some getting used to but really worth it. I never turn off face detection and wonder whether turning it off speeds up focus acquisition when faces aren't an issue.  Is that your experience?

 

Hi billg414,

 

I really appreciate your all your comments (clipped for space only) and for your time to write them. You make a compelling case to reconsider back button AF. For a while this was my setup, and my limited choices in custom buttons on the a6000 forced me to give up AEL for Eye AF. So far Eye AF hasn't worked out particularly well (it seems to have finally lived up to its promise on the a9), so I'll likely have you in mind when I switch back someday. C1 and C2, by the way, were tied up because of some things I need working with a bunch of manual lenses I have.

 

The processor has a lot of work to do while focusing. My knowledge specifically related to the camera function in this respect is limited, but my IT background leads me to believe it most definitely would. This is also why I tend towards moveable area vs wide when it is on; the theory being that it has to concentrate on a smaller region and would therefore be faster.

 

For what it is worth, I do know that center and spot focus will override face recognition, and they're nearly certain to find something to focus on, so its just more work for the camera, and a slight distraction in the EVF.

 

Face recognition does work pretty good, when the DOF is greater than the length of the nose, like in 1/2 body shots. I recently did a long photo shoot, about two hours, and missed twice, at 1.8 for nearly all the shots. It would be terrible for head shots, getting the wrong eye and the like (that's why I'm trying out Eye AF for a bit). BB will probably end up being the way to go... (wouldn't it be great if memory recall could reassign buttons?)

 

I hope I continue to be learning after 35 years. Every new discovery is a joy as well as a reason to go back out and shoot again.

 

Thank you very much for your insight and skillful diplomacy. Happy shooting.

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Guest Jaf-Photo

Hey Jaf - you seem like a good guy trying to help. But, I understand the poster's frustration. He asked for specific recommendations re his focus settings and you gave him a rather smug critique ending with telling him it takes a lot more than a year to become good at photography. I've been a professional photographer for over 35 years (and am always learning). I know people who shoot amazing images right from the get go and others who shoot for decades and never improve. I know you mean well but it seems to me that direct responses to questions which are respectful of a posters intelligence are more meaningful and encouraging.

We all have our ups and downs.

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A yearling? Username, I'm tempted to prove you wrong, but, t

o be honest, you don't matter.

    

These are your words:   

 

"After a year of shooting various subjects, I have settled

on a few favourite focus settings for my a6000. ....... "    

     

And I really DID read all 17 of your posts. Yearling stuff,

even if it took you too many years to get there ....   

    

`

 

   

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Hi billg414,

 

I really appreciate your all your comments (clipped for space only) and for your time to write them. You make a compelling case to reconsider back button AF. For a while this was my setup, and my limited choices in custom buttons on the a6000 forced me to give up AEL for Eye AF. So far Eye AF hasn't worked out particularly well (it seems to have finally lived up to its promise on the a9), so I'll likely have you in mind when I switch back someday. C1 and C2, by the way, were tied up because of some things I need working with a bunch of manual lenses I have.

 

The processor has a lot of work to do while focusing. My knowledge specifically related to the camera function in this respect is limited, but my IT background leads me to believe it most definitely would. This is also why I tend towards moveable area vs wide when it is on; the theory being that it has to concentrate on a smaller region and would therefore be faster.

 

For what it is worth, I do know that center and spot focus will override face recognition, and they're nearly certain to find something to focus on, so its just more work for the camera, and a slight distraction in the EVF.

 

Face recognition does work pretty good, when the DOF is greater than the length of the nose, like in 1/2 body shots. I recently did a long photo shoot, about two hours, and missed twice, at 1.8 for nearly all the shots. It would be terrible for head shots, getting the wrong eye and the like (that's why I'm trying out Eye AF for a bit). BB will probably end up being the way to go... (wouldn't it be great if memory recall could reassign buttons?)

 

I hope I continue to be learning after 35 years. Every new discovery is a joy as well as a reason to go back out and shoot again.

 

Thank you very much for your insight and skillful diplomacy. Happy shooting.

I tried turning off the face recognition on my a7rii and it did seem a little faster for sports.  Thanks.

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