Using DX Lenses

[MikeOfBonsall]

Can you use Nikon DX lenses with cropping turned OFF so you get a full 35mm image but with vignetting?

 

I have a DX 18-200mm that I'm hoping to use with my A7 coming tomorrow. Any advice or suggestions like should I shoot if possible with cropping OFF and then crop in post?

[Username]

yes, yes, and yes.

[MikeOfBonsall]

yes, yes, and yes.

 

Thanks for the encouragement but it seems to be no, no, no!

My DX 70-200 has no manual aperture adjustment and stays at f/16 until the passing of time. The Metabones can do nothing to help.

[Username]

Thanks for the encouragement but it seems to be no, no, no!

My DX 70-200 has no manual aperture adjustment and stays

at f/16 until the passing of time. The Metabones can do nothing

to help.

  

OK. I just went and looked at an 18-200 DX [only DX

on hand ATM] which lacks an aperture ring BUT ... it 

still uses a mechanical auto iris lever. So with such a 

lens one needs the adapter that feature a manual 

iris control ring. Such rings are marked not in f/stops 

but simply in consecutive numbers, so you know how 

many stops away from wide open you are setting. 

[MikeOfBonsall]

I might just jam a matchstick in there to keep the lens at f5.6 and expose with ISO. What you think of that? The resale value of this lens is only about $200 so silly not to try to use it if I can.

[Username]

I might just jam a matchstick in there to keep the lens at f5.6 and

expose with ISO. What you think of that? The resale value of this

lens is only about $200 so silly not to try to use it if I can.

   

The adapters with the iris control are not in the same 

class or price range as the Metabones. For $40 +/-, I 

just can't see stuffing anything into the lens's action.  

   

The Iris control does work, despite a rather trashy 

feel to it. The lens latch is sloppier than the one on  

the Metabones. It won't let go, but there will be just a 

little rotational play. Also the rear flange is will not be 

chromed brass but simply machined directly onto the 

same hunk of aluminum from which the adapter body 

is machined. 

   

Forget the resale value of the lens, but  please don't 

think I suggest ignoring value and cost. If you will get 

about $40 use-value [basically images accomplished] 

from the adapter, get it. Otherwise cash out the lens 

if you have no other use for it. 

[VanveenJF]

F.Y.I. I use all my old and new nikkor lenses on the A7ll...mind you I am using a "cheap" but very good K&F Concept adapter. G version.

Aperture works great on ALL lenses. Not sure why people ever, ever, (pay big bucks) get a Metabones adapter.

 

You have to watch the focal distance. on my Tokina 12-24 I can only go from around 18 till 24

[Username]

............ I am using a "cheap" but very good ..... adapter. ........

Not sure why people ever, ever, (pay big bucks) get a Metabones   

............

Cuz $75 dollars is not big bucks for a better adapter. I  

did use a non-Metabones for a coupla weeks and it did 

work quite well. But the Metabones addressed all of its 

shortcomings. Fortunately I never actually owned that 

first adapter, so I never hadda pay for my own mistake. 

I payed only once ... for the Metabones.   

    

But, I know eggzacklee how you feel. I myself cannot 

imagine why anyone would pay more than double the 

price of the Metabones to get the Novoflex ! 

[tinplater]

I payed only once ... for the Metabones.   

    

But, I know eggzacklee how you feel. I myself cannot 

imagine why anyone would pay more than double the 

price of the Metabones to get the Novoflex ! 

I have owned two metabones (II and III) and one King ($79) and the King equals or in some cases outperforms the Metabones (faster auto focus with my 28-70 2.8).  In my opinion they are far over priced, although I got III for $125 on Ebay.  There is no real improvement in III vs IV other than "flocking" the interior which might improve the performance shooting into the sun.  Again I kept the cheapo, sold the overpriced bones.