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Unsharp images from A3000 using self timer and studio strobe


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Hi, I'm flummoxed and am looking for an answer.

 

I've recently been attempting to shoot some studio self portraits and am using an A3000 with either the 18-55 or 55-300 lenses. I've got it tied to a single 400ws monolite studio strobe and have tried connecting with both a wired and wireless trip system. I'm producing enough light to have my settings at 1/80 and f22 in the Manual mode. In all cases I've got the camera on a tripod and using the 10 second self timer to shoot the images. My image settings are Fine/RAW and I've tried every AF mode setting available.

 

All of my pictures are coming out extremely soft, no matter what I try. I even tried to shoot something else holding the camera and not using the timer; they were soft too. The only sharp photos I can get is with the onboard flash - which is not giving me the look I desire - or no flash; both in one of the Auto modes (haven't tried this in Manual mode).

 

Can anyone give me any insight as to what I'm doing wrong or if there's an inherent problem using off camera flash with the A3000? Honestly, I can't remember the last time I used it with flash and if so, whether the results were as desired. 

 

Thank you.

 

Marc

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  • 4 weeks later...

Could the f/22 have anything to do with it? Due to light diffraction at such a small aperture setting, your images will likely come out soft. With your on-camera flash / no flash you won't have enough light to shoot at f/22. Due to Auto-mode your camera opens up the aperture, increasing image quality. Try shooting at f/8 - f/11.

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Guest Jaf-Photo

Pieter is correct. The f22 aperture is to small. These two lenses are quite useful, but neither of them is very sharp even at optimal settings. The 18-55 is the sharper lens, but that is mainly in terms of edge sharpness. The microcontrast is still quite low, which means you will miss some fine detail and texture.

 

Try shooting between f5.6 and f8, that's usually the sweet spot for most lenses. This means reducing the power of your flash. Also, consider getting a dedicated portrait lens. The Sony E 50mm f1.8 is actually a big leap in terms of portrait quiality photos. Naturally, there are more upmarket options but the basic 50 is actually a very nice lens.

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All valid advice so far, but the OP uses the term 

"extremely soft". If "extremely" is not just gross 

exaggeration, there's gotta be a problem beyond 

just diffraction at f/22 and the use of a less than 

stellar zoom lens. Such flaws are not "extreme".  

   

He gets sharp shots with the pop-up flash. That 

avoids f/22 but it's still the same kit lens, so use 

of "lesser" optics is not the problem ... and that 

leaves only the f/22 diffraction to blame for what 

is described as "extremely soft" images. I use 

the tiny apertures now and then. The resulting 

images will fail the "peep test", but "extremely 

soft" ? No way. Something more is wrong here. 

Maybe something technical, or maybe just the 

description as "extreme". Sample pix coming ? 

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Guest Jaf-Photo

It's possible that the AF locks on to something else than the OP's face. Face detection AF should fix this. Also, hooking the camera to a monitor via HDMI might help determine wehere AF is at. Not sure where the A3000 is in terms of capabilities here.

 

Still, the 1/80 f22 setting is all wrong and needs to be fixed. It should be in the region of 1/160-250 and f5.6-8.

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It's possible that the AF locks on to something else than the OP's face.

Face detection AF should fix this. Also, hooking the camera to a monitor

via HDMI might help determine wehere AF is at. Not sure where the

A3000 is in terms of capabilities here.

 

Still, the 1/80 f22 setting is all wrong and needs to be fixed. It should be

in the region of 1/160-250 and f5.6-8.

    

I have an a3000. It's a ridiculously basic camera, as alphas 

go. IIRC it's only connector is mic input .... or maybe USB, 

but certainly no HDMI or WiFi. You can't even set up BB-AF. 

   

Has very limited features. Don't recall if it has Face Detect 

cuz I always use it with legacy lenses on a SpeedBooster. 

It does have an EVF or I would not own it in the first place.

If I need advanced features I'll use another body, so I really 

can't quickly recall what it can do ... other than basic photo, 

which it does quite well enuf ! 

   

It's a good choice for studio strobes in that were the strobes 

to damage it, same as with a Dixie cup you just toss it. But 

do save the lens ... cuz it comes with the earlier kit zoom,

not the newer collapsible PZ. 

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Guest Jaf-Photo

The 18-55 is twice as good as the 16-50 so that's a good deal. I used the 18-55 a lot on the NEX-7 and it always delivered. Well, well. With a small aperture, there's always the option of manual prefocus. Just put a stand, tripod or whatever where your head will be and focus manually on it using focus magnification. That should eliminate focus issues at least.

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Guest Jaf-Photo

Hey, wait. I missed a clue. You use the self-timer? That means the lens focuses on whatever is in front of it when you push the button. If you're leaning forward or standing next to the camera, focus will be way off. Again, I dont't know the capabilities of the A3000, but using an app or a remote to trigger the camera is the way to go. Don't use a delay, though because you will move between focusing and tripping the shutter. If you can't trigger remotely use manual prefocus as described above. The rest of the advice above is still valid, too.

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