couple of questions

[krisvdvijver]

Hi,

 

I've shot pictures in "Vivid" but when I import them in LR, they look dull.  I'm using the lastest versions and updates of LR and Camera Raw.

Any idea?

 

 

thanks!

[jayteepix]

Did you shoot RAW only by any chance?

[krisvdvijver]

Indeed only RAW. So these setting only apply to jpg? Didn't know that. I thought LR might apply this to the RAW as well during import.

[jayteepix]

Indeed only RAW. So these setting only apply to jpg? Didn't know that. I thought LR might apply this to the RAW as well during import.

They only apply to JPG as you have discovered. The LCD/EVF image you reviewed probably looked just the way you wanted as it is a JPG preview and indeed if you shot RAW + JPG the JPG would look great. However RAW is just a pile of binary data and you need your PP program of choice to recognise the RAW / Camera Model / Lens etc.

[krisvdvijver]

Thanks for the info!

 

I could be wrong, but for some reason, I have a feeling that my RAW images from the A7rII look more basic/dull then the RAW images I had from my Nikon D700.

In other words : that I have to do much more correcting on the Sony RAWs then on the Nikon RAWs in LR.

Could this be correct?

[dclark2171]

When switching from Canon, I found SONY raw to be cooler and less contrast than Canon. The Adobe Standard profiles in LR are not great. I use these http://www.colorfidelity.com/ and get a little more pop. 

 

You can always do a custom profile with Colorchecker or adjust to suit in LR and make that the default profile when importing. Every manufacturer has their own "look" when it comes to raw. I found Canon too red-warm for my taste and had to back off temp and saturation. The opposite for Sony. 

 

Google: "Sony raw lightroom color" and you'll find lots of threads with helpful hints

[VTC]

Shooting RAW + JPG should bring you no problems. If the JPG is too crass you can always go to the RAW to create an unmolested JPG.

 

I caution people when shooting 'special effect' profiles. For example if you use BW / water color / retro photo in camera without a RAW component to fall back on you can never take it to color. It's like getting a tattoo. You may think it's smart today to shoot in Retro-Pop-Infrared but you're locked into that look for perpetuity. Shoot normal then go Retro-Pop-Infrared in your editor. Years later you'll avoid the WHAT WAS I THINKING? slap to the forehead experience or maturity usually brings later on.

[Andrzej Tokarski]

In case you don't know about it yet:

 

In the develop module of lightroom you can scroll all the way down to "Camera Calibration". If you change the "Profil" from "Adobe Standard" to "Camera Vivid" you should get pretty close to what the camera is displaying in the vivid profile.

[krisvdvijver]

Wow, I learned a lot here,  I honestly never paid much attention to this when I had the Nikon RAW files in LR.

Sony RAW needs a bit more work apparently.

 

Thanks guys!

[Guest Jaf-Photo]

Another tip is to start with the Camera Neutral profile. This reduces saturation and contrast to a good starting point. This will give you more latitude with all the picture controls.

[Username]

Another tip is to start with the Camera Neutral profile.

This reduces saturation and contrast to a good starting

point. This will give you more latitude with all the picture

controls.

   

+1  

   

I go a bit further to get easily manipulated jpegs. I 

alter the Neutral picture style to be less saturated 

and less contrasty. I don't care that a SOOC jpeg 

looks kinda muted. I shoot for reworkable images 

but avoid raw, unless absolutely necessary. Lazy 

me, but it really works for most images :-) YMMV.

[tinplater]

+1  

   

I go a bit further to get easily manipulated jpegs. I 

alter the Neutral picture style to be less saturated 

and less contrasty. I don't care that a SOOC jpeg 

looks kinda muted. I shoot for reworkable images 

but avoid raw, unless absolutely necessary. Lazy 

me, but it really works for most images :-) YMMV.

Excellent!  I really find it hard to wait for the RAW import conversions.  Do you import with a preset?

[JimmyD]

The raw files do a better job of preserving Sony's wider dynamic range.  As noted above, you can always go to jpeg to reflect the settings you have in place for color, contrast, etc.  But for PP work with raw files, much easier to add color / contrast as needed than it is to try to recover blown highlights or dark shadows when the original raw file is too contrasty.