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How to Activate the OLED on Batis 85


b2nyc
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The display mode can be changed by turning the focus ring 360° beyond the infinity position (counterclockwise facing the rear of the camera/lens).

 

There are 3 different modes:

 

- ON always on

- MF on only in manual mode

- OFF 

 

Mine is always off, by choice.

 

Out of interest, why?

 

I have the 25 f/2 and I have the display ON full time especially because of the very useful hyperfocal information it gives.  

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Out of interest, why?

 

I have the 25 f/2 and I have the display ON full time especially because of the very useful hyperfocal information it gives.  

 

I once met a guy who told me that everything within the hyperfocal limits was going to be "sharp". I could not convince him that only one plane will be „sharp" (assuming the subject and the camera do not move). Everything else, in front of or behind that plane will be less sharp. A little bit less sharp when close to the focus point and less and less sharp the further you get from the focused object.

 

The limits of the  stated hyperfocal space depends on what limits you set for sharp. I notice that the limits shown on the Batis are much reduced compared to what Leica shows in their printed tables.

 

We all know (?) that the depth of the sharpness area increases as the aperture gets smaller (larger numbers). With this in mind, that is all I need to know in order to judge what sharpness area I will get with a given aperture. I generally shoot at f/4 or larger apertures, and that makes life easier, at least in this context.

 

From time to time I do some test shots to make sure my judgement is realistic. Here are some test shot I made for that purpose a few days ago. (Sorry I could not put them right here, uploading here has too strict size limits.)

 

https://500px.com//nix-pix/sets/hyperfocal

 

The apertures were (from left to right in the overview) 1,8 - 4,5 - 1,8 - 4,0  with an 85mm Batis.

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I know how hyperfocal focussing works, and we all make the same decisions when focussing.  It's all about acceptable sharpness.  Some articles on the web have been discussing this and all the other theories are variations on the same theme.  The only way to get true sharpness across the whole frame is to focus stack.

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