Jump to content

Gallery of shots with the sigma 19, 30, 60 mm


taojones
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi if anyone is interested in how these lenses perform on a6000 here is a link to a gallery of shots. Unfortunately the exif doesn't show. I find the lenses to be great value and extremely good output. I have the sigma 35f1.4 and these lenses are nearly up to it in sharpness.

http://taojonesphotographer.com/70445/5176215/gallery/sony-a6000-sigma-19mm-f28-30mm-f28-60mm-f28

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, that's an amazing set! Shows well the capabilities of these lenses and the camera. Not to mention the skills of the photographer. :)

 

Just one small complaint. On a few images in this set exif says Sony 50mm/1.8 OSS, so it's not all just the three Sigmas. (Exif shows if you right click and have an exif viewer plugin installed)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, that's an amazing set! Shows well the capabilities of these lenses and the camera. Not to mention the skills of the photographer. :)

 

Just one small complaint. On a few images in this set exif says Sony 50mm/1.8 OSS, so it's not all just the three Sigmas. (Exif shows if you right click and have an exif viewer plugin installed)

I thought I had weeded them all out. I think I have fixed it now and took out the ones that could of been shot with the 50mm. 50mm is a good lens but the sigma 60 is a lot better and it gives that 90mm reach. Thanks Miran

Link to post
Share on other sites

great postprocessing! I would love to look over your shoulder while you're doing one!

and great pictures of course! :)

Hi Seb, here is a link to download a preset I made in LR. It is pretty simple I use it on import you will see the changes in the main section and also the detail section. Once the images are loaded I usually hit auto to see what it does, maybe open the shadows and drop the blacks and lift the whites. I check for clipping in both. I sometimes lift or the darken the image with the dark curve slider.

This is how I get my effect I will use the clarity brush on certain parts of the image I want you eye to go to, not faces though. I will brighten and darken certain colors in the HSL section, as I shoot usually 2/3 to stop over the brightest point of the subject.You need to experiment with shooting to the right. I shoot in raw this doesn't work in jpeg. I also watch the histogram in the view finder. I also shoot with back button focus in AF C with spot metering usually.

Example say I had a musician shot I would run the clarity brush over his guitar, clothes and hair. I will also run over things like stage scaffolding anything to make the image pop. I will darken the background color via HSL. So I carefully select certain parts of the image I want you to see. it sounds alot but I can do all this in a minute or two.

I hope this helps. Let me know how you go, cheers tao

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2FSqgTLu10RV1lkODYyOGZTblE/view?usp=sharing

Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow - there are some amazing shots to see! And it seems that the AF of the A6000 is fast enough to capture fast action ... ;-)

Thanks Swimmer, I have had no problems with the AF focus in action shots. I have all my cameras set  to back button focus which I think is a must if you do action shots. I also shoot center point and usually in spot metring.

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Hi Seb, here is a link to download a preset I made in LR. It is pretty simple I use it on import you will see the changes in the main section and also the detail section. Once the images are loaded I usually hit auto to see what it does, maybe open the shadows and drop the blacks and lift the whites. I check for clipping in both. I sometimes lift or the darken the image with the dark curve slider.

This is how I get my effect I will use the clarity brush on certain parts of the image I want you eye to go to, not faces though. I will brighten and darken certain colors in the HSL section, as I shoot usually 2/3 to stop over the brightest point of the subject.You need to experiment with shooting to the right. I shoot in raw this doesn't work in jpeg. I also watch the histogram in the view finder. I also shoot with back button focus in AF C with spot metering usually.

Example say I had a musician shot I would run the clarity brush over his guitar, clothes and hair. I will also run over things like stage scaffolding anything to make the image pop. I will darken the background color via HSL. So I carefully select certain parts of the image I want you to see. it sounds alot but I can do all this in a minute or two.

I hope this helps. Let me know how you go, cheers tao

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2FSqgTLu10RV1lkODYyOGZTblE/view?usp=sharing

 

 

Wow, thank you very much for the file and description! Can't wait coming home and try it out.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

Do the Sigma lenses allow for all the different focusing options such as zone, wide, eye focus, etc. I know adapting Canon glass on my A7ii won't allow for certain things. I just picked up an A6000 as a travel rig and wanted to find this out.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow Jones, those are some amazing photos! You've got a talented eye and after some post those images really stand out, so it's nice to look at them. Went through your gallery and like the other ones as well.

 

Of those 3 Sigma lenses which do you think you use the most, or like the most? I'm eyeing a 30mm one as I have the Sony 50/1.8.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...